GM 3.6 VVT

[ak diesel driver]

I'm wondering if it wore enough to jump a tooth? Saw a vid where the primary/bottom chain jumped a tooth also wore into the cover a bit.

 

[Husker6.5]

Wouldn't surprise me. The old Mopar 318's and 360's, like the 360 in my old '72 D100 Adventure Sport, were notorious for the timing chain jumping a tooth or more because some corporate idiot thought that running with nylon teeth on the cam sprocket so the engine would be quieter was a bright idea - right up until 80-100K miles and the brittle nylon teeth began chipping or breaking off and the chain would jump a tooth or two, usually at engine shutoff when the valvetrain's rotational inertia would cause the side of the timing chain normally under tension when running to go slack and the worn/missing teeth would slide by. The cure was going with a Cloyes or other all steel gear and chain set when replacing.

 

[ak diesel driver]

Pulled the trigger at RA this morning. Cloyes ultimate timing chain kit (has absolutely everything). New melling oil pump. New water pump and timing cover gasket kit. Just under 1k to my door. Locally it's about 1.2k for just the cloyes kit

 

[dbrannon79]

RA's prices plus the 5% discount makes a good deal!

 

[ak diesel driver]

Figure I'll need all this stuff even if the bottom end is bad

 

[Will L.]

Braver than I am. I rip things apart first jic something major is crunchy.

 

[MrMarty51]

Avoid timing chains on an Audi V6 engine.
Talk about complicated and a boat load of special tools.

 

[Husker6.5]

Avoid timing chains on an Audi V6 engine.
Talk about complicated and a boat load of special tools.

Even working on my '84 Audi 5000 turbo diesel 30 years ago was a PIA at times. The engine/Bosch P-pump/turbo system was easy enough, but things like trying to find the leak in the vacuum-actuated 4-door power locking system could drive a person insane! The only reason for the vacuum pump on the car in the first place was the brake booster and the door lock system! Why not electric door locks???

 

[ak diesel driver]

I hear ya Will. Just don't want my shop tied up for a couple of weeks just waiting on parts.

 

[Will L.]

Thats just because you are being productive, not being a slacker like me right now!

 

[ak diesel driver]

So after many delays and vasillating back and forth between doing this in the car or dropping the subframe assembly. I finally dropped the subframe. This is a first for me I've never dropped one before.
I think I have a couple of days I can put towards it, barring any unforeseen things coming up. So hopefully I can get it back in pretty soon.

 

[Husker6.5]

Fun experience? I know the "cheat" for pulling the engine on Camry's instead of dropping the subframe like in the manual, is to remove everything from the front of the engine (accessories, pulleys, brackets, etc), disconnecting all wiring harnesses, fuel lines, accelerator & cruise cables, exhaust down pipe, unbolting the torque converter from the flex plate and the block from the transaxle, pulling the motor mounts, then sliding the motor over an inch or so to clear the locating dowels and lifting it out with the front clearing the inner fender by about an inch.

It saves about 5 hours on the R&R and the hassle of raising the vehicle up on a lift and having a cradle jack to lower the subframe down to the floor and then still having to separate the engine from the transaxle to work on/swap out.

 

[ak diesel driver]

Well I pulled off the timing cover and things actually looked pretty good
So I figured I'd better pull the pan and I found a big piece of metal.

So I started checking the rod bearings and one of the middle ones is loose. So I guess it's rebuild time.

 

[dbrannon79]

If compression is good, you might get away with having the crank turned and new bearings. along with maybe oil pump. depending on what caused the problem

I would weigh out options as what the rebuild cost would be compared to a used but guarenteed engine would cost from LKQ or some of the reputable salvage yards. LKQ puts 3-6 months warranty on their engines.

 

[Husker6.5]

Hopefully the journal isn't FUBAR.

 

[ak diesel driver]

At this point it looks like my cheapest option is RA, crank with bearings $320 after discount. The only reputable machine shop around wants $350 just to turn it, assuming it can be

 

[ak diesel driver]

Crap! My cart was just edited and the crank removed and is now out of stock

 

[Rockabillyrat]

You were smart to drop the whole engine and trans assembly out like that. Makes it alot easier to work on them. I see alot of guys think that its faster to "cheat" an engine out. In my experience that's just not the case. I can have most subframes dropped with the engine and trans in about 2 hours. If you have a lift to work on then its really the best option for most vehicles out there.

 

[Husker6.5]

Yeah, if you have a shop with a lift. Not that many people out there with a home garage with a two-post or four post lift in it and a cradle jack to lower out the subframe for that once in a great while procedure. Again, for a home DIY'er with a cherry picker and not the ability to get a vehicle 6' up in the air, nor the bucks to take it to a mechanic, the "short cut" is the way to go.

 

[Husker6.5]

Crap! My cart was just edited and the crank removed and is now out of stock

Any other options, like through NAPA or AAP? I know when I was building my hybrid 4-bolt main large journal 327 from a 1971 350 truck block, that AAP had a 307 (same stroke as a 327) crank and bearing set for fairly reasonable (in 2001) price under $200 delivered to the store. Of course, you being up in Alaska, I shudder at what shipping costs would be, even delivered to the store.