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Current project, 64 VETTE

Question: How long after a build can a long block stay stored?
I had my 427 rebuilt around 2002 and has been in storage since. So little time and then life getting in the way...
Anyways, I still have the '69 vette it came out of and am now wondering if I have to tear it apart just because it sat for so long.


All depends on how it was built. If it was built using assembly grease and graphite moly lubes, they normally will adhere to the metals and protect them for manay many years. If it was put togetehr with just assembly oil or motor oil, then I would pull it down and inspect it, then put it back together before starting it. It is always cheaper to buy an oil pan gasket than it is to buy a crank kit.
 
Alright! My mechanic used ARP assembly lubes for everything.
The other concern was not rotating the assembly and allowing the springs to sit in one static position.
 
Alright! My mechanic used ARP assembly lubes for everything.
The other concern was not rotating the assembly and allowing the springs to sit in one static position.

If it was me and my HiPo 427 sitting for 10 years, I would have new valve springs put in (or at least check them for spring rate) and the heights reset and while I was at it, I'd buy an overhaul gasket set and do a teardown/inspection/reassemble.
Run of the mill 350 I might wing it if I knew it was assembled right for storage but no way on a 427 Vette motor.
 
Ah crud......that's what I get for putting the cart before the horse.
I'm still in the middle of overhauling the whole engine bay/front end.
Thanks for the reality check.
 
Yep, why risk it ya know? Flat tappet (if equipped) cam pre-lube can take a leave and you don't wanna start a new engine with bad lube.

It's widely known that this new fangled oil they sell doesn't treat flat tappet engines very well.. Use some ZDDP additive and maybe even some Lucas..
 
Still progressing on it, but it is going SLOWLY! Then again having to clean, detail, and fabricate alot of my own bracketry has ate up alot of time. Still have quite a few little odds and ends to take care of, but making headway.

It sure is orange.
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PML mid height valve covers painted up in aluminum colored ceramic paint(help keep them looking new, and prevent them from oxodizing down the road).
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Heres the evap in place, can't see it but I had to make brackets to mount it as the ones in the kit were a joke to say the least.
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CENTERFORCE dual friction clutch.
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Drivers side header and alternator mount installed.
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Passenger side header and A/C bracket installed.
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Got the A/C mounted, alternator in place,water pump, crank pulley, and fuel pump in..
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Gotten a bit more done to it(been a BAD week here lately, so not much got done). It's a little furthur along than this pic now, but not by much. Hopefully I can test fire it tommorrow if I can get a fuel leak fixxed. I drained the tank a month ago because it had bad fuel in it, and now the fuel tank sender seal is leaking. GM in there infinite wisdom made the sender in this one go in the bottom of the tank and keeps the fuel from leaking out. It had ethanol fuel in it and it dried the seal out once I drained the tank out, so gotta drop the sender and swap it out if I can get one in.

This is the only pic I have for now. All these little details are eating up ALOT of time.
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This thing has become the opitomy of one step forward and 3 steps back, but it LIVES! I went to put the fan shroud in it tonight, and with the way I rebuilt it from where it had been cut before I had to remove the water pump and alternator to get it in. So I decided what the heck I NEEDED to hear this thing run. I put power to the ignition after turning it over and getting fuel and oil pressure up, and it popped off almost instantly without a clatter from a lifter one. Still have quite ab it of work left, but man does it sound good for the little bit I ran it.

Heres a few pics before I pulled the water pump and stuff out to fit the fan shroud in.
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Maybe I can get my Dmax down to you so you can get it back on the road for me......I miss driving it
 
Well my luck of 1 step forward and 3 steps back continues. I got the radiator, shroud, water pump, condenser and all of the engine all together. Fileld it with coolant and got to run it for about 2 minutes before I noticed a fuel leak. Shut it down and tightened the fuel lines up to make sure. Fired it back up and seen it was pouring out the fuel pump vent hole. Pulled the pump off which is NOT easy to do on a VETTE with the accesories installed, and the diaphram tore half way around. Got a pump ordered for tommorrow, but it'll be Monday before I can get back on it. For the short time I got to run it though, she sounded SWEET! And man can this thing rev. I did not expect a street engine to rev like this thing does. Once I get the cam break in done, I'll get a video of it before I hook the rest of the exhaust up.

Only pic I got of it right now.
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Yep, not a fun job. Ended up doing it from underneath which wasn't much better. Should have the new HOLLEY in tommorrow to put back on Monday. Hopefully then I can finish the cam break in and do a video of it running.
 
Pic looks like an awfully small fuel line. 5/16"? Might starve that 4160 Holley. Then again, that SB isn't gonna take anything near 750 cfm of air flow so you won't need a boatload of fuel.
 
Pic looks like an awfully small fuel line. 5/16"? Might starve that 4160 Holley. Then again, that SB isn't gonna take anything near 750 cfm of air flow so you won't need a boatload of fuel.

Yep, it's a 5/16" hard line which is what came stock on the 327/365HP engine in 64. If I had a 750 on it I would be stepping it up, but I'm only shooting for a streetable 325-350HP out of it so it will work fine. And with a HOLLEY 110GPH mechanical comp pump pushing upo to it, I think it will be fine.
 
Once I get the engine done I'll get it uncovered and some exterior and interior shots up of it.
 
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