FASS DDRP/DRP Lift Pump Install

[Quadstar Tuning LLC]

I wrote this on another forum but moving it here to stir up some discussion as well.

Goal: Install a complete new fuel system that has enough flow to maintain consistent pressure during the variable demands of a maxxed out DS4 (I do my own tuning) injection pump while maintaining all factory features (listed below) and eliminating the annoying issues with 20+ year old parts:

• OPS activated lift pump relay
• Fuel Heater to enhance water separation
• Water drain on primary filter
• Water In Fuel (WIF) light on dash
• Cheap pre lift pump "strainer" for coarse filtration and pump protection. Most spin-on filters are too restrictive and un-necessary. And have clearance issues to ground.
• A simple flow-on-fail backup in case of pump failure. These pumps have proven extremely reliable on the Dodge VP44 platform, however.
• Replacement parts readily available

Result: 9 PSI of dead consistent fuel pressure with readily available parts and filters that you can get anywhere. Total cost < $300 and everything is new between the fuel tank sending unit and injection pump.

Parts List:
Fuel sending unit area: $11.70

• Russel 640830 – 3/8 o-ring flare/-6AN male tank line adapter (qty 1 @ $9.95)
• -6 female to 3/8 Pushlok Barb (qty 1 @ $1.75)
  
• New O-Ring installed from a master kit
  
• Fuel sock delete in-tank

Pre LP filter area: $7.99

• NAPA 3270/Wix 33270 with 3/8 ends - ~141 Micron, very free flowing(qty 1 @ $7.99). Used in lieu of tank sock and is correct spec per FASS's techline.
  
• 3/8 hose clamps (qty 2, came with pump)

Pump area: $144.00

• FASS DRP-02 High Performance Diesel Fuel Pump. ~65GPH @ 9PSI (qty 1 @ $132.50)
• M12x1.5 ORB /-6AN Male fittings (qty 2 @ $4.00)
• -6 female / 3/8 Pusklok Barb (qty 2 @ $1.75)
• 1/8 steel plate and pre-drilled angle welded to make bracket. Bolts came with pump
• Napa Gasket material roll cut to insulate aluminum pump to steel mounting plate

Primary Filter area: $76.74

• AcDelco 12642624 Duramax Kodiak style filter head with Primer, WIF sensor, and heater. ½” banjo inlet/outlet. Includes ACDelco TP3018 filter which is 98% at 4 Micron with water separation, built in heater, built in primer, and WIF sensor. (qty 1 @ $61.12)
  
• M14 ORB / -6 JIC Male 90* adapters (to replace banjos and adapt to 3/8) (qty 2 @ $5.56)
  
• M10x1.5 ORB to 1/8 NPT Female 90* fitting for fuel pressure sender to adapt to the DMAX air bleed screw on the filter head. (qty 1 @ $4.50)
  
• Electric fuel pressure gauge was already installed prior to this setup

Injection Pump area: $3.57

• -4 SAE ORB Male to -6 Male JIC – Bored out with carbide bit (This is a DIY FTB fitting) (qty 1 @ $1.82)
• -6 female / 3/8 Pusklok Barb (qty 1 @ $1.75)

Misc areas: $49.40

• Misc soldering and wiring supplies would vary per setup
• -6 Male/-6 Male union for free-flow emergency pump bypass (qty 1 @ $2)
• 3/8 black Pushlok hose (qty 20 @ $1.77)
• ½” Loom to protect hose from chafing & wear (qty 2 @ $5.00)
• Flameproof heat shield for fuel line coming up the inner fender near exhaust manifold on driver side – scored at junk yard off a trailblazer heater hose (qty 1 @ $0)

 

[Quadstar Tuning LLC]

Pictures! :
Parts Line-Up *note, didn't use the 120* fitting at IP but you can make whatever you want between the filter and IP since these are std JIC fitting sizes.

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Boring out the IP inlet fitting for DIY "FTB Mod"

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Pump ORB fittings installed to replace 90* banjos that come with the DDRP pump and eliminate any unnecessary bends in the fuel supply lines.

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Pump bracket welded up to maintain horizontal orientation and downward weep hole:

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Pump and pre filter installed. This was a major cost saving area over a spin on type filter:

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Dmax Kodiak/Topkick style filter in stock form:

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Filter Setup and Wired:

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Setting up WIF sensor pigtail by removing 12v reference wire:

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Fuel heater and WIF Wired into factory harness:

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Pressure gauge adapter and sender installed. The filter head gets its ground through the fuel heater setup for an accurate pressure reading from the electric sensor.

