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C3500HD Tow pig

red

Being a lake bum in Texas
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Quickly made up some angle iron mud flat mounts. They sit further back than I would like (just behind the rear shackle hangers) but didn't require any trimming of the mud flaps to place them there. Eventually want them closer to the tire so they serve as the bottom/rear of the fenderwells and give better access to the hitch for easy hookup. A rear bumper is the next thing the bed needs to keep the law happy. Plan is to use essentially a piece of plate across the rear the same width as the box, down to the hitch. Use the commercial oval lights (6" or 7" whichever they are) mounted vertically alongside the outside edge of the frame rails. Brake/marker lights up top just under the box, reverse lights under them.

As for weight, with the old bed it sat on the overloads when empty vs now it has over an inch of clearance, and the truck drives noticeably quicker on acceleration haha.

20200701_115137.jpg
 

red

Being a lake bum in Texas
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Hopefully replaced the clutch hydraulics for the last time, 3 times within 14,000 miles is ridiculous. Well for the master it's actually the 4th since the 3rd one that was sent last week leaked from the hose connection due to a manufacturing defect. Wrapped it in the same exhaust wrap from the slave cylinder all the way up to the master cylinder, with the new exhaust crossover being wrapped as well it better not fail quickly again.

Best I can figure the EGT's from the crossover were cooking the fluid in the line/slave since it runs very close to those, then the hot fluid was breaking down the seal in the master cylinder because the last set (#2) the hose/slave looked alright but the master wasn't working correctly anymore.

Replaced the hydroboost unit as well, no more power steering fluid leaks now. SES and ABS lights are still on randomly but haven't plugged in to the computer yet. Can either find a longer usb cable so it can reach my desktop, or find a cheap laptop with windows.



When it comes to the bed I'll be making progress on that again soon for the smaller additions. My friend who is doing the main welding is tied up until September so I'll be focusing on the more minor additions. The layout plans:

Driver side: the aluminum 55-60 gallon fuel tank mounted as a saddle tank between the cab/axle, it will not stick out past the edge of the cab. A fuel filter and pump will be mounted between the frame and tank so when the stock tank gets fed it will be filtered already. Engine oil cooler moved to along the back of the cab with it's own fan.

Passenger side. Possibly a aux radiator or a different oil cooler mounted on the back of the cab. Some recovery boards behind that. Spare tire mounted vertically along the bed frame, even with the bottom of the truck frame rails. Then possibly a 24x18x18" storage box after the spare tire and before the axle. Nothing behind the axle.

Between the frame rails, lots of space due to the 8" bed frame. Thinking of placing the fuel cell from the 82 towards the front, between the wrecker mast and it's support legs. 30x12x12" size. The area between the support legs and the hitch would be a good place for some items that don't need to be reached often, thinking spare parts and tools. After the hitch/over the stock fuel tank I'm thinking of leaving that space as a kind of trunk area for regular small items. Lastly is the angled box from the wrecker bed which will be for lifting chains/equipment.

20200707_143558.jpg
 

red

Being a lake bum in Texas
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As posted in the other thread, during a trip to Dallas last week the clutch completely failed. Being away from home, and not having flat ground to pull the trans or equipment to pull the engine/trans out of this truck I limped it to a shop.

157k miles, original dual mass flywheel and pressure plate, looks like the clutch disk was replaced at some point.

Pressure plate springs were weak, ready for replacement. The clutch fork was bent, and the dual mass flywheel was done. It came out in pieces and could be spun by hand (hold the outer section and spin the inner, shouldn't be doable).

All new clutch components including the hydraulics again. Noticeably the softest working clutch pedal its ever had now. New solid flywheel as well.

20200723_120600.jpg20200723_120603.jpg
 

red

Being a lake bum in Texas
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Yowza...
How many miles on that clutch?
Flywheel and pressure plate appeared original, so 157,000 miles. Clutch disk looked like a replacement at some point, had a good amount of material left but wasn't new. Guessing the clutch disk was replaced somewhere around 100-120k mile mark.

Clutch moves easier now than it ever has. Thinking the flywheel was failing when I bought the truck and it finally decided enough is enough haha
 

red

Being a lake bum in Texas
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With that outta the way, first tank of fuel after the new clutch nets 13.5mpg, compared to the 12mpg before (since the SES light started intermittently showing up). When I first got the truck it averaged 15mpg.

Plugged my desktop into the truck with a long USB cable. Codes are:
35 active

34, 35, 36, 84, 99 historic.

