dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Just disconnect the line at the lift pump and have a clean soda bottle ready! gravity should do the rest 
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Fuel contamination
- Thread starter Stoney
- Start date
Big T
Well-Known Member
Sounds like you got the bottom of the stations tank.
JMJNet
Recruit
Wow, that is all I can say. Figure out the source and make sure you don't make the same mistakes.
Water could be from the slip tank cap not sealing good. What is baffling me is the rust being in it because I got that sample out of the peacock valve at the front of the engine which I've been told is the water separator and it drains off water when you open it... The reason that baffles me is because I have a inline fuel filter right before the lift pump and then it would have had to go through the main fuel filter up by the engine before it could have gotten to there.. not going to convince me that those big old particles of rust got past both filters. I just can't imagine that happening I opened it again yesterday and took a sample out and there was a tiny bit of rust in the bottom but I didn't see any of the sludge. That could be due to the fact that I put a bottle of the klean fuel treatment/ tank clean up in the tank the other day when I filled it.. full disclosure I seriously over treated the tank.... So now I'm trying to figure out either a how did the rest get that far through the fuel system or b is the rust coming from somewhere up there by the tee valve where is already past the filters
JMJNet
Recruit
I did not read the whole thread but where did you get the sample from?
If it is at the t-drain valve then, check the fuel canister.
Things can accumulate at the bottom.
If it is at the t-drain valve then, check the fuel canister.
Things can accumulate at the bottom.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
He saw the bug contamination a while back. This system is fully infected no matter where it started or came from.
Complete system cleaning and hopefully he doesn’t eat an ip in the next few months.
Complete system cleaning and hopefully he doesn’t eat an ip in the next few months.
JMJNet
Recruit
Bug investation is pesky.
There were posting before that even after the Biocide, the dead bug needs to be filtered out or clean somehow otherwise the bug will go to the IP.
There were posting before that even after the Biocide, the dead bug needs to be filtered out or clean somehow otherwise the bug will go to the IP.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
When you open up your fuel canister in the engine bay, get you a shop vac and tape a small tube to the end of the hose so you can poke down in the bottom and suck all the stuff out clean. make sure you don't suck up the little screen or I cant remember if there is a spring in there too. check the filter you have installed before the lift pump and see if it has contamination rust in ether end while you drain a sample from the tank to check.
it's very possible that the rust is an accumulation in the engine bay filter from when you had your factory tank connected. the sludge would be from water and ethanol in the tank your using now. I know those fuel caps have to ether be vented or there is a separate vent on the tank. since it's out in the open area of the bed, there are two possibilities. 1) the vent is allowing water into the tank. 2) its out in the open and with the temperature swings daily causing condensation on the inside of the tank creating moisture to grow sludge. those tanks sit out in the sun all day and get chilly during the night. this would cause water droplets to form on the top surface of the inside of the tank. when you drive, it all gets mixed into the fuel. when you washed out the tank before with gas, the ethanol left behind doubles that effect.
it's very possible that the rust is an accumulation in the engine bay filter from when you had your factory tank connected. the sludge would be from water and ethanol in the tank your using now. I know those fuel caps have to ether be vented or there is a separate vent on the tank. since it's out in the open area of the bed, there are two possibilities. 1) the vent is allowing water into the tank. 2) its out in the open and with the temperature swings daily causing condensation on the inside of the tank creating moisture to grow sludge. those tanks sit out in the sun all day and get chilly during the night. this would cause water droplets to form on the top surface of the inside of the tank. when you drive, it all gets mixed into the fuel. when you washed out the tank before with gas, the ethanol left behind doubles that effect.
I've got 2 more fuel filter left out of the ones I(Believe it was @WarWagon )sent me in a care package. Don't own a shop vac at the moment but the car wash does...I'll take small hose and duct tape with me and try what your saying @dbrannon79 ..
@JMJNet yes I got the sample from the "t" valve in front of engine by the alternator. thats what baffled me , because that means it either got past all the filters if it came from the tank or main fuel line .. that's almost impossible. That stuufs way to big to get past the little fuel screen under the main filter in the housing.. .. I'm assuming that where that t valve comes from must be the last place the fuel goes before going into the injection pump. But if that were the case I'd think the pump would long since have been destroyed by it.
@Will L. If that pump goes thankfully I have a back up. At least I think I do.. not sure how to test it to make sure it's good..i keep thinking I should fill it with ATF . And put it in a plastic bag..