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Pump bypass fitting to carry in case of pump failure. Idea is to use the hand-primer on the filter after bypassing the pump during a roadside failure, and limp back home.

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Steady Pressure! Finally!! :

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[Quadstar Tuning LLC]

Important Considerations:

• Newer FASS DDRP pumps may be factory set ~18psi. You can change the pump bypass spring easily, but I did not have to with my N.O.S. DRP-02. My pump was MFG Feb of 2015.
• Regular truck Duramax filter heads do NOT have threaded inlets and are harder to adapt.
• I could have saved a few bucks on the Russell tank adapter fitting by getting it sourced at the hydraulic shop, but I ordered it previously.
• This pre-LP filter will need changed every 6-8k miles but it's cheap and easy insurance.
• Higher grades of pushlok hose are available from Parker. The stuff that comes with FASS pumps is blue and costs more. I'm not sure what the differences are but might be important for various ALT fuels.
• The FASS troubleshooting document(s) specifically state to mount the pump horizontally so the weep hole is facing down. This allows any moisture to exit the pump head, and that is how they mount on the Cummins trucks they were designed for.
• My prices are NOT all list prices. I shopped around for awhile and found all BRAND NEW parts at reasonable prices. The fittings are actual cost but the pump and dmax filter were smoking deals.

The pump is very quiet (can't hear or feel it over the engine). I have around 8k miles on it so far and it's been awesome. I run my truck pretty hard too, it's my R&D truck for tuning and workhorse for building the house.

Here's max throttle at max fuel command on the DS4 at 3000 RPM from a data log I did recently. Fuel pressure only drops .5 PSI between idle and max fuel command at max RPM. I love that this pump suits anything from a stock 1500 Yukon to a 3500HD bucket truck or HMMWV as long as it has a DS4 6.5 in it.

 

[Burning oil]

Nice job. As you know Im looking into trying to offer the same LP.

 

[n8in8or]

Nice write-up. My only complaint is just that it would have been nice for you to post this 9 months ago! I have one of the Raptor 100s from Leroy. My DB2 is set to run at 25psi and the Raptor has a little trouble keeping up with that kind of demand. Admittedly I am pushing the limits of that pump. I'll have to look into the FASS stuff, it's encouraging that the new ones are preset at 18psi, I'll have to contact them and see if it will meet my needs.

 

[Quadstar Tuning LLC]

Nice write-up. My only complaint is just that it would have been nice for you to post this 9 months ago! I have one of the Raptor 100s from Leroy. My DB2 is set to run at 25psi and the Raptor has a little trouble keeping up with that kind of demand. Admittedly I am pushing the limits of that pump. I'll have to look into the FASS stuff, it's encouraging that the new ones are preset at 18psi, I'll have to contact them and see if it will meet my needs.

The Raptor 100 flows more per specification. We might want to discuss what other issues you could be having.

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[n8in8or]

The Raptor 100 flows more per specification. We might want to discuss what other issues you could be having.

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Good info. Oh I wouldn't say I'm having "issues" necessarily, I'm just thinking that since my IP is set up to run at 25psi and the LP can only supply that much at idle then I'm presumig I'm leaving a little power on the table. I haven't stared at the fuel pressure gauge during a run, but I have seen it drop to 20 psi for sure. So am I giving up much flow with that drop in pressure? I don't know for sure. However, since my exhaust isn't 100% clear at full throttle I'd say I'm fine with my current setup. I'm just thinking about future upgrades and what-ifs.

 

[Quadstar Tuning LLC]

Good info. Oh I wouldn't say I'm having "issues" necessarily, I'm just thinking that since my IP is set up to run at 25psi and the LP can only supply that much at idle then I'm presumig I'm leaving a little power on the table. I haven't stared at the fuel pressure gauge during a run, but I have seen it drop to 20 psi for sure. So am I giving up much flow with that drop in pressure? I don't know for sure. However, since my exhaust isn't 100% clear at full throttle I'd say I'm fine with my current setup. I'm just thinking about future upgrades and what-ifs.

