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Fuel Filter Change

I have a spare WIF sensor. When I take a filter off I just screw in the new filter with the sensor already in it. It saves a little time of getting the old sensor off even though I have the sensor wrench. Then I take my time and clean off the senor that came off the old filter.

Interesting. Spend a little money now, save a little time later. Cool.
 
I just changed mine again...I forgot what a pain in the ass these are to get at...the stool keeps slipping cause I can't stay in position while moving around. I can appreciate what engineers do, but they could've done this one a wee bit better.
I did manage to put some washers on the bracket this time to allow more room for a filter wrench. Now I can get onto the fat part of the filter instead of barely catching the bottom it and trying to stay in position with the stool slipping out on me...
 
I also have always done mine from the top on the '05 and the '06 but when I went to show a newbie on his NBS '08 dually last week, I see it isn't the same on those. He picked up a bag of clips and did it through the fender liner like most others. Oh, I don't remove the battery but then I followed somebody's suggestion from long ago and put a slight bend in the AC line of both trucks.
 
I know the new trucks are different but i go from the top. No need to remove the fender, battery or bend the ac line. Im also a little taller than most but i think im gonna make a stand that works better than a milk crate or a sketchy stool.
 
Since I do mine from the top too, something solid like a platform would be a great idea...even if it's only used a couple times a year.
 
I used to do mine from the top, moved the ac line, but with the lift on my truck its much easier on my back to go in from below, over the tire...
 
REPLACING THE DURAMAX FUEL FILTER

The first time I replaced the fuel filter in my truck, I wrestled with if for about 90 minutes due to the fact that I couldn't get a wrench to slide onto the filter. I eventually had to remove the battery on the passenger side after removing the air cleaner intake tube. But it was still a total pain due to the filter being pressed hard against the wiring harness that runs alongside the valve cover. Putting the new filter on was not very easy either because I didn't have room to get good leverage to push it on with the new "O" rings.

Later I installed a 3/8" thick aluminum filter head spacer I got from Merchant Automotive, which alleviated the problem of getting the wrench onto the filter. But removing the battery was still a pain and it was still very awkward to screw the new filter onto the filter head.

Then, the next time, I decided to do it by removing the two filter-head attaching screws. this made the job MUCH EASIER. You do NOT need to remove the battery. The fuel lines have enough slack so that you can bring the whole assembly up to where you have much better room to work. You can also visually inspect the "O" Ring surfaces to make sure there is no debris that would cause the filter to leak after installation.
  • I simply remove the air cleaner tube,
  • Disconnect the WIF sensor wire connector sitting just below the filter
  • Slide a filter wrench onto the filter and loosen the filter
  • Then I remove the two filter-head attaching screws which allows me to bring the whole assembly up, (Make sure you put the two screws in a safe place where they won't fall and get lost)
  • Then I remove the old filter by hand.
  • Remove the WIF sensor from the old filter and install it on the new filter (Be careful NOT to damage the WIF sensor if you use pliers to remove it - I use the WIF wrench I purchased from Merchant Automotive, which works GREAT for this.)
  • I then thoroughly clean the "O" ring surfaces, and dip my finger in a little diesel fuel and rub it on the "O" ring surfaces to lubricate them.
  • I then install the new filter and tighten it by hand, turning it an additional 3/4+ turn after it's seated to make sure it seals.
  • I then re-attach the filter head with the two screws.
  • Connect the WIF sensor wiring connector
  • Loosen the black priming screw
  • Press down on the priming button about 50 times or so, until fuel comes out from around the screw.
  • Tighten the priming screw - NOT very tight (Be careful 'cause the screw is made out of plastic - if you break it you'll be SOL until you get a new screw)
  • Pump the priming button a few more times until it gets hard to push down.
  • Start the truck and look for any leaks.
  • Then re-install the air cleaner tube.
This method allows me to change the fuel filter in less than 10 minutes.

I no longer need to remove the battery or the fender liner to change the fuel filter.

Picture of filter head mounting screws.
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Picture of filter head with spacer.
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Attachments

  • Fuel Filter - Spacer(small).JPG
    Fuel Filter - Spacer(small).JPG
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  • Fuel Filter - Mounting Screws (small).JPG
    Fuel Filter - Mounting Screws (small).JPG
    65.2 KB · Views: 50
Ray, how does a quarter inch spacer do anything to help change it out? I dont quite understand that. Filter wrench wraps around easier?

