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Fuel mileage

Since I'm rebuilding my 95 dually should I consider going with a DS2 and scrap the pcm all together? That kind of fuel economy is crazy in in dually.

Their is a little more to it than just throwing a DB2 on and going... I will email you the swap instructions with everything someone will need to know..
 
Mine is a 97. So it should be a DS 2. It always sounds like it has a exhaust leak or a light tick . I'm almost convinced it has a electrical problem. My headlights dim when I hit the brakes, it blows tail light circuit boards regularly. The heater controller will cut off but if you hit it enough times it comes back on.
 
I have made many trips of 900miles one way to the same place every year, always filled up at the same place every trip, winter or summer...

Always got 17mpg until the last trip back home last fall..

I traded some coating work for a near new manual IP timing tool. I always suspected the timing was retarded..

I played with it for several hours and got it to where the motor sounded right..

A few days later drove home, during the trip I kept watching the fuel gauge, thinking it must have gone bad.. turns out it hadn't, I now average 22+ mpg in the 93 dually...
So what is it set at now? Where was it set at?
Curious minds is wanting to know. I just did a timing reset on Mine in hopes of gaining some more MPGz and if I could get close to that 20 mark, I`d be a very very happy camper.
 
Curious minds is wanting to know. I just did a timing reset on Mine in hopes of gaining some more MPGz and if I could get close to that 20 mark, I`d be a very very happy camper.

I know @ak diesel driver asked this also and I forgot to answer LOL....

I'm not sure where it was when retarded , and this motor has w 6.2 pump on it as well as 240K miles.. I quit at 6*btdc, the process on a db2 isn't a easy one and keep in mind I'm not "sure" the timing tab is correctly set, I know the po years ago had the cover off, I never bothered to check it, I mostly go by sound and how it drives and I half to adjust it as I go...

I have checked it here locally driving it and the mileage is correct, it wasn't a one time thing...
 
For the db2 a simple gasser timing light and one of these is all thats needed
Incase the link dies look in picture.

There are many manufacturers of these i just grabbed a random one of ebay.
The picture is of my Mac Tools branded one. ET18DPM is the part number. You clamp the sparkplug pickup clamp on the red loop of the tool. Clean the outside of the injector line and clamp on the ground clamp and pickup clamp.shoot light at timing gauge just like a gas engine. A local guy bought a $50 Taiwan unit 5-6 years ago and still uses it working in a diesel shop. Still works fine, that one sells for $75 last i saw. Really not the best for ds4 obviously but it will tell you your timing by the injection event to as accurate as you can see the balancer mark. So within 1 degree is not bad...88B6C015-CD8C-49D2-948B-844E4DB045E3.jpeg
 
When I got the truck 15mpg, with the sporadic SES light 12mpg, just replaced clutch so dont know yet. 3500HD with 5.13 gears 33" tires nv4500 puts it at 3400rpm at 60mph so it's over revved when it comes to fuel economy.
 
I would like to install a set of taller gears into My K3500 to bring down the RPMs some more, would like to see about 2000 at about 75 or so. I dont remember right now how may RPMs it now is churning at 75, with the 4:10s. LOL
That is with the 285/??/16 tires. When these gets wore down some more I want to install it to the original 265s. Them 285s just take up too much room in the fender wells and I had to lift the front end to keep them from rubbing, in the corners and hit a very slight bump.
 
You can run a lt235/85r16. So a little taller and skinnier.
Just went out and looked. The tires is 285/75R/16. Just a little bit too tall. It is what was on the truck when I bought it.
Also, when the wifey run it up over that retaining wall, winter before last and that freaking idiot slammed the left front wheel into the wall by trying to snap rope it back up over the wall, it put a slight dent and small crack in the left front wheel, so now I suppose I`ll be needing a set of wheels too as I dont think I`ll be able to find an exact match for the wheels that's on it. When I had the tires rotated the service feller said that he could not find a brand name but said they looked like American Racing.
I want to go to the salvage yard and get a set of stock steel wheels, I know thems is tough. LOL
 
Fuel economy o the HD after the new clutch, 13.5mpg so far. Slight improvement.

Thinking the SES light is related to turbo boost. Goes off when towing or working the engine but comes back on after awhile of easy driving
 
I would like to install a set of taller gears into My K3500 to bring down the RPMs some more, would like to see about 2000 at about 75 or so. I dont remember right now how may RPMs it now is churning at 75, with the 4:10s. LOL
That is with the 285/??/16 tires. When these gets wore down some more I want to install it to the original 265s. Them 285s just take up too much room in the fender wells and I had to lift the front end to keep them from rubbing, in the corners and hit a very slight bump.

your truck is set up like mine and at 75 mph mines at 2480 rpms.
 
Still can't got mine above 10 mpg. I'm almost convinced it's an electrical problem. sometimes you start the truck especially first thing in the morning and it feels like it has all the power in the world. Takes off like a rocket and will fly up hills... But it's like you hit a bump or something, and all the sudden you ain't got squat for power. And you have to push the pedal three times as hard to get anywhere. And one that's doing that they can't climb a hill worth a squat. I've been fighting with this problem for a long time and cannot figure it out
 
RED- if you've done a vacuum pump delete it's going to throw the ses light on when towing or climbing hills..mine usually goes off within a couple hours.
 
RED- if you've done a vacuum pump delete it's going to throw the ses light on when towing or climbing hills..mine usually goes off within a couple hours.

Stock on that. Only engine related mods are a walbro lift pump and no exhaust after the downpipe (meth head hacked up the exhaust, haven't replaced it yet)
 
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