ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
Yes ours are externally balanced so they need everything
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Decisions on engine options
- Thread starter SnowDrift
- Start date
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
Does your truck still look as good as it used to Snowdrift? IIRC it was really clean and a sharp looking truck.
SnowDrift
Ultra Conservative. ULTRA!
Thanks, Les. It's the same, but just with a few more miles on the ticker. It doesn't see salt.
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
Definitely deserves an engine
SnowDrift
Ultra Conservative. ULTRA!
Yeah, I agree. Not being self righteous about it, but it just has too much life left in it to give up on it. I've had a couple guys that found out about this little hiccup that have already tried to buy it. Heck, it can't be worth anything now anyhow, without a powerplant. I just figure I would regret it if it went down the road without me. It will likely become an heirloom.
On another note - anyone know about these guys? They're not too far from me, either.
I'm planning to call Pace Performance today - they're bigger on gassers, but have been more helpful in the past when the local dealer wasn't when I got some Vortec heads many moons ago. I'll see if they have any suggestions.
I also found a rebuilder in Texas last night, but can't remember the name of the place.
On another note - anyone know about these guys? They're not too far from me, either.
I'm planning to call Pace Performance today - they're bigger on gassers, but have been more helpful in the past when the local dealer wasn't when I got some Vortec heads many moons ago. I'll see if they have any suggestions.
I also found a rebuilder in Texas last night, but can't remember the name of the place.
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
Are you pulling the engine yourself? If so I'd pull the pan and check for cracks. If crack free it might be cheaper to fix your engine.
SnowDrift
Ultra Conservative. ULTRA!
You're the second person that has brought that up. My initial impression was that when a crank is broken, the block webs being broken are a given, which isn't necessarily true. I'll be finding out soon - it's close to coming out. We have some REALLY nice weather ahead of us, though, so it may be a little bit before we're back into it. Although I'm eager to get the pan pulled off, I'm still planning for the worst case scenario (but hoping for better news).
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Not always. Most often yes, but I always believe in tearing down the old one to onow exactly what you have. Also becomes good for the horse trading that might occur.
SnowDrift
Ultra Conservative. ULTRA!
Accurate (link above) gets $4700 plus core charge. Remanufacture. Nothing special, but he said they cover all the bulletins, etc. that were supposed to have come out on the engine - maybe not worth much since I doubt GM or Detroit would admit to some of their past sins. Three year/100k mile warranty, then indefinite warranty extension for $80/year thereafter. Supposed to have new timing set and multiple other new internals, some things checked. Crank turned - this bothers me, based on the stories I've heard.
They're also pretty close on timeframe - few weeks.
This actually sounds pretty attractive, but I'd want to see a copy of the warranty papers up front to see what the limitations are.
Nothing available from Pace
They're also pretty close on timeframe - few weeks.
This actually sounds pretty attractive, but I'd want to see a copy of the warranty papers up front to see what the limitations are.
Nothing available from Pace
JMJNet
Recruit
Just make sure they don't get the engine from Bostic or Jasper.
SnowDrift
Ultra Conservative. ULTRA!
If they supply the block, then that is what they do. If I supply my own, then they'll use my stuff.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
If they do the engine rebuilding, can you request the crank and maybe cam not to be turned? even if you supply a new crank? if they ca guarentee the block not to have any cracking. just my two cents, that might be worth looking into. have the pistons coated and you supply the crank and bearings. Have our resident pump expert go through your IP while they build it up.
SnowDrift
Ultra Conservative. ULTRA!
Not sure on any of the details like that. It didn't sound like I was talking to a technical guy, but rather an educated salesman. I'm not knocking him, just mentioning it.
Who is the pump expert? I assume someone here? My pump doesn't have that many miles on it. Actually, I have another new one somewhere.
Who is the pump expert? I assume someone here? My pump doesn't have that many miles on it. Actually, I have another new one somewhere.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
@Rockabillyrat will be the guy. he does the mechanical DB2's not sure if he's setup yet for the DS4's
SnowDrift
Ultra Conservative. ULTRA!
I glanced over this a time or two, but admit that I discounted it after seeing the author was doing the work outdoors under a tent. I just didn't take him serious. When doing searches for certain subjects, it kept popping up, so I decided to take a further look, then another, etc. It turns out that this guy seems to have really captured some details with his engine build. He made mention of Will and a few others, which I hold in high regard on the subject, so this got my attention. I did find where it had been linked before, but thought I would link here, as well.