84 and 99 are with the accelerator pedal position which acted up sometimes while in Utah last winter, driving through fresh snow days but hasn't misbehaved since then.

34, 35, 36 are all with the injection pump. 34 stepper motor fault, 35 and 36 injection pulse width response time.

Also the tach is off by almost 200rpm. Computer is reading 650rpm idle, cluster at 800-850rpm. Where that makes it interesting is with the axle gearing. Difference between 5.13 and 4.63 is about 150-200rpm at most speeds making the math/inaccurate gauge cluster unable to determine which gear set the truck has. Gonna lift up 1 set of rear tires and spin the wheels while counting driveshaft rotations to figure it out for certain.
 

MrMarty51

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Was a fleet truck, certainly possible it got the wrong alternator pulley at some point
I guess I should measure the alternator pulley on My truck. Just replaced the alternator on a Sunday, Oriellys was the only parts store open and they had three different ones in stock, I thought that was a little unusual until just now, it might be that they had all them in stock because they might innerchange with the gasser units. LOL
Anyone know what the actual diameter is suppose to be ?
 

MrMarty51

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Oh Yeah, I kept the core alternator, it was a huge $10.00 item so no sense in letting them have that. I could send You the pulley if You is needing it, and, it happens to be the correct size.
 

Duvall

6.5 lives matter
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Anyone know what the actual diameter is suppose to be ?
@MrMarty51

This is the correct Diameter.

Link is for the size. You can buy it wherever you'd like.

 

MrMarty51

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@MrMarty51

This is the correct Diameter.

Link is for the size. You can buy it wherever you'd like.

Did some measuring on the pulley of the alternator removed from the engine. Inside of grooves is 2-1/16th, on top of the ridges is 2-1/4 and the large outside end of the pulley is 2-7/16ths. It seems that this pulley is too small for the diesel engine and the pulley installed on the alternator that is in the truck seems even smaller, with the end of the pulley being at 2-3/8ths.
I was to the thinking that on the 2000 year trucks, and some years older, that, the RPMs would be measured off of the crank shaft position sensor.
Please correct Me if this is the wrong kind of thinking. LOL if it is, I will get the proper size of pulley ordered.
 

red

Being a lake bum in Texas
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Clarification on the fuel economy update. 13.5mpg with empty trailer attached. First fuel tank without a trailer after the clutch 15.5mpg, next 2 tanks 17mpg. All cruising at 60mph.

Just started working again so will be driving to west Texas every few weeks, about 220 miles each way. Either going to pick up a small truck for that, or get this truck setup to happily cruise at 75mph (4.10's and a gear vendors)
 

MrMarty51

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I made a trip over to Tongue River Reservoir for over the weekend. The engine was running hot, way too hot for My liking. It was hitting in at 217 degrees on the ALDL adaptor and app on the phone. the wifey was driving it at 70 to 75. coming back home I was driving, kept it at 60 to 62 and the temp stayed at the 190 range except when going up the long steep hills, then, it would climb just ever so slightly. No coolant on the dipstick and the coolant in the tank is not got anything nasty floating around in it and the radiator hose does not get hard shortly after starting the engine, now, with all that said and out of the way. I had adjusted the timing from -.53 and advanced it to -1.43 and the fuel mileage stepped up to 18 MPG from 17. That and I had installed the wicked wheel turbine and put a kit in the GM8 turbo before this trip. OH yeah, it apparently has not hurt the rings running that warm too as the oil level is still just above the full and there is no smoke on start up. LOL
I certainly would like to get one of them gear vendor units too.
 

ak diesel driver

6.5 driver
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Unless you get it really hot the rings seem to gradually get worse, at least that's what mine did. If it doesn't change in the next few thousand miles you should be good. Was your fan engaged? Another heat shedding option is to get a better turbo. The ATT is non waste gated so much more free flowing and allows more heat to pass through.
 

MrMarty51

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I have the Kennedy Diesel fan clutch installed, but, I seem to can not hear the fan kicking in. I could not with the other fan clutch too. I installed a new FC on My 93 with the 350 engine and could not hear that one too. I used to be able to hear them roar when the engine is first started but now, they do not seem to even do that. I guess I could give it a good run and get it good and heated up then pull over and see how much resistance to spin the fan blades, with the engine off of course. LOL
 

smokymtn65

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My next plans is to ge the coated radiator from Chris and then, possibly I`ll be looking into doing this conversion also too. That scared the beeeegeeezeerz outta Me when them temps went that high.
Okay, back to the regularly scheduled topic. LOL
Yes.. sorry Red for hijack
 
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