@JMJNet yes I got the sample from the "t" valve in front of engine by the alternator. thats what baffled me , because that means it either got past all the filters if it came from the tank or main fuel line .. that's almost impossible. That stuufs way to big to get past the little fuel screen under the main filter in the housing.. .. I'm assuming that where that t valve comes from must be the last place the fuel goes before going into the injection pump. But if that were the case I'd think the pump would long since have been destroyed by it.
@Will L. If that pump goes thankfully I have a back up. At least I think I do.. not sure how to test it to make sure it's good..i keep thinking I should fill it with ATF . And put it in a plastic bag..
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
The T valve is before going through the filter
Either way I hate to say it but if I don't get this truck straightened out very soon I'm just gonna scrap it..the frame is in amazing condition. Still has factory paint on most of it, barley any rust..aside from the rockers the body is also in great condition. Although sun damaged from living in Georgia most of its life before I got it.. that I can tell the engine doesn't even have any blow by...I need to make video of it and figure out how to put it on YouTube so y'all can see..
But it's got all these nit pic little problems that I can't figure out..
This fuel issue doesn't even rank in the top 5 problems... It's all petty stuff I guess but stuff I can't figure out.
Biggest issue I have is that you guys all do a amazing job trying to explain to me how to fix things. But my brain literally doesn't work that way.. I can't learn from reading words.. you can explain something to me 10 times in words on this screen and my brain is like .uummmm.... But if I'm right next to someone watching them do something I'll know how to do it for life..
The bitch is I know if I lived close enough to any of y'all that are mechanics, y'all could probably figure out and fix everything in a weekend.
But it's got all these nit pic little problems that I can't figure out..
This fuel issue doesn't even rank in the top 5 problems... It's all petty stuff I guess but stuff I can't figure out.
Biggest issue I have is that you guys all do a amazing job trying to explain to me how to fix things. But my brain literally doesn't work that way.. I can't learn from reading words.. you can explain something to me 10 times in words on this screen and my brain is like .uummmm.... But if I'm right next to someone watching them do something I'll know how to do it for life..
The bitch is I know if I lived close enough to any of y'all that are mechanics, y'all could probably figure out and fix everything in a weekend.
Ohhh... That explains a lot
. So I was thinking it in reverse.. so if there's rust at the t valve that means it's from the fuel lines rusting out. The tank is solid aluminum so that literally can't rust.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Imo the vacuum is a waste of time.
The whole system needs drained, scrub what ya can and flush what you can’t with gasoline then new clean diesel & bug killer juice.
The whole system needs drained, scrub what ya can and flush what you can’t with gasoline then new clean diesel & bug killer juice.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
You clean the whole system leaving ip for last. Then use LP to pump gasoline to ip with jumper wire if you don’t have an LP bypass switch. Turn key on, DO NOT CRANK. This will open the fuel shut off valve and the LP will pump gasoline through the ip.
Have the clear return line off the metal line and pump gas 3-4 gallon into a container.
Then connect the clear line and have it pump through the return line into a container- 2 gallons should be enough.
DO NOT put any of this “washing” gas into any vehicle when done. If you don’t know how to get rid of it, the epa probably has some nice and expensive suggestions. I would never suggest improper disposal because I love the spotted tree whales.
Anything like the tank you can get a scrub brush into- do it. Tank, ffm
When everything is as clean as you can get it, add your new fuel with bug killer. DO NOT run the return line back into the fuel tank. Use a jerry can as fuel tank to catch the returns. Dispose of the first batch of bug treated fuel in a epa approved way. Then when that is gone, more new fuel and bug killer now using return line into the tank.
Cross fingers and drive. I would replace the new fuel filter within 100 miles of driving, then again at 500 miles.
Have the clear return line off the metal line and pump gas 3-4 gallon into a container.
Then connect the clear line and have it pump through the return line into a container- 2 gallons should be enough.
DO NOT put any of this “washing” gas into any vehicle when done. If you don’t know how to get rid of it, the epa probably has some nice and expensive suggestions. I would never suggest improper disposal because I love the spotted tree whales.
Anything like the tank you can get a scrub brush into- do it. Tank, ffm
When everything is as clean as you can get it, add your new fuel with bug killer. DO NOT run the return line back into the fuel tank. Use a jerry can as fuel tank to catch the returns. Dispose of the first batch of bug treated fuel in a epa approved way. Then when that is gone, more new fuel and bug killer now using return line into the tank.
Cross fingers and drive. I would replace the new fuel filter within 100 miles of driving, then again at 500 miles.
I got thinking about something today.. this is just a off the wall thought... Is there any chance the oil pressure switch could possibly be causing the truck to drag.. well in that case it wouldn't be drag it would actually be that it's not getting enough fuel. I read that it controls fuel flow through the lift pump.