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Considering an 05 LLY K3500

Yeah, you are cheap as far as everything else out there. No, they all don't need all mods, but, even GM was putting revised mouthpieces on and it's the only proven air intake improvement over stock on any application/vehicle I have seen.

So not all LLY's Overheat - is this like Russian Roulette with 4 or 5 chambers loaded? o_O

Humidity actually helps engines run cooler. (Slows down combustion as well.) Hot dry air is worse than hot wet air. Further R134A more or less gives up north of 105 degrees out wet or dry. You have to get extreme over 105 for AC 'comfort'. That was the only bright spot is the LLY with the extreme overdriven fan ratio had ice cold air - when you could keep it on. Regardless 90 degrees is either edge of "winter" here.

Add 31 degrees.

Then it wasn't a worry about 200 degrees. It was What part of "RED" way past 200 in the gauge do the warnings chime and derate the engine or say 'stop hot trans'?
 
Actually it is more like 15-20% of them overheat last I checked. Yes GM realized they made some mistakes with the intake tract, and that is why they did the LBZ upgrade to overheaters. But not all of them overheat. Theres reports of people with overheaters doing a shortblock still overheating, replace the heads and the problem was gone. Others had to add oil coolers to stop it as engine swaps didn't stop it. And others have added in auxilary radiators to stop it. It's all a crap shoot. I wouldn't let it scare me off from one if it was me as I have kicked myself more than once for going with an LB7, and not doing the extra work to have made an LLY work in my BURB.
 
My cousin had an LLY on the farm, did good until it was North of 150k then the egr quit, then injectors, then egts ran 1300 cruising and boost wouldn't break 5psi but no codes just billowed black with the slightest bump of throttle. Ects ran 220-230 when this started. He traded it and the dealer had it cured pretty quick, it was a whole new truck when I test drove it 2 weeks later.

I figure if it made 280k miles pulling a 5'r and just had its first set of injectors and head gaskets then it likely didn't have overheating issues or it wouldn't be a 2 owner with some miles.
 
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tanman_2006 said:
My cousin had an LLY on the farm, did good until it was North of 150k then the egr quit, then injectors, then egts ran 1300 cruising and boost wouldn't break 5psi but no codes just billowed black with the slightest bump of throttle. Ects ran 220-230 when this started. He traded it and the dealer had it cured pretty quick, it was a whole new truck when I test drove it 2 weeks later.
Click to expand...
It developed an issue, it happens to many. As to injectors, NONE of them are immune. They ALL have issues despite evrybody saying its just LB7's that have problems. LLY's are actually the worst right now, followed by LBZ's. Many say LB7's are giving the least trouble now. If you think otherwise, do a search on P0087. Most of those problems are injectors going south.
 
What? People expect more than 100K out of injectors? :p

Seriously it's the early design of the pre LLY injectors and then lack of a good OEM fuel filter that hurts them on all makes/years. After the injector design change/improvement it's still the inadequate redesigned/updated OEM fuel filter helping kill injectors. GM's not alone in this cheap shortcut. IMO the Duramax fuel filter is better than the 5.9 HPCR Dodge fuel filter. But neither do a good job with water or filter down to the magic 2 microns Bosch recommends. Add extra/better filters including a dedicated water separator filter with heaters as needed.

One only needs to look at a big rig fuel filter system and their two separate filters... Yeah truckers know there is no such thing as clean water free diesel in The USA.
 
X2.
I don't understand why with the high volume fuel pumps everyone is running you don't see more centrifuges in use. It is the best thing going.

That's why they are in use in marine and international trucking companies. Not that Canada's fuel has snow in it, but if you are lower than Leroy's shop- don't drink the fuel.

I really am surprised all the d-max guys here aren't running them.
 
Dumm te dum dum... De dee dee.. and so on and so forth...
9 1/2 years, 308,000+ miles with nothing but Parker/Racor (OEM supplier) 4 micron coalescing filters....
 

