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Fuel system setup

I was going to drop it out on the ground but dad talked me into putting it in the air. We sat the rear down on the stands in the picture and had the front sitting on a piece of wood across two of the arms. That allowed enough space to disconnect the supply and return lines. In case someone needs to do this and wonders what the fittings look like, see below. The bed rails will be getting cleaned up somehow or at least get a thorough douche job with Fluid Film. Hard to believe what the tank hides.

20260222_172441[1].jpg
 
SnowDrift said:
Should the O-ring for the seal be replaced while it's out or just reuse the one already on the tank?
Click to expand...
Use the blow gun and blast iff as much of the dirt as possible. Wire brush and screw drivers helps.
Partially unscrew the hold down nut and blast it some more. Repeat until the nut is relieved if its ramps, then hold down the SU and blow it off some more.
IIRC, maybe the new pendulum unit might come with a new O-Ring.
 
a new SU should come with the o-ring. if you have to re-use. coat it heavy in silicone grease, the stuff that's used on electric connections, that stuff won't break down rubber and will help seal it.

iirc the top of the SU is greased with some sort of preservative from the factory to help with rust and corrosion. seems like it's almost the same stuff they use on battery terminals in the spray can.
 
dbrannon79 said:
I was thinking about that since the main bearings have a tang that holds them from spinning, wondered if that gets damaged or it just damages the bearing where new bearings and crank would repair that portion.
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Yes.
All the spun bearings I have seen the engine does not run for long after the bearing spins.
Ones I have taken apart with spun bearing the bearings stack and the engine stalled.
The tang on the bearing is always wiped off.
Two of those engines git the crank ground under, new bearings, back together and was still running years later.
Another one I didnt finish. Customer decided to go with a reman long block.
 
MrMarty51 said:
Yes.
All the spun bearings I have seen the engine does not run for long after the bearing spins.
Ones I have taken apart with spun bearing the bearings stack and the engine stalled.
The tang on the bearing is always wiped off.
Two of those engines git the crank ground under, new bearings, back together and was still running years later.
Another one I didnt finish. Customer decided to go with a reman long block.
Click to expand...
Ok so the block and main caps should still be good then with new bearings and matched crank with new bearings. that was what I was curious about.
 
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