I changed a friends filter on the side of the road, late one night when he called that he had a problem. Midnight, gettin eatin by mosquitoes, I realized the LMMs' have twice the amount of plastic clips than the older styles do. His fender liner was a royal pain in the ass. The WIF sensor nearly broke off it was on so tight but at 40k miles, he had never changed it. He got a WIF light on his dash and continued to drive it instead of changing the filter right away. That move ended up costing him a motor since his injectors inhaled a ton of bad fuel. I used my predator to clear his codes but second by second, reading the real time data, each cylinder was throwing a misfire. Last I heard, the dealership replaced the motor but did not cover it under warranty.
 
I can answer that one Nick...although it does seem to be different from truck to truck, the spacer moves the filter out enough to get a strap wrench around it. Some have reported being able to do this without the spacer, but I could not. I could only get the strap around the smaller end down by the WIF and that was just a total pain to try and stay on.
 
I too change my fuel filter from the top. I do it in less than 15 minutes, and have not really had an issue with the changes. I bought the spacer from merchant as soon as I saw it. It makes changes easier for the same reasons Ozzie mentioned. The nylon filter wrench fits easier around the filter. I made a little step stool/stand, and it is a breeze.
 
REPLACING THE DURAMAX FUEL FILTER

The first time I replaced the fuel filter in my truck, I wrestled with if for about 90 minutes due to the fact that I couldn't get a wrench to slide onto the filter. I eventually had to remove the battery on the passenger side after removing the air cleaner intake tube. But it was still a total pain due to the filter being pressed hard against the wiring harness that runs alongside the valve cover. Putting the new filter on was not very easy either because I didn't have room to get good leverage to push it on with the new "O" rings.

Later I installed a 3/8" thick aluminum filter head spacer I got from Merchant Automotive, which alleviated the problem of getting the wrench onto the filter. But removing the battery was still a pain and it was still very awkward to screw the new filter onto the filter head.

Then, the next time, I decided to do it by removing the two filter-head attaching screws. this made the job MUCH EASIER. You do NOT need to remove the battery. The fuel lines have enough slack so that you can bring the whole assembly up to where you have much better room to work. You can also visually inspect the "O" Ring surfaces to make sure there is no debris that would cause the filter to leak after installation.
  • I simply remove the air cleaner tube,
  • Disconnect the WIF sensor wire connector sitting just below the filter
  • Slide a filter wrench onto the filter and loosen the filter
  • Then I remove the two filter-head attaching screws which allows me to bring the whole assembly up, (Make sure you put the two screws in a safe place where they won't fall and get lost)
  • Then I remove the old filter by hand.
  • Remove the WIF sensor from the old filter and install it on the new filter (Be careful NOT to damage the WIF sensor if you use pliers to remove it - I use the WIF wrench I purchased from Merchant Automotive, which works GREAT for this.)
  • I then thoroughly clean the "O" ring surfaces, and dip my finger in a little diesel fuel and rub it on the "O" ring surfaces to lubricate them.
  • I then install the new filter and tighten it by hand, turning it an additional 3/4+ turn after it's seated to make sure it seals.
  • I then re-attach the filter head with the two screws.
  • Connect the WIF sensor wiring connector
  • Loosen the black priming screw
  • Press down on the priming button about 50 times or so, until fuel comes out from around the screw.
  • Tighten the priming screw - NOT very tight (Be careful 'cause the screw is made out of plastic - if you break it you'll be SOL until you get a new screw)
  • Pump the priming button a few more times until it gets hard to push down.
  • Start the truck and look for any leaks.
  • Then re-install the air cleaner tube.
This method allows me to change the fuel filter in less than 10 minutes.

I no longer need to remove the battery or the fender liner to change the fuel filter.

Picture of filter head mounting screws.
attachment.php


Picture of filter head with spacer.
attachment.php

I remove the lines and then unplug the sensor and remove the two bolts, then I take the whole thing in the shop where I can change the filter by placing the mount in a shop vise.
 
Ray, how does a quarter inch spacer do anything to help change it out? I dont quite understand that. Filter wrench wraps around easier?

The production filter is hard against the injector harness that runs along the side of the valve cover. This makes it difficult to get the strap wrench around the filter. The 3/8" spacer moves the filter away from the harness and makes it much easier to get the filter wrench on.

However, if you change the filter by removing the two filter head bolts using the procedure I outlined above, you won't need the spacer, since you will be removing and installing the filter away from the valve cover.

My method does not require you to remove the fender liner nor remove the battery.
 
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