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Chrysler 2.7 - specifically 02 Concorde

treegump

treegump

Romans 3:22-24
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Martinsville, IN
The exhaust is rich but I haven't noticed poor acceleration or poor idling or even loss of power.

It has 170k miles and I don't want to sink a bunch of money in it because a) it's resale value is $1k and b)the timing tensioner, I think, is on it's way out

Anyhow - What would be the best place to start? Additive, O2, plugs/wires, other?

Thank you!
 
yeah a tuneup first is a wise choice for these engines at these miles.

Both this and you other car- the high mileage means you are dealing with some carbon build up. You can have a shop use the chemical and tool, or you can do the water trick yourself if comfortable with it. It’s like when people first add wmi to an engine and they talk about the smoke that comes out. The vaporized water steam cleans the carbon of pistons, valves, etc and helps the fuel burn better and sometimes helps a valve seal better if carbon is hanging it up.

catalytic converter is the issue with this technique. A shop will not remove it. If you -TEMPORARILY for the maintenance work of the carbon clean out-
remove the cat, clean the carbon build up, then reinstall the catalytic converter, that is best. Otherwise all that carbon will plug up you cat more.

Also if you do a test drive after doing the de-carbon, note the power. Then reinstall the cat and note the power, it is an easy way to tell if the cat is already plugged up and needing replacement.

a common thing used to be if the cat is plugged, people used rebar or similar to knock out the cat media and reinstall the empty cat. But more modern cars detect this and will create an issue. It also is illegal from EPA and possibly local smog laws- so I would never suggest doing that. If it were zombie apocalypse and I couldn’t get the car to accelerate to outrun zombies while people shooting ak47’s
 
Checking for codes is a good place to start. But you need to check your long and short term fuel trims to see if its really running rich. That's in live data stream. They should be close to 0 any thing over 15 (positive or negative) should be addressed.
 
This is the most risky method- if you dump too much to fast. Nowdays I put a tiny hole in a drinking plastic water bottle lid and squeeze it like a squirt gun to control how much water goes in. You should hear the rpm dip like it does in the video. Just not too much, he is a out limit of how much rpm drop I would want.

There is also spray can you buy at the store. This is annoying video, but he does show it and how to do it. Idk if it is better or worse than the water. I use water because free is for me!
 
You couldn't pay me enough to do an aggressive decarb on a 2.7l. That is one FRAGILE engine(it was designed when Chrysler partnered with Mercedes and was dabbling in euro designed engines). Check the plugs(champion platinums), make sure the throttle body and iac are clean, check for intake/exhaust leaks or anything that can effect fuel enrichment, and don't take chances with the tensioner and/or water pump. Resale on those things is low for good reason with that 2.7l engine, and it's long history of problems.
 
Glad you spoke up about the danger for him. That’s kinda scary that a decarb is that rough for the engine. When I was on the tool truck hitting 15-30 shops a day, I don’t think there was 2 days in a row that one car wasn’t getting a decarb because it is so effective on high mileage engines. Especially di gas.
 
Received the ok from the wife to trade the Concorde for something else. May wait till the stimulus check, assuming we can't refuse it. (Cause we're probably to have to pay for it eventually.)

Anyhow, I'm hoping I can get a 4wd SUV.. Won't be as good fuel mileage, but it'll be nice having something a little more versatile.
 
You Know I’m gonna push a gmt800 tahoe or suburban with the LS engine. Maybe not best mpg 15-20 depending how hard you drive it, but long term repair cost is so low.
A/c compressors and the window regulators go about every 100,000 miles on the safe side. Run the factory brake pads. Then put on a zillion miles. So reliable, and comfy drive.
The wifes 07 fj cruiser is the best v6 Toyota ever made and they last as long as the ls engine- but it is smaller, no where newr as comfy, lower mpg than her 01 2500 suburban, and other than really steep incline/ decline, turning radius- not much better off road. A nightmare to back out of angled parking. The huge back corner window is covered on the inside with interior. Seriously needs 2 rear cameras on 45° Angles.

The Honda suv’s are nice to drive and a good “soccer mom” suv. Not really for offroading hard, kinda like a minivan for country dirt roads and 4” of mud.

I’ve driven a ton of suvs- everybody always trades with me in the hummer so they can try it, and I am picky so I find the weak link in rigs quick usually. If you have any you are thinking of, I’ll let you know.

If you could pull it off, the jeeps getting the LS conversions from the North Las Vegas company are amazing. We really should have gotten the 4 door one for my wife (yeah, for my wife...haha). They build them well, and can do mild to wild- Like scary wild. I get the feeling your not into smokin all 4 from 0-60 though.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
That 2.7l engine was a hunk of $H!T from the word go. I worked for Dodge when they 1st came out and they were nothing but problems then.
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That's what I've heard. I believe it's been lasted this long because of prayer and God's grace.

It tickles me that my wife has fallen in love with the HHR after she became so upset with me even suggesting we get rid of her car, haha
 
@Will L. - I would love to get a newer Suburban or Tahoe (what about Yukon) - but what kind of mileage should I stay under?

If I were to get a jeep - it would probably be a 6 cylinder Cherokee or grand cherokee.

I have also considered the 4runner, or a 1/4 ton truck with 4 doors and cap. It would be nice to have something more secure for tools when traveling, instead of an open bed.

But I really do like the Chevy SUV's - they seem to be the best full size suv..
 
I have an 07 Tahoe sitting in the garage. Wife can no longer drive. Has about 125k on it. I might consider selling but it's probably worth around 8 grand or so.
 
btfarm said:
I have an 07 Tahoe sitting in the garage. Wife can no longer drive. Has about 125k on it. I might consider selling but it's probably worth around 8 grand or so.
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Thank you, but I'm sure the wife would not like it if I went that route, haha.

Unfortunately, my budget is probably under $4.5k with the stimulus and around $2500 without it.
 
Suburban, escalade, tahoe, yukon all the same basic rig. Slightly bigger or more options.
Any are good

if you get a 5.3 or 5.7 that has individual cylinder shot off (name changes by year) turn that off imo.
 
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The 5.7l hasn't been in an suv since 2000, and that was a gen 1 engine in a gmt400. No US sold gmt800 got a 5.7l(Mexico is a different story). DOD started for the gmt900 in 07, gmt800's were all gen 3 engines.
 
I've really been looking for 5.3 tahoes, yukons, and on occasion suburbans - but I'm rethinking my strategy as it's going to be my daily driver and I don't think I can get rid of my truck.

So - I'm thinking of either getting a 6cyl or 8 Cyl grand Cherokee, a scion, or an element. I'm thinking the grand Cherokee might be the best compromise between the full size vehicle/SUV and maybe still get slightly better mileage than a full size vehicle...

Thoughts?

(I'm branching on this thread because I see no reason for a separate post.) I'll ask admins to delete this thread as soon as I've rid myself of the Chrysler and found a new DD)
 
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