At what point should head studs be considered? It sounds like an HX40 might be in my far future, simply for better mileage, but I'm not going after 20 psi boost, so is it something to consider or just put in new bolts and leave it alone? One major concern has always been whether or not the heads can come off without pulling the engine if that had to happen, if a guy uses studs on one of these.
GM 6.5 Diesel Performance And Durability Tips For The Do-It-Yourselfer
You can get much more power AND long life out of your GM 6.5 diesel and you can do it in your own garage with our how-tos and videos here...
www.65turbogarage.com
At what point should head studs be considered? It sounds like an HX40 might be in my far future, simply for better mileage, but I'm not going after 20 psi boost, so is it something to consider or just put in new bolts and leave it alone? One major concern has always been whether or not the heads can come off without pulling the engine if that had to happen, if a guy uses studs on one of these.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
iirc I was told the passenger side is a real bugger bear to pull off with studs and the engine still in the truck due to the HVAC box. you might need to remove the studs up and the rear of the engine.
I have also read that on the HX 35/40 turbos where they aren't very good trying to keep the boost psi below 15 and push extra power and better mileage combined, they are great for towing though. the GMx are very restrictive in the exhaust side. as I gather and learn more on the turbos that will fit these trucks and what each one does for what the driver wants to achieve, I want to look into something larger than the GMx but not as big as the HX35 so the exhaust isn't so restricted.
I have oftin thought about modifing the wastegate opening on a GMx so it would flow through easier since I have learned that as long as we keep our foot lighter on the pedal, less boost = better mileage and more boost = more power gain and possible destruction on the lower end (block cracking). but that is just in what I have read into. Of course me being the one who loves to tinker with stuff lol I have an old GM4 and a GM3 turbo to play with!!
I have also read that on the HX 35/40 turbos where they aren't very good trying to keep the boost psi below 15 and push extra power and better mileage combined, they are great for towing though. the GMx are very restrictive in the exhaust side. as I gather and learn more on the turbos that will fit these trucks and what each one does for what the driver wants to achieve, I want to look into something larger than the GMx but not as big as the HX35 so the exhaust isn't so restricted.
I have oftin thought about modifing the wastegate opening on a GMx so it would flow through easier since I have learned that as long as we keep our foot lighter on the pedal, less boost = better mileage and more boost = more power gain and possible destruction on the lower end (block cracking). but that is just in what I have read into. Of course me being the one who loves to tinker with stuff lol I have an old GM4 and a GM3 turbo to play with!!
Twisted Steel Performance
Anything worth doing is worth overdoing.
I glanced over this a time or two, but admit that I discounted it after seeing the author was doing the work outdoors under a tent. I just didn't take him serious. When doing searches for certain subjects, it kept popping up, so I decided to take a further look, then another, etc. It turns out that this guy seems to have really captured some details with his engine build. He made mention of Will and a few others, which I hold in high regard on the subject, so this got my attention. I did find where it had been linked before, but thought I would link here, as well.
GM 6.5 Diesel Performance And Durability Tips For The Do-It-Yourselfer
You can get much more power AND long life out of your GM 6.5 diesel and you can do it in your own garage with our how-tos and videos here...www.65turbogarage.com
At what point should head studs be considered? It sounds like an HX40 might be in my far future, simply for better mileage, but I'm not going after 20 psi boost, so is it something to consider or just put in new bolts and leave it alone? One major concern has always been whether or not the heads can come off without pulling the engine if that had to happen, if a guy uses studs on one of these.
He is on several forums, this one also me thinks, he likes to write these articles....
"Hink" I think..... @Hink
Twisted Steel Performance
Anything worth doing is worth overdoing.
FYI - I'm almost certian GM still offers a 6.5 motor, last I heard along with a 3yr warranty.....
SnowDrift
Ultra Conservative. ULTRA!
The local dealership I use and like said discontinued. Pace Performance said no dice also. I'm all ears if you find otherwise. My guess is that it would only be warrantied if they put the engine in, regardless. I could be wrong, though.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
The issue with the dealerships was every change in design or block cast change there was a different part number assigned.
sometimes I have gotten lucky with some of the older seasoned GM parts counter guys that knew how to search the discontinued list to see if anyone still had something showing in their warehouses stashed away.
sometimes I have gotten lucky with some of the older seasoned GM parts counter guys that knew how to search the discontinued list to see if anyone still had something showing in their warehouses stashed away.