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  • 7717_Rev_A_PFF50216_GM_Duramax_Diesel_Fuel Filter (1).pdf
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My lbz would limp with out a lift pump, even after fuel rail shims. Even after a Fass 150 was installed I could limp at wot under load.

I kept the lift pump and filters from that truck.
 
WarWagon said:
What? People expect more than 100K out of injectors? :p

Seriously it's the early design of the pre LLY injectors and then lack of a good OEM fuel filter that hurts them on all makes/years. After the injector design change/improvement it's still the inadequate redesigned/updated OEM fuel filter helping kill injectors. GM's not alone in this cheap shortcut. IMO the Duramax fuel filter is better than the 5.9 HPCR Dodge fuel filter. But neither do a good job with water or filter down to the magic 2 microns Bosch recommends. Add extra/better filters including a dedicated water separator filter with heaters as needed.

One only needs to look at a big rig fuel filter system and their two separate filters... Yeah truckers know there is no such thing as clean water free diesel in The USA.
Click to expand...
And what about guys that run 1 micron cat filters? They still have injector problems. With the cost of them people expect them to last the life of the truck now, but they are still a maintence item that should be factored in.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
And what about guys that run 1 micron cat filters? They still have injector problems. With the cost of them people expect them to last the life of the truck now, but they are still a maintenance item that should be factored in.
Click to expand...

Glad you asked. :writer:

I am one of The Guys that Run Cat filters.

So you take a wear item like a 6.5 injector that can go 174,288 miles (pic on left of cylinder) or a Duramax injector that can go 309,000 miles before it wears out and melts down the engine. What's the specific failure criteria? Fail a test on a Bosch injector test stand? Melt the engine down? White smoke leading to a injector test? Proactive replacement before they wear out? Point is this is a limited life item even in ideal conditions.

However the 100K+ available miles before wear out can be cut as short as the first time you fill up a new diesel pickup with bad fuel. "Gasoline, bugs, and water! Oh My!"

It's better to be BTfarm lucky. ;) However when SHTF and you publish a warning to others as a bad example you get to compare just how a CAT filter allows the fuel system to deliver the longer life. 1995 Suburban had the Cat water filter on it. 1993 Patch did not. Both got new fuel tanks from bad fuel. The Suburban was fine afterwards. Patch required an injection pump and new injectors with the life of the current ones cut short at 10,000 miles due to the bad fuel.

So the CAT or better water separators and fuel filters allow the injection system to reach the "wear out" mileage rather than see a dirt or water caused failure. Only a sniff test will help for gasoline. Even with the above you are time limited on bugs for corrosion and sitting on the other side of the filter and growing...

In summery cutting out 2 of 4 ways to kill injectors early is why the filters are worth it. (Dirt, water, and only help with bugs.)
 
Your missing the point, injectors fail regardless of what you do. Theres guys out thete running 1 micron filters, i remember one guy ran a small tank that filled from the main tank after a centrifuge, and he still lost injectors. Very rarely do you hear of an injector just going out and taking out an engine. Almost always there was warning signs that went ignored because it still ran and made good power. Theres people out there with known bad onjectors that add a 2nd cp3 so they stop coding, then they will scratch there heads when an injector hangs and takes the engine out.

And then theres 6.5s like mine where at 150k miles took out 5 pistons from bad injectors. Yes they should be considered maintence items imo, but the MAJORITY of them run MANY miles without so much as a hiccup. Most of your failures and problems you've experienced and talk of are more so in the bottom 5%, not the norm.
 
There are indicators when the injectors are letting go. Smoke issues, fuel in the oil, rough running. There are also an awful lot of 500k mile Duramax trucks on original injectors and running strong. One of the reasons I just did a UOA was to see if there was any fuel or coolant and there was none. I'm sure luck may have something to do with my good fortune but I'd like to think good care and maintenance on my part is the better part of it. I sure don't see any reason to buy a set of new injectors until there is a need.
 
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