• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Courtesy Lights all out

SnowDrift

SnowDrift

Ultra Conservative. ULTRA!
Messages
3,328
Reaction score
4,496
Location
Central Ohio map dot
I'm chasing an issue on my '95. The fuse was blown, so I attempted to take out some bulbs I suspected were bad before replacing. When I put the new fuse in, it popped immediately. Is there anything these are "known for" before I go dismantling every light socket and switch to find the problem?

I expected to find that I had power on both sides of the fuse, but I do not.

Lights are as follows:

1) One at each corner under the dash near the door RH & LH
2) Lights in headliner
3) Lights in optional overhead console
4) Lights in each door RH & LH
5) Door switches, themselves, in the dash on each side RH & LH

Did I miss any?
 
Maybe a grounding issue? I read awhile back that a bad ground caused a lot of issues like these. Sounds like you may also have a dead short somewhere as well. When the fuses pop right away, usually means a short. Not to insult at all, just mentioning in passing. :D
 
Yep. It sounds like a hot wire shorted to ground in that circuit. I would start where the door hinges are.

Sent from my SCH-I535
 
Also I know in mine, the headlight switch itself has done this. The courtesy lights run through the headlight switch(the dome over ride button).
 
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
SnowDrift said:
I'd have not thought to disconnect the headlight switch. Why would this be the cause?

Nice tool! I didn't know something like this existed.
Click to expand...

They all run through the headlight switch. Th headlight switch has the dome lamp over ride button to shut them all off built into it for 95+
 
Occasionally, the switch is the problem. If not, and say the fuse still blows with the switch disconnected, that tells you it is in the circuit before the switch.

If you disconnect the switch, and the fuse does not blow, then pop the output wire from the connector. Reconnect the switch with the power going into, but not through the switch. Still good=good switch. pull the fuse out, reconnect the wire to the connector and chase the short from there. Then go to the wire goes to the door pin switch and where it goes through the door harness like BT Farm said. It was about 50/50 with me to find the bad headlight switch vs the door location- and the drivers door is usually it if its a door (most use).
 
Thanks for the information on the switch. Mine isn't that old. I put an OEM part in a few years back - I can't recall why, right now. Although I know a newer part doesn't always rule out a failure. If nothing else, I learned of a really neat tool. I'll put it on my wish list!

I found the problem. It was a short in the roof, underneath the headliner from a wire powering the overhead console. I found it by just starting to pull every bulb and switch. The overhead was the most difficult, so I left if for last. I wrapped the injury with electrical tape and put some wire loom around it to prevent a pinch in the future.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top