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[Will L.]

Already ordered, Its a 93 century special w/ 3.3 v6 4 door. No clue why he likes this car so much. It’s alright but nothing special imo.

Apparently this tensioner is becoming a nla part right now. Rock supplier is discontinuing, autzone has 1 in the entire state of Nv. None of the other regular parts suppliers have any availability.

Thanks for the offer though!

 

[MrMarty51]

This 88 Buick is a POS for a vehicle. The lectronical windows barely moves when the button is pushed. RR window the regulator or some such is busted, window gets crooked then binds and has to be helped up.
The wifey used this for her DD and beat the crap out of it. Leaked oil bad so pulled the engine/transmission and resealed them, she just would not give up this car. While engine out pulled the crank and had it polished. New bearings, timing set and oil pump.
Then she got this Toyota thing. Another fortune spent doing the maintenance and fixing on that POS. Did You know that these little four cylinder engines will not run at all if the plug wires is in the least bit bad ? Never seen the likes of that before. So now that little pig is running real good.
Now I have too much invested in that puick and it runs so good that I wont get rid of it. The paint is faded out and rust showing through. Nasty bad dent RR door but in general the body is straight and it still has the hood ornament that people keep trying to steal. Every once in a while the ornament will be unwound and laying limp on the top of the radiator body support. They can never get it that last curl or so of spring so that it will come off. I wind the tension back tight and it once again stands proud.
Little car the body is solid and strong and dont rattle. It loves 75 MPH and uses no oil. And so now it is me that wont let it go. Been mighty handy having it while my truck is laid up, waiting for the back to heal.

 

[Will L.]

@MrMarty51 on those windows that dont move well:
Use silicon spray on the tracks where the glass runs- it lubricates well and helps. If willing to pull off door panels, spray liquid graphite on the cables of the window regulators. Operate the window up and down to get all the cable. The next step beyond that is removing the motor assembly that drives the regulator, clean off and fresh lube on the gears- the grease on those will be all dried up and crunchy by now., and in your climate something a little lighter than the original grease would be good- remember that grease had to not go liquid and drip out for places like mine and phoenix- so. In the cold it is like mud at best when new.

Yes this goes for the gmt400 or any older windows. Man I miss the big metal X regulators- 3 pins and a couple rollers. 1904 windows like that still work.SMH

 

[MrMarty51]

@MrMarty51 on those windows that dont move well:
Use silicon spray on the tracks where the glass runs- it lubricates well and helps. If willing to pull off door panels, spray liquid graphite on the cables of the window regulators. Operate the window up and down to get all the cable. The next step beyond that is removing the motor assembly that drives the regulator, clean off and fresh lube on the gears- the grease on those will be all dried up and crunchy by now., and in your climate something a little lighter than the original grease would be good- remember that grease had to not go liquid and drip out for places like mine and phoenix- so. In the cold it is like mud at best when new.

Yes this goes for the gmt400 or any older windows. Man I miss the big metal X regulators- 3 pins and a couple rollers. 1904 windows like that still work.SMH

And that I shall dooooh.
Except remove door panels, at least not until the doc gives me full release on the back surgery.