• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Getting ready to start my project !!!

That's the whole reason I went with ARPs on mine, I couldn't justify buying tty bolts and running the risk of something happening to them and costing me and engine. The studs cost me like $185 shipped to my door and I definitely feel a lot better knowing they are what's holding my heads down now ( only if GM would have been smart enough to do this from the factory, but we all know the short cuts they took on these engines =\ )
 
I've dis-assembled around 20 of these engines with the TTY bolts. The actual torques were all over the place on the ones I checked with a torque wrench. The TTY bolts are the cause of all the top end problems with these engines in my opinion. I will not use the crap rubber band tty bolts ever. I just had a interesting read in a Volkswagen service manual. They said to re-torque the TTY head bolts on the diesels another quarter turn after running for a hour or so. I hope I can get studs for my VW.
 
Hell... I have a commercial 62" Toro zero turn mower with a 25 hp Kohler.. and guess what happened to that ?? blew the head gaskets and guess what kinda bolts were in there securing them ?? the piece of shit TTY's of course...

I had to pull the engine and pull the heads..now has new gaskets and no longer has TTY's.... :)

Mike
 
If you are willing to take the time and pay ,ARP has a catalog and you can get almost any length and size stud. Quite spendy to buy individually but possible. A place called "Alloy Bolts" had many kits for oddball stuff and motorcycles. They can make up a kit if you have the size and lengths. they sell ARP and other high quality bolts.
 
My injectors and oil pan are supposed to be arriving to me on Monday.. I will get more pics soon after they have arrived and installed.

I might even get a few pics of the basket case I was left with under the hood of my truck.

Mike
 
Alrighty guys... Back on track. I did start a new job though and so it might slow me down a lil bit on this beast, but I am going to try to keep picking away at it.

Thanks to Barry "bk95td" I have received my freshly rebuilt Bosch injectors with Bosch marine nozzles and fuel line return kit. I think the pressures are all approximately 2250 psi or as close as he could get them, and he had a really nice truck pan that I was looking for.

Injectors and return lines.

100_4597.jpg
[/IMG]

Oil pan.

100_4598.jpg
[/IMG]

Injectors, copper washers fingered in with threads anti seized.

100_4603.jpg
[/IMG]

100_4604.jpg
[/IMG]


Is there anyway to index theses injectors so that all the return nipples are in line with one another or angled the same way ??

Mike
 
I've dis-assembled around 20 of these engines with the TTY bolts. The actual torques were all over the place on the ones I checked with a torque wrench. The TTY bolts are the cause of all the top end problems with these engines in my opinion. I will not use the crap rubber band tty bolts ever. I just had a interesting read in a Volkswagen service manual. They said to re-torque the TTY head bolts on the diesels another quarter turn after running for a hour or so. I hope I can get studs for my VW.

The TTYs in VWs for what ever reason seem to hold up better than the ones in the 6.5, I recently changed mine in the wife's TDI so far so good, I don't see a lot of folks complaining on the TDI forum about them, possibly in addition to the rubber band effect TTYs have on 6.5, clamping bolt pattern on TDI does a better job than the one on the 6.5.

My project 6.5 engine got ARPs in it.
 
Alrighty guys... Back on track. I did start a new job though and so it might slow me down a lil bit on this beast, but I am going to try to keep picking away at it.

Thanks to Barry "bk95td" I have received my freshly rebuilt Bosch injectors with Bosch marine nozzles and fuel line return kit. I think the pressures are all approximately 2250 psi or as close as he could get them, and he had a really nice truck pan that I was looking for.

Injectors and return lines.

100_4597.jpg
[/IMG]

With the Tygon fuel return lines you'll need plenty of force to get them onto the injectors. A tip from the guy who came up with the Tygon return line idea, use a little silicone spray on the lines right where they slide over the barbs.

The Tygon line was originally suggested to me a few years back by a small engine shop owner due to it's ability to handle heat. I brought him an injector and he found the line that was the tightest fit. I bought 7 feet and went to town. Best experiment i've ever done.

I'm honestly glad it caught on. No more leaky, dry rot rubber return hoses. The Tygon line doesn't seem to have that issue.


The ones i put on my K-5 that day are still there, 2 years later. They've survived one injector swap out as well. The lines do get soft right at the injector barbs themselves when hot but right above that they seem to have no issue.

I'm very please with the Tygon fuel hose, of all diameters.

I actually used 3/8" ID Tygon for fuel supply from the frame rail fuel line to the pressure regulator on my K-5s re-done fuel system. It probably wouldn't be a bad idea to run Tygon line from your fuel manager to your IP, unless your using braided stainless that is.

Just a word of warning, the hose will conform to the injector return line barb after a while. If you ever remove them to change injectors, they will feel like they are not holding as well as they did before. The lines will sort of just slip over, instead of being a real tight fit. I don't think they'd leak(mine haven't as far as i can tell) as there's really not a lot of pressure in the return lines, but a hard accel(and i'm sure that DB4 will be able to provide you with that :D) may be enough to make one leak.
 
Last edited:
Yeah, I've made a little progress... not a whole bunch. I started a new job here 2 weeks ago and that has been consuming quite a bit of my time, not to mention an 18 pack appears everyday at about 4:45 and we work from 7: ish til 6 maybe 6:30...

I did get all my injectors torqued in, half of my return lines on.

I'm taking off for this weekend and obviously wont get anymore done til Sunday or Monday. I will get some new pics up then.

Have a good 4th everybody,
Mike
 
Sorry for the delays everybody...

I've been busy doing the family / super Dad thing lately, but I'm waiting on a few parts to show up that I had bought from Barry, to get back rolling on this again.

I will try to get a few pics of the progress up here later this week.

Mike
 
Alright, I received a few parts from Barry...
I didn't take a picture of the aluminum heater hose pipe that bolts to the intake though.

A really nice water cross over / thermostat housing.
100_4834.jpg
[/IMG]

Some really nice fuel return pipes.
100_4835.jpg
[/IMG]

A very clean engine cover.
100_4840.jpg
[/IMG]

I bought two new water pumps.. Neither are re-mans.
This one (2000 spin on / balanced flow style) is going on my truck. I bought it new at Carquest for 153.00
100_4837.jpg
[/IMG]

I bought this one off from a member here, but I've decided to re sell it.. (it's for sale). It is a 130 gph (bolt on flange) HO pump.
100_4838.jpg
[/IMG]


I hope to be able to get some, maybe all of these goodies bolted on this week / week end.

Mike
 
Back
Top