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HELP! '94 2.2 Litre Honda Accord Engine

HoytBows

HoytBows

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Ex-Michigander, now Elizabeth Colorado
I need help from somebody who knows this motor pretty good. I'm burning about 1 quart an oil an hour!

Ok the car is mint with 114k miles. I bought it from an older couple, so I could use it for a gas saver. They were the original owners and were very serious about taking care of it.

When I got it I went through a few things and to do a tune up. I found there was oil in the spark plug wells. I got a new valve cover gasket kit and replaced all the o-ring seals with little issue. If anybody is familiar with this motor, they will know what I did. I had to remove the assembly that sits above the cam shaft that the valve arms run off. (I'm not sure what the actual name is) But it all seemed to go off without a hitch. Except that when I ran it, I was smoking and burning oil like crazy.

Now at first I thought I was burning oil out of the cylinders that got in there when I pulled the old plugs, but then it didnt stop. And I'm not talking a little smoke, people on all other sides of then intersection cant see after I take off.

When the car gets hot it seems to smoke less. (I think the cat is burning most of it up?) IDK Always seem to smoke less when the engine temps are warmer

When I coast down hill for a bit, and then hit the gas it blows a HUGE cloud.

At first it really acted like valve seals, but its worse than that. That, and this thing did not smoke AT ALL before I tore into it.

I dont know what in the world I could have touched or wrenched on that would allow oil to get inside the cylinder. I didnt tear anything down that far. I have to tear into it again. I dont know anything about the motor really, but this doesnt make sense to me.

Can anybody help?

I love when my I make more work for myself!:mad2:
 
Did you use rags or anything when you did the job? If a rag or shop towel got left in the valve area when you put the valve cover back on, it could plug off the oil drains and trap oil in the valve cover. Or the baffle in your valve cover came loose, and the only other idea I have is that maybe you didn't get the shaft assembly torqued down evenly and it is spraying oil out and going into the PCV that way. First thing you have to do is find out if it is coming through the PCV or breather. Take the PCV line off at the intake and see if it is full of oil and do the same with the breather hose. This will tell you if it is coming through the PCV or breather. Your going to have to go through process of elimination to see where it is coming from.
 
First things first, pull the PCV line off at the intake and see if it is full of oil. If it is smoking like you say, there should be a noticeable oil trace somewhere.
 
Is it hitting on all 4? Hit/broke a valve from sticking or bad adjustment? Looks like this job is getting redone to see what went wrong.

Spark plugs may need to be cleaned or replaced. The cat may suffer by melting down or plugging with all the oil. Next emission test may fail due to a contaminated from oil additives cat.

You didn't reach for the diesel nozzle out of habit and shove it in the tank of something with spark plugs did you? :hihi:
 
I dropped the hoopdy off to a mechanic buddy thats real good with Hondas. I flat didnt have time to try to fix whatever I screwed up with all the construction at my house and work.

I over torqued the rocker assembly. Stretched the bolts and screwed it up pretty bad. I had a suspicion that my torque wrench was not right and out of zero but this confirms it. When that happened it warped the arms which in turn were not properly aligned over the valves. The intake valve to the #3 cylinder is right next to an oil port, which was basically dumping oil right into the #3 cylinder. Thing is, when I put it back together, it all looked propertly aligned, but it wasnt.

Good news is that my guy found a new rocker assembly at the junk yard and its not really a huge deal to get it right.

Anybody know how to re zero a torque wrench an make sure its accurate?
 
"Anybody know how to re zero a torque wrench an make sure its accurate?"

Send it back to Snap-on or the tool vender you got it from. For $65 or so they will recalibrate it. There are a couple of shops that also can do this. It takes a calibrated device to make sure yours comes back accurate. Not a do it at home at all! It may need some repair. For stuff that matters like airplanes you need to do this every year.

Did you grab a lug nut and click your wrench a few times before putting it on something important?
 
Yup, every two years is what most mfr recommend for recalibration. Also remember to reset to lowest setting after each use. The more stable temperature it is kept in the better. Any good tool truck guy can get it done for you.
 
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