• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Glowplugs...So I'm Screwed Aren't I?

Yea, if the WTS Light stayed on unusually long, it's prob a GP. I still haven't replaced the #4 in my Truck and it Runs & Drives just fine.

My friend that helped me get out the broken one the first time around, just had a baby, so he's been busy with that and hasn't had time to help me get the 2nd one out.
 
BIGR said:
I know at one time a read some horror stories about the tip of the glow plug burning off and falling into the engine. Was there anything to that?

Thanks,
Click to expand...

That was my experience...the tip broke off/melted off and got in between the valve and valve seat and It burned a a hole through the valve and valve seat where contact was made...

now take into consideration I was running a 500hp tune the day before on a few dyno runs at SunCoast...

also had either a leaking injector cup or head gasket at the time(coolant system was pressurized)

too may variables to say why exactly it broke off...could have been just plain dumb luck and a failed part...
 
btfarm said:
Your karma was out of line that day :D




:hihi:
Click to expand...

truck is cursed as of late...

FICM went out two weeks ago...only one I could get without the truck being down was at a couple of dealers 25 miles(and further) away...even with a mechanics discount $1100

Turbo oil drain tube leak( 8 hours labor to replace a $100 part) don't have time to do this or lay truck up, so I keep adding oil...

Earls tranny cooler started leaking right after that...$250 (replaced)

have a fuel leak...injector line or fuel log is the cause...can't narrow it down just yet

Just spent almost 2k on completely replacing all the front end components(voluntarily) to make sure the truck is safe to drive when I turn it over to my son in Feb 2016

Steering box has play...will probably replace that in the next year.

I've put so much into the truck the past five years, I could have bought new...but once you do a SC V and rebuild and engine with carrilo's and such, you are in it for the long haul...you'll never get what you put into it out of it...so you keep throwing parts at it...

When I pass this on, I'll be getting an an LMM and the only thing it will get is an egr and dpf delete and maybe a tow tune and transgo jr.

I'll be paying for the maintenance on the old truck for my son, so I hope I have everything squared away on it for him by then...
 
Last edited:
EGR blocker plate(no need for a EGR delete, the deletes can cause to many other problems), re-route the PCV, elminate the DPF, and take the throttle blade out of the throttle valve. That's about it for the engine. TRANSGO JR and TRANSYND for the trans, and your pretty well good to go. Stick with a 2 wheel drive, and no worries about pump rub, CV's and alot of the other stuff that goes along with it.
 
Will L. said:
If one cylinder wears one out, others are close to follow.
Click to expand...

Its been my experience that the ones that are the most PITA are the ones that go out first.

I took a diesel class in 1998 or '99 at the local jr college. A marine from the motor pool (I live close to Camp Pendelton Marine Base), took the class 'cause he said all they did at the motor pool was swap stuff out & no education about diesel engines. Anyway, he said that a lot of glow plug tips broke off there, & he would remove the nozzle & usually was able to remove said tip through the nozz hole with a strong magnet & a piece of welding rod. that they were too big to fall through the pre-chamber into the motor. He said that on the 2 PITA ones, replace the plug, leaving the broken tip inside the pre-chamber, "Theres plenty of room in there"

Anyway, FWIW, -c-
 
The glowplug on cylinder number 5 was bad.

Due to time constraints and a trip to deer camp, I just let the dealer fix it for 150.00. Probably could have been done cheaper, but sometimes you just have to pay the price when your pushed for time.

Thanks for your input guys.
 
BIGR said:
The glowplug on cylinder number 5 was bad.

Due to time constraints and a trip to deer camp, I just let the dealer fix it for 150.00. Probably could have been done cheaper, but sometimes you just have to pay the price when your pushed for time.

Thanks for your input guys.
Click to expand...

Damn! That's a 20 minute job! :eek:
 
Glad to hear that your all good again with your Duramax. :thumbsup: But boy, I am in the wrong business. Jeeeeesh. Did it come with any vasoline?
 
well i had #2 glow plug go bad ,i let the garage convince me i should change them all witch makes sense,but now the last two,one on each side have broken,has anybody been able to drill them out is there enough room or the engine has to come out,any help would be appreciated thanks mike
 
tammlyn said:
well i had #2 glow plug go bad ,i let the garage convince me i should change them all witch makes sense,but now the last two,one on each side have broken,has anybody been able to drill them out is there enough room or the engine has to come out,any help would be appreciated thanks mike
Click to expand...

Here's what I had to do for the Broken one:

Well, we got it out yesterday!!

Took just under 2 hours.

I used a Thread I found on another Truck Site googling to see what steps needed to be taken.

Tools needed:

Digital Caliper (So you can know how deep you can Drill before hitting the Electrode in the GP)
Drill
LEFT HAND 13/64" Drill Bit
1/4-20 Bottoming Hole Tap
LEFT HAND 11/32" Drill Bit
Pick Tool / Chisel / whatever you can find or use
Vacuum
Vacuum
Vacuum

Drill the Glow Plug Body Flush to the Head with the 11/32" Drill Bit

Drill the CENTER on the Glow Plug with the 13/64" Drill Bit

Tap the Center of the Glow Plug with the 1/4-20 Bottoming Tap (This is a safety precaution. If you can't get the GP out, you can Thread a Screw into it to then pull it out)

Now use the 11/32" Bit to start drilling out the GP Body completely. You need to be 100% Spot-On so you don't damage the Threads in the Head.

Once you get past the Threads, you should be able to pull the GP out. Before you do that get a Pick Tool to get out any remaining Thread Material that may be in the Threads in the Head.

We used a Thread Chaser just to make sure the Threads were still good in the Head, put the new GP in and everything is good.
 
You probably need a right angle drill motor Mike. Actually the 7&8 aren't all that tough to get to
 
tammlyn said:
hi mad max which glow plugs did you have to drill,i would like to know if anyone had done the last two is there any room to drill them out thanks
Click to expand...

#3...second one back from the front on Pass Side.

If you're doing the last 2 (closest to Firewall), like Mike said, you'll need a Right Angle Drill and try to Drill as Straight as you can.
 
Mad Maxx said:
Yea, if the WTS Light stayed on unusually long, it's prob a GP. I still haven't replaced the #4 in my Truck and it Runs & Drives just fine.

My friend that helped me get out the broken one the first time around, just had a baby, so he's been busy with that and hasn't had time to help me get the 2nd one out.
Click to expand...

Hello new to this site but have had close to a nervous break down with my 07 classic Dmax !
broke number 5 glow plug off an about through my Rachet through the shop wall ! searched an the web for info an ende up buying a kit to help remove my glow plug but only used the drill bit an a 1/4 in tap from the kit .. $240 later i found the same step down drill bit on ebay for $20 plus ship .. the drill bit is a 10 mm an the tip steps down an centers itself to stay straight when drilling out the plug .

here is the link thought it will help others with the dreaded GP issue ..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/181378879558?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
 
Hey Classic - Thanks! That's good to know. Welcome to The Truck Stop! Glad to have you around.
 
Thanks btfarm . it would be nice if someone patten a kit for these truck as there is a lot of them on the road that this will happen to for sure !

ive had my 2007 for almost 6 months other than the Glow plug melt down that i had :mad: I love the truck had 106 k when i drove it off the lot an have put around 6000 miles on it since . Snowing today in Vermont going to get 10 -12 ..
 
Why not post up a howdy thread in the intro section and tell us a little about yourself and your truck. There's quite a bit of Duramax knowledge around here so spend as much time as you want to.
From one of the high mile Dmax guys.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top