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Hard hot start causes

No Pain. No Gain. :) I honestly don't know of any other way of ruling out the IP. I have a new IP in my work truck and get an IP code, I'm too lazy too check it out;)
 
The whole thing just doesn't make sense to me. Maybe I have a wonky wire harness but intermittent stuff is hard to find. I do have another IP harness that appears to be in pretty good shape, I could try swapping that one in once I get the manifold back off
 
So you blocked the return path through the lift pump and pressure drops. The Raptor may allow return fuel flow when it shuts off. Eliminated.

I recall reading there is a check valve on the outlet to return line of the DS4 that is supposed to hold 6psi. Maybe swap just that?
 
Well IPs off turns out my spare wiring harness was at least one wire different, so I didn't try it. Going to take it to the pump shop first thing in the morning
 
WarWagon said:
So you blocked the return path through the lift pump and pressure drops. The Raptor may allow return fuel flow when it shuts off. Eliminated.

I recall reading there is a check valve on the outlet to return line of the DS4 that is supposed to hold 6psi. Maybe swap just that?
Click to expand...
So I talked to the pump shop about the check valve on the IP they said it wasn't a true check valve and weren't surprised that the pressure dropped.
When I pulled the FFM it was still full of fuel.
 
So took the pump into the stanadyne shop, they weren't all that excited about testing it but said they would for $200. Also said they couldn't get to it til at least monday So I called Fred up again he seemed to be more receptive to listening to me today. He still thinks there is nothing wrong with the pump so I kinda put him on the spot and said OK tell me what to fix/look for. He didn't have any answers. So I'm going to mail it back to him today and he'll test it and if he can't find anything wrong then he'll charge me $50 to test it. So it's off to the PO I go
 
So to back track a little bit In an effort to get my pump I got from spdgofast to free up I found a place that has a fuel pump with BIO in it so I put about 10 gallons of blended fuel in and ran it around for a day or so. I also put in a new CPS as it wouldn't run on just the CPS. All to no avail, I need to add here I also had the no hot start issue with this pump. So I bought the new pump from Fred in frustration. I had issues getting that pump timed so I called and talked to Bill Heath, he told me several things about how he times them that flies in the face of everything I've read and also my own experiences. One was that he times them cold, another was he always does timeset on OBD2. He suggested I move the pump alot towards the drivers side and try timeset cold, so I did and it worked but I was way to far advanced now though. By the time I got it back into the range I was looking for it was close to where I had it originally. It worked like I was normally used to after that first timeset. BUTT still the no hot start. So since my pump wasn't going to be back until the end of the week earliest, I put the first pump back on and tried the timeset cold like Bill had suggested on the new pump aanndd it worked! So I was able to get that pump timed, then I started checking things out towards the no hot start it still had. I set up my scanner to read RPMs and cranked over while in the no hot start mode, I got 136 RPM. Lower than I was anticipating I still haven't been able to find a definitive answer on what the hot start RPM is supposed to be I've read anywhere from 100 to 200. If anyone can produce a number with something to back it up I'm all ears. So I took my big battery charger and set it on 50 amps and cranked it over with that on there, Rpm went up to 146. So in the meantime I ordered a powermaster starter this morning, I'm also going to load test my fairly new batteries too. I'm starting to think it's a combination of weak batteries, the really thin winter fuel we have here and starter. We shall see........
 
Been thinking about the minimum crank speed. Can’t really go by an old set number, because the fuel used back in the 90’s doesn’t even exist anymore. Good ballpark maybe but spec would be different if redetermined today because today’s fuel does not have the same power the good stuff did. (Granted acid rain thing makes it worth it) how exact the speed is also would change on compression.
Not much help, I know- but I would think if you find the actual old spec, probably need to bump it 150 rpm or so.
 
What you say is true Will but I need a starting point to go from. What ever the original number is ought to be my mininmum with more being better
 
Meant to say 100 more, not 150 more. I was thinking I mentioned 100 min before and was thinking that is wrong should be 150 min. I need to think then type. And that 100 more would also include the higher pop injectors, although only 2200 isn’t way over stock.
I can’t remember if there is spec in manual or not. Will be tomorrow night before I can dig through mine for that.
 
Sounds like an aggravating problem.

Doesn't bio viscosity change with temperature significantly (it might thin out too). But unlike Diesel as temp increases lubricity is more stable. I am wondering if that might have been a mixed result test especially be northern bio.

Maybe a little better test would be draw off a ~ gallon of your winter fuel and add a quart of SAE 30 non detergent oil and some cetane improver then just make a little gravity feed tank to the IP directly could let LP pump to dead head or pump to a bucket to pour back in tank. Just let gravity tank go back to truck tank and let it mix with several gallons should be ok shouldn't it. Get the engine hot pull in garage rig up little test tank with viscous fuel and see if it starts warm.

If it cranks warm like on the ether can you shut it off and restart or does the warm no start repeat immediately? Looking for any bleed down action vs time when warm trying to figure if its a pump up or bleed down issue ????
 
Maybe check voltage at the starter in case there is a bad connection, cable, etc. Offhand it's like 11v min battery cable at starter 9v at the crank solenoid wire.

I forget where as it was that I found a spec. 2010 was the last time I messed around with that. Here is the numbers I came up with and never had time to finish the measurements.

The Powermaster 9052 starter for 6.2 and 6.5

As the hard start and air issue caused the demise under the no questions asked Jegs warranty of my 1st Powermaster I had the opportunity to compare cranking RPM between starters. (The starter would spin without turning the engine.) The Powermaster liked to spin at 180 cold. It would take a...
www.thetruckstop.us

Not sure where they get the info from:


And cold cranking (95 RPM real world typical hell frozen over cold) and oil as applies to you ( and well, Uh, now to Popsicles out east :woot: ) :

Low-Temperature oil Pumpability... in a 6.2. Internal oil flow info.

Low-Temperature oil Pumpability... in a 6.2. Internal oil flow info. Link found at...
www.thetruckstop.us
 
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