Duramax Intercooler Install

[THEFERMANATOR]

Thanks THEFERMANATOR,
I didn't even think about moving the condenser over! I plasma'd the opening for the lines already and made provisions for the lines with a new offset IC tank to replace the plastic one. Obviously your way was much easier, but I really didn't want the plastic tank LoL.

The plastic tank one is an 06+, 01-05 intercoolers are all aluminum.

 

[GJF]

OK so this should be as follows:
01-05 all aluminum tanks
06-09 same as early version but plastic tank on passenger side
10 to present different core slightly narrower but a lot taller than previous IC's, plastic end tank on passenger and outlet on passenger no longer curved towards the engine. The outlet is straight.

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

OK so this should be as follows:
01-05 all aluminum tanks
06-09 same as early version but plastic tank on passenger side
10 to present different core slightly narrower but a lot taller than previous IC's, plastic end tank on passenger and outlet on passenger no longer curved towards the engine. The outlet is straight.

06-10 are the same as 01-05 but with plastic passenger side end tank. 11+ for the LML has the larger intercooler in it.

 

[GJF]

I see... the one late model IC I bought was used from a salvage yard. The guy told me it was a 2010 and on. So i guess the IC I have was out of a 2011.

 

[GJF]

01-05 all aluminum tanks
06-10 same as early version but plastic tank on passenger side
11 to present different core slightly narrower but a lot taller than previous IC's, plastic end tank on passenger and outlet on passenger no longer curved towards the engine. The outlet is straight.

 

[GJF]

Anybody ever compare the size difference in height between a screw on fan clutch and a bolt on? Without cutting into the core support I can only get 1/4 clearance between the radiator and the fan clutch.

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

Anybody ever compare the size difference in height between a screw on fan clutch and a bolt on? Without cutting into the core support I can only get 1/4 clearance between the radiator and the fan clutch.

I just checked the HAYDEN catalog, and they are both 1.75" fan height. You could run an LBZ fan clutch(1.36" fan height), but it will be set for a higher temp before it kicks on and is meant for a MASSIVE 22" fan blade.

 

[GJF]

The fan I'm not worried about, it has plenty of space from the radiator. It's just the fan clutch is really close. I searched the web a bit, and found some guys running them close with no problems but I just think it's too close.....

 

[DieselSlug]

Looks good! I have a Cummins intercooler i want to install on my truck, but its a good bit thicker than the Duramax one you got there. Ive removed all my A/C too.

 

[john65td]

a cummins intercoller can be installed i did it in my previous swap. just no room for ac

 

[mug23]

I'm very interested in doing this upgrade. I have a/c and I want to keep it. Would I need to mod the area where the a/c condenser is located at? Can the condenser be left where it is?

 

[GJF]

To do it right the core support must be modified. The condenser stays where it is at. Search "Super "B" install" and you can see a different take on it.

 

[mug23]

Thanks for the info. Awesome fab skills on making it look very stock. Which year dmax intercooler would you think I should use for easiest installation without all the custom fab? Was it easy to move the a/c condenser forward bit more?

I would really like to make this mod with as less of a fab as much as possible as my welder sux big time and I don't have a plasma cutter to make the job easier.

 

[GJF]

01-05 all aluminum tanks
06-09 same as early version but plastic tank on passenger side.
Some say the all aluminum IC's crack under high boost. I'm sure it's true, as some guys really crank up boost with compounds. Cast tanks do flex but only to a certain degree then they fail. A set of fabricated tanks would fix that problem easy. But on the other hand a good 01-05 IC, would last forever on a 6.5. These motors will never see huge boost numbers reliably ever. So any 01-09 IC would be the easiest IC to get. A 4" grinder with some cut off wheels and a small wire feed would do the job fine, with the least amount of trouble. The plastic end tanks don't present any real problems, so if one of those are available then it will work equally. If you can find a used Duramax IC online or on Craigslist for $200 or under and a IC plumbing kit off ebay for $110. Not counting your time it could be had for under $350.

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

The stock DURAMAX intercoolers are pretty good to around 45 PSI, some have gone to 60+ and not had problems, but a few have cracked at 40. Many of them have also had small leaks in the bottom of the coolers where the bottom row goes into the header bracket. This isn't an issue for trucks running less than 20 pounds of boost.

