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Duramax Brake Lines

Well.....A couple of nights ago I was driving home, about 40 minutes away, and I came to a red light and my brake pedal went to the floor. I pulled over in a parking lot to check. The line right underneath my seat blew out. I limped the truck home.
I ordered the Dorman lines along with Russell flex SS lines.
Price to my door, $152 for everything.
I might add, the Dorman SS lines are T304 Stainless.
I had the whole setup ready to go for SSTubes.com, but the price for the same parts was $299. So I went with the Dorman parts.
I will update the thread aa soon as I get them installed.
I checked all the lines. They are bad ugly. These truck should come with Ss brake lines from factory so no one has to go through this. Scarry feeling when your trying to stop and the pedal hits the floor. I had to use my Emergency Brake to help stop.
 
Ouch. You're lucky the e-brake still works! I'd wager most trucks that have rusty brake lines also have siezed e-brakes.
 
Wow, glad you made it ok RI Chevy Silveradoman. I know it is a helpless feeling when that happens. It happened to me twice with the old 1987 S-10 I use to have. I was not on the main road at speed though, but had one of the biggest loads of oak wood on it going up a hill side when it happened. I utilized 4 low til I got on the road then limped 1/4 mile to my uncles house where I unloaded the wood. I limped the truck back home from there at reduced speed. Another time I was at a buddies house and it happened, once again with gearing down and driving sensible I drove it about 4 miles to the house.

You guys mentioned E Brakes, heck I use them pretty regular when I am parking on some of these steep slopes around my house. I put it on first before I put the transmission in park, I suppose that keeps some pressure off the tranny, I don't know you guys tell me if I am wrong.
 
RI Chevy Silveradoman said:
Yup. Pawls are very stout on the Allisons.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
That's an understatement. It's about the biggest overbuilt part of a 1000/2400 series. It's a solid steel drum about 3/4" wide atatched directly to the output shaft. A solid steel arm anchored with a billet pin of almost an inch in diameter. And a stout rod with one STIFF spring that pushes the arm into the drum. It's rated to hold up to over 30K pounds of force to hold it in park.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
That's an understatement. It's about the biggest overbuilt part of a 1000/2400 series. It's a solid steel drum about 3/4" wide atatched directly to the output shaft. A solid steel arm anchored with a billet pin of almost an inch in diameter. And a stout rod with one STIFF spring that pushes the arm into the drum. It's rated to hold up to over 30K pounds of force to hold it in park.
Click to expand...
A cpuple of stories of park positions.
1: a guy that was a road foreman, was out hunting, spotted some antelopes, shoved his ford into park, took off on foot, went over a hill, when He came back his truck was gone. Walked and followed the tracks, YUP, at the bottom of a cutbank, standing on its nose was his ford truck. LOL
Another one.
2: an old outlaw over here, had a ford van, He also had a dog He called Sharky. He came into a welding shop I was hanging around in, it was about 20 below so He left his van running. He goes out and, sharky drove off with the van, making an immediate right turn, across hiway 59 north and run the van into someones house. LOL
This old outlaw also had a whore house called, "The Wild Horse Pavillion", not that I ever hung out over there any. LOL
 
Well... I got the lines done. I will tell you, not an easy job. Took me all day. Very dirty job. Lines were totally ugly and all of them under the drivers side were ready to go. The rears looked real good, but I had already bought the entire kit, so they got replaced. Drivers side front was the easiest. Passenger side and rears were the hardest.
I used the Dorman lines because of the cheaper cost. They looked very nice, and were made of T304 stainless, but the fit wasn't what I expected. One of the rear lines was about an inch too long. Had to custom fit it. I probably should have just purchased the sstubes.com lines, as they were probably better quality fit.
I also had to spring for new calipers, rotors, and pads while I was at it. There was literally NO bleeder screw left at all on my front calipers.
In the end, I now have an excellent brake pedal that doesn't fade and is firm and better than new.
 
I have never had any issues with rust, but I had been following this thread any way, mostly to see what is available out there for new brake lines, just in case I would ever have a problem with them.
Whenever I am doing a complete rebuild of a brake system, I take apart the new brake components, rinse them off then lube them up with DOT-5 fluid. I know there are many arguments against the DOT-5 but for the type of conditions I drive in over here, it works out real nice. Especially for My old wehicles that hardly ever get drove, but only a couple of times a year.
 
For those of you in the salt belt that don't have rotted lines yet, consider spraying Fluid Film on your fuel and brake lines from front to rear before each winter. It will help tremendously. I would even do it on stainless steel since stainless will still rust.
 
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