jrsavoie
Recruit
In my experience, Jasper will stand behind their engines, but you might have to change it out 4 times before you get a good oneJust make sure they don't get the engine from Bostic or Jasper.
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In my experience, Jasper will stand behind their engines, but you might have to change it out 4 times before you get a good oneJust make sure they don't get the engine from Bostic or Jasper.
When I bought mine, about year 2000, I think it was with a 3 year 100,000 mile warrantyFYI - I'm almost certian GM still offers a 6.5 motor, last I heard along with a 3yr warranty.....
Take the GMx turbos and sell them to someone with a 2.0 four banger who can use them. IMO, a 12cm housing hx35 is too tight, and a 14 only slightly better (gearing and transmission are big factors here). I have 4.10s with an automatic, and when I can afford the right hx40 it will go on my truck.iirc I was told the passenger side is a real bugger bear to pull off with studs and the engine still in the truck due to the HVAC box. you might need to remove the studs up and the rear of the engine.
I have also read that on the HX 35/40 turbos where they aren't very good trying to keep the boost psi below 15 and push extra power and better mileage combined, they are great for towing though. the GMx are very restrictive in the exhaust side. as I gather and learn more on the turbos that will fit these trucks and what each one does for what the driver wants to achieve, I want to look into something larger than the GMx but not as big as the HX35 so the exhaust isn't so restricted.
I have oftin thought about modifing the wastegate opening on a GMx so it would flow through easier since I have learned that as long as we keep our foot lighter on the pedal, less boost = better mileage and more boost = more power gain and possible destruction on the lower end (block cracking). but that is just in what I have read into. Of course me being the one who loves to tinker with stuff lol I have an old GM4 and a GM3 turbo to play with!!
Ha! I love doing well as an underdog.I glanced over this a time or two, but admit that I discounted it after seeing the author was doing the work outdoors under a tent. I just didn't take him serious. When doing searches for certain subjects, it kept popping up, so I decided to take a further look, then another, etc. It turns out that this guy seems to have really captured some details with his engine build. He made mention of Will and a few others, which I hold in high regard on the subject, so this got my attention. I did find where it had been linked before, but thought I would link here, as well.
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At what point should head studs be considered? It sounds like an HX40 might be in my far future, simply for better mileage, but I'm not going after 20 psi boost, so is it something to consider or just put in new bolts and leave it alone? One major concern has always been whether or not the heads can come off without pulling the engine if that had to happen, if a guy uses studs on one of these.
That's a helluva engine hoist you have there.As I mentioned, your site was, indeed helpful. I've referred to it several times and part of why I linked he here is because that way, I know exactly where it is that I can go back and find it quickly if needed. Thanks for taking the time to do that.
I don't have quite the rundown some have done, but have been taking pictures so we remember where wires are, etc. The bed is full of parts. It's getting closer, but there's still a long way to go.
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Dad's tool shed. The jib crane will be nicer than the overhead beam in his little shop from where we used to hoist. I'm certainly not complaining - I am very blessed to have access to such things.That's a helluva engine hoist you have there.
Now I'm completely ashamed of my tent.
Yes sir, if it's Ted King at Portland Engine Rebuilders, I was very surprised that he knew as much about the 6.5 as he did.The front end is sitting higher with the engine out. I'm eager to see what it looks like under the pan. I also found another rebuilder in Oregon and I don't even know how I got their information - perhaps from something in Hink's website. Couple older gentlemen that sounded like they knew their way around a 6.5 very well.
Nice. Really good guy too. And his head machinist helped me hand sand to fit @Twisted Steel Performance 's ceramic coatings on my main bearings, so they're willing to work hard too 'cause that stuff is hard as shit.yup, that's it. I was just going through your site and ran across the portion where you mention them and provide a link. They're out several months, but that doesn't matter much to me, since it isn't my daily driver.
Can confirm. Oil pan needs to be changed from HMMWV to truck.I'm pretty sure you'll need a truck oil pan since according to your sig the truck is 4x4. The ad mentions needing an oil pan and different oil pump too. Not sure if a different rear main seal would be needed as well
If the engine was a centermount turbo then new heads would be needed, but it looks like the 6.2 in the ad will bolt up to a side mount just fine.