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Yet another 6.5 build --- this one for towing

Twisted Steel Performance

Anything worth doing is worth overdoing.
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Location
Pauline, SC
Alright, some of you know about my build already, so I will bring others up to speed on what I have done so far and what my planes are for this motor.

First off, I bought a Military 6.5 N/A take out from Teds Trucks back 4 months ago. I planed to rebuild it 100% and have a strong motor for my "Horse hauler". I don't get in a hurry when building motors, I like to have lots of time and also things are done on a cash only basis with me...

When I tore it apart, it looked nearly new, I mean there wasn't even any black film on the inside parts, I think I got lucky....

This motor will have everything that turns, touches, slides against something, Ceramic coated in my shop by me. I did the porting of the heads and then coated the chambers & runners, this isn't my first time at doing this, but i will not advertise or try and sell anything in this thread either...

I will post pics of the things done to the motor so far, I am taking it to be balanced & machined Monday, then start the assembly. I will be using a DB2833 pump that will be set up by John at Unique Diesel, a Holset pro40 that will be turned into a hybrid by Ron Schoolcraft. I will not be finished with this build till the fall this year, it will be going into the truck in my sig and I have a NV4500 that will be going in at that time also.

Here are a few pics to start with..

The GEP heads have more metal in the runners and valve bowl than older heads do.

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Valve bowl area.

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Intake has lots of extra metal.

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Intake about half done.

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Exhaust about half done.

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Next post will follow to keep things short............
 
Alright, on of the first things I did was to prep and coat the valve assembly, rockers and shafts with a "dry film lube" to make everything very slick when assembled and also to prevent ware over the long term.

Before look at the parts.

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Parts prepped for coating, blasted with 120 grit aluminum oxide.

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.................
 
Also at the same time, I was working on the bearings to coat them also.

Before Bearings....

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After coating, this coating makes the bearings very slick...

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This is the stock cam coated.

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Valves and rockers after coating.

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Now for the heads, the pics didn't come out too good, but you can get the idea. The combustion chamber and entire cup area is coated with a "Thermal Barrier" for turbo, high compression motors. The runners are coated with a "Thermal Barrier" designed for inside runners, turbine housings, exhaust manifolds etc , it is a very hard, slick product and will stand up to 2000* constant temps. It is a heat stop, it helps prevent heat soak into the heads. I coated the area under the valve cover with a "Thermal Dispersant-oil shedding" product to help move heat away from the head.

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Coated cups..

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I am using Kennedy 18:1 Pistons, they came coated on the top & skirts, but I re-coated them with a newer type of coating and when the balancing is done, I will coat the under side with a Thermal Dispersant/oil shedding product.

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Well, that is enough for today, more to come ......... :cheers2:
 
I like where this is headed :)

I think it will turn out good, I do have a HP # in mind, but that will be seen later, I have done this lots for other folks ( the coating part ), and they keep coming back for more and they ALL have good things to say about how well it works and most even have dyno #'s to prove it..... with that said, I haven't seen anyone do this much to one of our oldies before, there might have been, I just haven't herd about one, so I thought that I would do it while I build my own motor, I do know for a fact that everything that I am applying to the parts works as advertized, it just isn't costing me as much as it would if I had to send it out and have done....
 
Thats gonna be one "SLICK" Power plant......Looks good, Nice work. :thumbsup:

You have access to all this Ceramic coating product and machining?......I'm assuming you're in the business/industry.

Is this ceramic coating a special recipe?
 
Thats gonna be one "SLICK" Power plant......Looks good, Nice work. :thumbsup:

You have access to all this Ceramic coating product and machining?......I'm assuming you're in the business/industry.

Is this ceramic coating a special recipe?

The mod's don't want me doing any advertising here, so I won't, I use the same product that 99% of all the high dollar shops use, almost all of them buy from Tech Line... I do have a license to purchase from them and get the shop only products they make. And for the machining & porting, well I do that as a hobby also, I have been doing it for a long time, I use to do a little drag bike racing when I was younger & stupid......:mad2:

We all know that the less rotating friction there is, the easier it is to find lost HP, and a added benefit to the coatings is that the parts last a LOT longer...
 
