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Final details for my "Twisted" P400 build

SnowDrift

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So, from reading this in regards to the cooling ports you've added, you mentioned they probably wouldn't fit under a stock intake. If I plan to use a stock intake, then is the only advantage of a P400 head VS. AMG head the hardened valve seats?

I have an extra port in my thermostat housing, due to once having a Heath Balance Flow system, already
 

SnowDrift

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This one, Chris?
 

SnowDrift

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Maybe this is the later one you're referring to?

There is a buffet of information you've provided on heads, block, etc. Sifting through it turns up little nuggets of useful information all over the place.
 

Twisted Steel Performance

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I thought I posted links but I see I didn't. The above has some info. Someone on a different forum wanted to send samples from different blocks to get tested, I provided a sample but we don't have results yet. There's a lot of difference between motors, I just haven't posted it all for the world to see.
 

SnowDrift

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Could this portion (blue arrow) be removed to allow coolant to flow into the area with red? It seems like it would be a dead cavity, if so, unless ports were added like you have in yours.
1666744631940.png
Based on the images you have posted, it doesn't look as if the non P400 head could have coolant running fore & aft in the head at all because it appears each of those cavities is its own area, not connected to the adjacent one.
 

dbrannon79

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forgive me for asking, but isn't this the port where some machine out and install a brass sleeve due the cracking between the valves? wouldn't that process block off the port on the head surface not allowing coolant into this area as well?
 

dbrannon79

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My curiosity on that sleeve they install on cracked heads... this is only to stop coolant from entering the head so it stops leaking into the cylinder through the crack right? the sleeve serves no structural purpose?

if that is the case, a poor mans fix on this, can he simply ether have the head shop thread / plug that port on the head surface then have the heads re-surfaced? or even fill the hole with heat resistant epoxy, the kind that I've seen used when porting heads in race trucks?

only reason I am asking is with this 6.2 donor I have, once I get to it, and if I find the heads are cracked in this area. I'm wondering if I could just remove all the coolant or moisture from this cavity and plug the hole and allow a slightly longer life out of it. I don't trust the machine shop we have here in town, as soon as they see "crack" they won't touch it. so with that, if I need machine work done, it's find a shop further away, or hope they don't need but a valve job, do it myself and run it!
 

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Anything done to a cracked head is a bandaid not a fix. And I won't mess with anything cracked either so I commend that shop for being that way, it saves them from possible bad talk later. I don't promote buying Chinese stuff but if folks shop by cost alone buy promax heads, yes they are very poor quality but they may last a while and they do have valve seats where GEP still don't.
 

SnowDrift

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What is this?
1667178175723.png
Then my next question...
They are for coolant flow between the valves and when plumbed in will lead to the water crossover. If yoy look at my past pics of a head cut apart, that passage is a dead hole and air is trapped water will sit, this will allow flow and all the air to be purged from the system...
If a guy wants to use P400 heads, without the plumbing you added (or cannot due to using a factory intake setup), does the coolant move through the head in this area?
 

SnowDrift

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Too many distractions last evening for me to have been online asking questions. I think my question on the picture I marked up was #2 on my list of stupid questions yesterday. Did I really ask that? Yes, I really asked that.

You're going to pass that air through an intercooler, then, correct? I'm assuming that is the reason it is pointing forward and is positioned at the bottom.
 
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