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Gear Vendors for 4L80E

Burning oil

Burning oil

LeroyDiesel.com
Vendor
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Location
Houston
Thinking about buying one for the 96 CCLB. Its got a 2000# camper in the back and I'd like to be able to stay in the power band while going up inclines (like the Rocky mountains).
Anyone run one? what are your experiences with it?
Anyone have an opinon?

Anyone have one for sale?

Thanks.
 
We ran a couple in a fleet on service trucks. I like them, If it was a workable thing for full time 4wd, I would put it on the list for the Hummer. When the trucks were not loaded heavy or towing, (the regular od in the truck is 25%) the 40% od with the gear vendor really dropped the rpm and that meant better mpg and engine life. When the truck was heavy or towing it helped pulling hills, but no "mega-overdrive" as we called it.

You have to keep the truck a while for it to pay for itself. I just prefer the performance and write off the roi theory.
 
I talked to a guy yesterday that has one. He might be willing to swap me my stock stuff for his plus some cash.
 
Still very much on the burner, just moved to the back burner though. I emailed the guy From DP a couple times but never heard back? Guess he sold it?
I talked to GV and there is no significant reduction in price. They don't have distributors so control the pricing very well.
 
Yeah, kinda sucky sales process imo. More vendors and a lil price competition sell a lot more widgets the way I learned it.

I could have sold tons of them back when I was co-owner in a truck equipment shop, but so little profit wasn't worth it at the time. Easier to send the truck to a local shop that did low priced gearing swap when needed. I was hoping they changed, but oh well.

Still waiting for a 3 speed transfer case that has standard low,high, and od. A GV would still be better for splitting but I know they cant do one for me.
 
I would love to get one of these for my truck. But it is hard to justify the price when it is more than I paid for my truck.

I still eye ball their site on a regular basis. one day! :eek:
 
Ya know, in 2wd pickups there is lots of room for piggy back tranny then a set of gears in the diff.

I know- shut up Will.
 
When I bought one I got dealer pricing, and it wasn't much difference. I think I got $200 off after an hour of haggling with them. For a $3K+ dollar piece, $200 wasn't much after having to go through the whole dealer registration process with them. And after all that I ended up returning the dam thing because I never could get it to work without vibrations.
 
Piggy back trans/ gear swap? Old time trick for gaining gear selection when 3/4 speeds were the only things out there. Got lower gear selection and better top end gears. Have to get in the way back machine for this one. Went something like this:

Start with 4 speed manual trans where 4th is 1:1. 4.10 rear end. Out goes the 4.10 and in with 2.73 gears (dana 44iirc). Now a lot lower rpm on the hiway, but no pulling power to get up to speed.

Mount another tranny same as 1 in the truck, just make the input shaft receive the output shaft via ujoint set up. Then from the output of the 2nd trans is a shorter driveshaft. With the 2nd trans you have basically 16 gears to use to get you up to speed with way plenty of towing torque from the gear reduction.

My Dad did it to a ol Willy's truck with a 350 and twin 4 speeds in the mid 70's. Kinda funny watching him go through the gears. iirc there was 2 or 3 gears that were not worth using, but that truck was quick and topped out around 155-160. I know in 4wd low that sucker crept slow.

You just have to do the math and figure out the individual ratios of the trans that your using and the rear end ratio to make sure you get a workable combination for acceleration and the best freeway gears you can get your hands on.

See what a left turn on the freeway I can make in a conversation?--hence the shut up Will.
 
Will L. said:
Piggy back trans/ gear swap? Old time trick for gaining gear selection when 3/4 speeds were the only things out there. Got lower gear selection and better top end gears. Have to get in the way back machine for this one. Went something like this:

Start with 4 speed manual trans where 4th is 1:1. 4.10 rear end. Out goes the 4.10 and in with 2.73 gears (dana 44iirc). Now a lot lower rpm on the hiway, but no pulling power to get up to speed.

Mount another tranny same as 1 in the truck, just make the input shaft receive the output shaft via ujoint set up. Then from the output of the 2nd trans is a shorter driveshaft. With the 2nd trans you have basically 16 gears to use to get you up to speed with way plenty of towing torque from the gear reduction.

My Dad did it to a ol Willy's truck with a 350 and twin 4 speeds in the mid 70's. Kinda funny watching him go through the gears. iirc there was 2 or 3 gears that were not worth using, but that truck was quick and topped out around 155-160. I know in 4wd low that sucker crept slow.

You just have to do the math and figure out the individual ratios of the trans that your using and the rear end ratio to make sure you get a workable combination for acceleration and the best freeway gears you can get your hands on.

See what a left turn on the freeway I can make in a conversation?--hence the shut up Will.
Click to expand...

That sounds pretty cool. Thanks for sharing.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
When I bought one I got dealer pricing, and it wasn't much difference. I think I got $200 off after an hour of haggling with them. For a $3K+ dollar piece, $200 wasn't much after having to go through the whole dealer registration process with them. And after all that I ended up returning the dam thing because I never could get it to work without vibrations.
Click to expand...

Was told the same. So Im watching for a good used one at this point.
 
I'm leaning toward finding a US Gear or DNE2 with the 20% over. Sure they are out of production, but it looks like there is still support for them.

US Gear Pro's:
> Goes between the tranny and transfer case (for those with 4x4). Naturally, it will call for a shorter rear drive shaft (so does the GV) and a longer front drive shaft.
> IIRC ~20K mile fluid change interval.
> Stays in the last gear selected (direct or over / under).
> Works natively with the 4x4 system.

US Gear Con's:
> For shifting, *must* wait 2+ seconds for the mechanism to get ready for the shift otherwise damage to the shifting mechanism may / will occur.
> Shifting requires a quick butterfly of the throttle or slip of the clutch to unload the gears.
> I cannot find literature with specs (weight, torque rating, etc).


Will, I actually looked into a secondary tranny or Spicer 5831 C, but steered away as it started to look like too much fabrication work. Also, the Wife drives the Burb which is why I limited focus to an aux tranny rather than a second (or third) oar to row :)
 
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