Maybe you should become a Site Vendor......Or maybe Your not looking for a second Job.

Me being a Non-Engine builder would be interested in a fully Coated and ported Bulid.....Especially from a member that is VERY familiar with the 6.5.


Just thinking out loud
 
Maybe you should become a Site Vendor......Or maybe Your not looking for a second Job.

Me being a Non-Engine builder would be interested in a fully Coated and ported Bulid.....Especially from a member that is VERY familiar with the 6.5.


Just thinking out loud

Well Louis, to tell you the truth, most 6.5 people and a lot of others for that matter don't know how expensive it can be to do this kind of work, or I should say have it done, the coating can get a little high in the dollars, even tho they do a very good job, and I have found that about the only costumer base around me is hard core race people. The mods here did PM me about becoming a vendor when my sig had more info in it, (then asked me to remove it, which I understood fully) but for the price, there just aren't enough people to make it worth the cash in the 6.5 world.

I haven't kept records of how much I have spent or how much the total will be for this motor, but I can say it will be paid for when done, and it will be cheaper than a newer truck, and I like the early 90's body style, so it was worth it to me.... about all I can get away with saying here is my email is in my sig if there are any questions.

And this is my job, I am a 1 man shop :thumbsup:
 
Well Louis, to tell you the truth, most 6.5 people and a lot of others for that matter don't know how expensive it can be to do this kind of work, or I should say have it done, the coating can get a little high in the dollars, even tho they do a very good job, and I have found that about the only costumer base around me is hard core race people. The mods here did PM me about becoming a vendor when my sig had more info in it, (then asked me to remove it, which I understood fully) but for the price, there just aren't enough people to make it worth the cash in the 6.5 world.

I haven't kept records of how much I have spent or how much the total will be for this motor, but I can say it will be paid for when done, and it will be cheaper than a newer truck, and I like the early 90's body style, so it was worth it to me.... about all I can get away with saying here is my email is in my sig if there are any questions.

And this is my job, I am a 1 man shop :thumbsup:


Thanks for the response....

Sorry, Not trying to stir the pot.....Fair Enough.....And That's That.
 
Perhpas using different coatings, and starting with a bored out 6.2L instead, but 635's original "Ultimate Build" was much like yours, and is now being discussed in Pavelotz's thread. Originally fully coated combustion chamber parts and the heads, intake, turbo, and exhaust headers all extrude honed.

Your GEP engine should be very strong and reliable.
 
Dam, I wish I new about that "Thermal Barrier" coating I would have had my new 6.5 heads done. Oh well there in and ant coming back off, Nice build!
 
Balancing & machining are done, here are the specs for the balancing.

RECIPROCATING WEIGHT

Piston - 929.3
pin - 307.7
locks - 4.4
Rings - 60.7
Rod small end - 333.7
TOTAL = 1635.8
Piston/throw x 2
Reciprocating weight = 3271.6
Balance factor x 50.0
RECIPROCATING WEIGHT = 1635.8


ROTATING WEIGHT

Insert - 56.2
Rod big end - 724.0
rods/Throw x 2
oil 5.0
ROTATING WEIGHT = 1565.4

TOTAL BOB WEIGHT = 3201.2
 
Got home and gave the block a good hot bath and decided to start the install of the crank, plasti-gauge showed .002 on all mains so I am good to go. My machinist checked the block out good and everything was good, no need to deck it or hone the crank bore.

Got the crank all lubed up and torked down, spins very good, the coatings make it super smooth and slippery, going great so far, tomorrow, prep the pistons for the coating on the underside and fit the rings to the bores...
 
Can't wait to see this come together and see the results of your build... Kinda inspiring me to start working on mine again. I just get burned out after spending soo much money and not seeing enough progress.

Excellent job on everything you have done so far. What kinda power numbers are you shooting / hoping for.. ??

Mike
 
I haven't given the numbers much thought Mike, I have a # in mind but I am not shooting for anything other than torq really, I know that HP will be there also, just don't know yet.... There is a dyno close by that I will use, more than once for tuning, right now I don't expect this to be done until the fall.... still lots that I will need for the motor to be all it can be..
 
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