We can calculate your GPH requirements with mm^3 or cc and RPM. You have plenty of flow if you are only dropping 5psi. Pressure drop is only an issue if it falls below what you want the transfer pump to be seeing. For the DS4 at least.

You can still flow 100GPH at 0psi with the pump you have.

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[n8in8or]

We can calculate your GPH requirements with mm^3 or cc and RPM. You have plenty of flow if you are only dropping 5psi. Pressure drop is only an issue if it falls below what you want the transfer pump to be seeing. For the DS4 at least.

You can still flow 100GPH at 0psi with the pump you have.

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Yeah that's what we did when setting the IP up. The variable was that when I called Airdog they couldn't say with certainty what the pump volume was at 20-30psi pressures. They gave me their best guess and that was inline with the needs of the IP, but it doesn't appear that I have much of a cushion. (I'd have to do some digging to find the LP numbers provided and the calculation for setting the IP based on those numbers, I just know the math jived when the numbers were crunched). My other concern is that since the advance curve of a DB2 is affected by inlet pressure I was hoping it would stay more constant. I don't have any complaints in regard to power output, I just always have an eye toward optimizing my combo. I'm not sure if you can see my signature with tapatalk, but my IP is putting out 122mm^3 @ 3500rpm.

 

[Paveltolz]

Nicely done write up and a great source of information for those needing to do their own upgrades.
Much of it can be adapted to whatever pump you're looking to use as it allows one to see the job and recognize options to suite their needs/wants.
It is amazing how much of a difference having good fuel pressure makes where before, it was ok but, with the upgrade, wow!

 

[Quadstar Tuning LLC]

Nicely done write up and a great source of information for those needing to do their own upgrades.
Much of it can be adapted to whatever pump you're looking to use as it allows one to see the job and recognize options to suite their needs/wants.
It is amazing how much of a difference having good fuel pressure makes where before, it was ok but, with the upgrade, wow!

Thank you and that was the goal of it all. You can change the hose or tubing style and pump choice easily with all of these parts. I won't be changing anything though as it has been working flawlessly.

I just upgraded to a HX40 and I'll do that thread soon too.

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[JayTheCPA]

Good job!

Steady Pressure! Finally!! :

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Might want to buy some fuel as the setup probably will not do so well with sucking air

 

[Will L.]

Nice write up and well done.

 

[Quadstar Tuning LLC]

Good job!



Might want to buy some fuel as the setup probably will not do so well with sucking air

Darn Spectra sending unit reads red with nearly 8 gallons left. Only flaw in the system!

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[n8in8or]

Darn Spectra sending unit reads red with nearly 8 gallons left. Only flaw in the system!

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You need one of Leroy's metrum rods, though I doubt you feel like dropping your tank again.

 

[Quadstar Tuning LLC]

The 3/8 flows plenty. No need for larger. I toyed with the idea of just grafting my own pickup into a spectra core but haven't needed it yet. My bed is all anti seized and lifts off quickly. I raised it to put the Russell adapter fitting on.

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[n8in8or]

The 3/8 flows plenty. No need for larger. I toyed with the idea of just grafting my own pickup into a spectra core but haven't needed it yet. My bed is all anti seized and lifts off quickly. I raised it to put the Russell adapter fitting on.

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Oh, I just meant for a more accurate gauge reading. His sending unit uses a linear bobber so it gives an accurate reading through its range. Mine has about a 5 gallon reserve when the gauge reads Empty which is fine for me, but having accurate readings between Full and Empty is so nice. Yeah 3/8" is plenty.

 

[FellowTraveler]

Excellent.....

 

[HighSierra86]

First off, thank you for the great write up and pictures. I had been looking for info on a 6.5 FASS install, and of course the best info could be found here...

Was there any other reasons to choose the DRP-02 model?

I have been back and forth between the DRP and the RPDMAX pump which is supposed to be in the 8-10psi range. The newer DRP pumps are running 16-18psi factory as you mentioned.

I would love one of the adjustable models, but not worth the hefty price tag in my opinion.

 

[Quadstar Tuning LLC]

I went with this model because it fit the bill. I did the GPH calcs with some headroom for the DS4 and injector fuel return and determined there's no need for a 100 GPH or higher pump. Also the reliability reports of this pump were a huge attractor.

I know the relief valve spring only takes a matter of minutes to swap in a more recently manufactured unit but I haven't done it personally. I know Leroy had called them but haven't followed up since I'm travelling.

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