 

[Husker6.5]

For those looking to do this, heres an all aluminum 01-05 intercooler for $100+ shipping.

http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showthread.php?t=41053

I picked my 01-04 LB7 I/C up off of FleaBay for a winning bid of $42 + $34 shipping two years ago, it's been sitting in the garage (along with the I/C off a first series I/C Dodge Cummins) awaiting that "What if I could adapt one of these to my '97 Burb" project. This install looks a little less intrusive/destructive of the radiator support than yours, 'Ferm, but the trade off appears to be moving the radiator core back. I understand your I/C install was done to facilitate your Duramax conversion, so there was a whole different set of clearance issues of radiator to engine.

Question, Thor: I notice that by moving back the radiator you get pretty close to the stock clutch and fan. Is there enough room to use the HD clutch w/Duramax fan upgrade? Reason I ask is that it often runs 105*-110*F here (40*+C) in Nebraska during the summer, and with the A/C on and the added heat/reduced airflow of the I/C through the radiator core, more airflow sitting in traffic is needed.

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

My radiator is only set back about an inch over where the stock radiator was. You could always run a 99+ spin on style water pump with an 06 LBZ fan clutch and an 01-05 DURAMAX fan blade. the 06 fan clutch is about a 1/2" shorter in overall height than the regular spin on fan clutch due to the LBZ having an even larger radiator and 2 fan shrouds.

 

[thor]

Thanks Thefermanator for posting up all the info on all the dmax intercoolers. Haven't been here for a while since i bought the new truck and i thought this thread got put on the back burner i don't get the emails that somebody has posted on here so i'll have to check the options on that one.

But to answer huskers question the biggest thing i noticed with the rad so close is that the fan clutch kicked in quit abit more often. When i first installed the intercooler i sat at the bloody dump for a hour in 42*C humidex think the temp was 35 and my truck never went over 98* but my AIT went to 79* clicked on the fast idle and i could watch the numbers drop off the AIT and the engine temp.

Can't answer the fan question cause i ran all stock and running with the intercooler all i noticed was AIT and EGT temps were lower and the fan kicked in i always thought it was broken till the intercooler went in.

And my trani did run a little hotter always wanted to run a little pusher fan there and on the oil cooler its pretty crazy how hot it is from one side of the rad to the other, i got a vid somewhere

But with that being said i didnt have A/C componits installed

 

[Husker6.5]

Well, Thor, I hope I don't have money down the drain when I purchased my D-Max fan/clutch bolt on upgrade for my '98 6.5 last year (REALLY made a difference on that 113*F day I drove back on I-76 from Denver at 80mph, temp gauge never went above 205 and usually was rock solid at 195*F). I'd like to be able to use it, especially with the I/C installed with the A/C condenser still there for the increased airflow through the I/C and radiator cores. Leaving everything mounted in front of the radiator support (A/C condenser, oil cooler and P/S-hydroboost cooler) in place makes issues like the clearance to the grille go away. The only debate I have with my self is whether to wait until I get the bucks to upgrade my turbo (to either an ATT or HX40II CKO, not sure yet which would be best for what my intended operating parameters will be) or do it now with my GM-8 on it later this spring/early summer. Tools for the sheet metal alteration is no problem, I used to do a lot of industrial maintenance and fabrication work in a food manufacturing facility, so I have a decent collection of air cutoffs, nibblers, aviation snips, etc and a flux/MIG wire feed welder at home. Plumbing the in/out tubing will be a piece of cake and a few clicks on eBay.

The only question I really have with your install (so far), that wasn't too clear in the pictures, is how did you relocate back the offset and remount the two upper brackets with the rubber inserts that bolt to the upper radiator support and go over the top of the radiator that locate it and hold it in place, or did you not reuse them/bother with retaining the upper part of the radiator? I also assume you trimmed the upper and lower radiator hoses to accommodate the setback of the radiator.

 

[Husker6.5]

Well, I think I answered my own question about the upper radiator mounting after watching one of your other videos (the one with the hand held temp scanner and the radiator). Looks like you threaded in some all-thread and bent it over and drilled a couple of holes(?) in the flange to slide the radiator on and hold it in place with a couple of nuts. Am I right?