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FASS DDRP/DRP Lift Pump Install

Just some notes for anyone else reading this thread considering a FASS pump.

Spoke with tech support once yesterday and again this morning with some questions in regards to the different pump models. I cannot tell you how helpful they were answering my questions, even based on using them for applications not listed, such as our 6.5's.

A concern I had was the ability of the pumps to flow on fail. Apparently neither the DRP, FA, or DMAX series pumps will flow on fail. The titanium series with the built in filter/water separator however, do have the ability to allow fuel to be pulled through by the IP in the event of a LP failure.

Both the FA and titanium series carry a lifetime warranty with the proper pre-pump filtration and registration of the pump. Which makes the price not as painful i suppose....

Amperage draw on the Titanium and FA series is about 4-7max, with the smaller pusher pumps being closer to 3-5 amps.
 
My only gripe about flow on fail is that none of my gas vehicles do it so why does it matter if my diesel allows it once I get a reliable pump on it? That's how I came to look past it but I do run far less miles than some may on their 6.5.

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Its the idea of not having power brakes and power steering at the same time just because your engine dies. Especially if towing heavy, freeway speed, dangerous position off road, etc.

Gas engine has a vacuum canister that still supplies vacuum to the power brake booster wth a dead engine.

IMO our brakes/ steering should have the automatic electric pump backup system like the medium duty trucks had even back in the 80's. If I were rich and famous to adapt one...

The other thing is the older pump design has a higher failure rate compared to newer pumps. So being broke down on the side of the road for a $40 part once every 3 years is stupid. 2 "tees" and a oneway valve added in is not a big deal when doing an upgrade.
 
Its the idea of not having power brakes and power steering at the same time just because your engine dies. Especially if towing heavy, freeway speed, dangerous position off road, etc.

Gas engine has a vacuum canister that still supplies vacuum to the power brake booster wth a dead engine.

IMO our brakes/ steering should have the automatic electric pump backup system like the medium duty trucks had even back in the 80's. If I were rich and famous to adapt one...

The other thing is the older pump design has a higher failure rate compared to newer pumps. So being broke down on the side of the road for a $40 part once every 3 years is stupid. 2 "tees" and a oneway valve added in is not a big deal when doing an upgrade.
I like this idea. All I need to add is 2 -6 y blocks and a 3/8 check valve

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You already have the fuel pressure gauge, so nothing to loose, and think of the cost of parts (labor also for people that don't diy) in place of a tow bill. Money saver.
 
Its the idea of not having power brakes and power steering at the same time just because your engine dies. Especially if towing heavy, freeway speed, dangerous position off road, etc.

Add a 'significant other' in the cab to the list, and it is one more factor to consider for going with flow-on-fail :D


Already had a lift pump go bad on me. Given that it was flow-on-fail, I just continued to drive.

Seeing as I also use the Burb to haul the family and RV, flow-on-fail is a requirement for my rig. If I decided to use a block-on-fail setup and it died with the wife in the truck, I would continue to hear about it *long* after the tow and truck was fixed . . .

Naturally, everybody is free to decide which path is the best for their rig and needs :)
 
I like this idea. All I need to add is 2 -6 y blocks and a 3/8 check valve

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I think I would prefer a ball valve instead of a check valve....I don't know how far I would drive before I realized I had a problem with the lift pump and this way I'd know I had a problem and addressed it ASAP. Or maybe an LED hooked up to a pressure sender that illuminated when pressure dropped below a certain threshold?
 
I think I would prefer a ball valve instead of a check valve....I don't know how far I would drive before I realized I had a problem with the lift pump and this way I'd know I had a problem and addressed it ASAP. Or maybe an LED hooked up to a pressure sender that illuminated when pressure dropped below a certain threshold?
They make a LED for this specifically for the Bosch VP44 equipped Dodges that the FASS DDRP pump is for. Because it has a min inlet pressure requirement like the DS4. It's cheap too if you don't have a gauge.

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A dash warning light, and or junkyard seatbelt buzzer, powered from the ignition on position, then pull the ground through a pressure sensor that is closed when no pressure and opens at 1 or 2 psi. This would also grab your attention when driving and LP ant do it's job like it should.

Are there some trucks that don't cycle LP during glowplug time? I learned something new yesterday, so that must be what I forgot to make space. If so, your wait to start might get annoying with a buzzer.

The issue I have with the ball valve is you still have the (albeit maybe slight) increased risk for crash from loosing power brakes and steering.
 
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