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borg warner 4401 T-case

Just got through rebuilding my NV4500 transmission and got everything back in the truck. But on the test drive when I got up some speed in 3rd and then 4th gear the borg warner 4401 transfer case starts jumping out of drive and is grinding until I push the clutch in. I can get it to go by shifting into high 4 wheel but as long as I try to drive in 2 wheel drive I just get a grinding noise. Any one else have this problem of a borg warner 4401 not staying in 2 wheel drive and have grinding noise until you lock it in high 4 wheel drive. It got me home but now afraid to move it until I find out what is going on. Any and all help is truly appreciated..
Well, got my bear and seal kit and chain and oil pump is supposed to be here in a day or so. But just read that I have to split the tone ring with a hammer and chisel. Now I don't have one of those ordered. At a loss again on this thing. Gotta see if I can get one air freight in here since my house's closing is TODAY. Thank God the buyer is a great guy and going to let me use my shop to finish up the truck. He even said he is a mechanic and will try to help me..
 
Yikes, gotta split a tone ring as part of rebuild? That sucks. Where did you get your rebuild info? Not doubting what has to be done, just would like to know for future reference as my next project is a k3500 1 ton dump with the same t-case
 
Just got through rebuilding my NV4500 transmission and got everything back in the truck. But on the test drive when I got up some speed in 3rd and then 4th gear the borg warner 4401 transfer case starts jumping out of drive and is grinding until I push the clutch in. I can get it to go by shifting into high 4 wheel but as long as I try to drive in 2 wheel drive I just get a grinding noise. Any one else have this problem of a borg warner 4401 not staying in 2 wheel drive and have grinding noise until you lock it in high 4 wheel drive. It got me home but now afraid to move it until I find out what is going on. Any and all help is truly appreciated..
Does anyone know why the main shaft will not come out of the rear case. Is there a snap ring or is it just not coming out of the rear output bearing. It has the clutch coil in this location and was wondering if this has something to do with the main shaft coming out of the rear case. I got my bearing/seal kit but can't change out there rear output bearing if I can't get the main shaft out of the rear case. Usually I figure these things out but have to admit. This one has me really stumped. Need some help on this situation...
 
Yikes, gotta split a tone ring as part of rebuild? That sucks. Where did you get your rebuild info? Not doubting what has to be done, just would like to know for future reference as my next project is a k3500 1 ton dump with the same t-case
I'm not sure that has to be done... Just yet anyway. I just got to get some advice first on why the main shaft will not come out of the rear case. I was thinking the clutch coil has something to do with it but I really need some input on this one. I usually figure these things out but not this time.. Need some input from someone who know what is going on here.. Is the main shaft just stuck in the rear output bearing or is there something like a snap ring I have to remove. I can't get to any of them that looks like it would make any difference in that bearing coming out of the rear case.. Just feeling really dumb at this point after staring at this thing for a couple of days while waiting on the bearing/seal kit to come in. HELP...PLEASE..
 
Yikes, gotta split a tone ring as part of rebuild? That sucks. Where did you get your rebuild info? Not doubting what has to be done, just would like to know for future reference as my next project is a k3500 1 ton dump with the same t-case
I have never heard of having to split a tone ring to get anything dismantled.
But I too do not have a book to look it up.
 
I'm not sure that has to be done... Just yet anyway. I just got to get some advice first on why the main shaft will not come out of the rear case. I was thinking the clutch coil has something to do with it but I really need some input on this one. I usually figure these things out but not this time.. Need some input from someone who know what is going on here.. Is the main shaft just stuck in the rear output bearing or is there something like a snap ring I have to remove. I can't get to any of them that looks like it would make any difference in that bearing coming out of the rear case.. Just feeling really dumb at this point after staring at this thing for a couple of days while waiting on the bearing/seal kit to come in. HELP...PLEASE..
You working without a book ?
Next step in this rebuild project would be to get an overhaul manual on the truck You are repairing.
Every piece of equipment I have and use, very first thing I do is get the book. If there is a component of that piece of equipment that is not covered in the repair book, then, I search and scrounge until I find the procedures for that component, then either print it out or purchase it.
Dont do this blind man. There most likely is some delicate procedures that can get 💩 busted if not following the proper order of things.
 
You working without a book ?
Next step in this rebuild project would be to get an overhaul manual on the truck You are repairing.
Every piece of equipment I have and use, very first thing I do is get the book. If there is a component of that piece of equipment that is not covered in the repair book, then, I search and scrounge until I find the procedures for that component, then either print it out or purchase it.
Dont do this blind man. There most likely is some delicate procedures that can get 💩 busted if not following the proper order of things.
I have always used the diagram that lays out the parts and have always been able to see where and what I have to do. But this time it would be pretty helpful with a manual.
 
I have always used the diagram that lays out the parts and have always been able to see where and what I have to do. But this time it would be pretty helpful with a manual.
Sometimes a manual can be purchased in electronic E form and downloaded as soon as purchased. Myself I prefer the hard copy thats printed in the book form.
Most parts stores packs a fair selection of aftermarket manuals. If this truck is a 6.5 diesel then I think the Chiltons book is better over tje Haynes manual. I did have one of each and the Haynes book had next to nothing for the 6.5 diesel engine. Chiltons covers it fully.
Not as good as the factory book, except, the AM book shows some work arounds if the factory tools are not available.
 
Sometimes a manual can be purchased in electronic E form and downloaded as soon as purchased. Myself I prefer the hard copy thats printed in the book form.
Most parts stores packs a fair selection of aftermarket manuals. If this truck is a 6.5 diesel then I think the Chiltons book is better over tje Haynes manual. I did have one of each and the Haynes book had next to nothing for the 6.5 diesel engine. Chiltons covers it fully.
Not as good as the factory book, except, the AM book shows some work arounds if the factory tools are not available.
I have both manuals and they don't go into the transfer case at all. They show a little on how to remove it and don't show a thing about tear down or rebuild. I already checked both of them. I really thought the Chilton manual would have shown more but they didn't either.
 
Just skimmed through this video, he manages to pull both shafts, hope it helps

This is a bw4407. Different to the bw4401. This one doesn't have the clutch coil in it that I can see. I have watched this video about 3 or 4 times in the last few days just hoping I would see something that would help. But thanks for the video. Anything could help.
 
My dyslexia strikes again! Sorry that wasn't more helpful

Have you given the folks over at Torque King 4x4 a call? I've only reached out to them about NV4500 specific questions, but they seemed pretty knowledgeable and may have some insight on your rebuild. Maybe also reach out to any known shop that rebuilds transmissions and cases, they may have some advice/ insight us keyboard warriors don't
 
My dyslexia strikes again! Sorry that wasn't more helpful

Have you given the folks over at Torque King 4x4 a call? I've only reached out to them about NV4500 specific questions, but they seemed pretty knowledgeable and may have some insight on your rebuild. Maybe also reach out to any known shop that rebuilds transmissions and cases, they may have some advice/ insight us keyboard warriors don't
A fellow at a auto parts told me to pull the tone ring off of the shaft, then remove the to snap rings, then remove the shaft from the bearing. And that was what I had to do to get the shaft out. It says "Do Not Remove" right on the side of the tone ring but I can find no reason why I should not reuse it. The person said they reuse them on the bw4401 so think I will use the one I have.
 
A fellow at a auto parts told me to pull the tone ring off of the shaft, then remove the to snap rings, then remove the shaft from the bearing. And that was what I had to do to get the shaft out. It says "Do Not Remove" right on the side of the tone ring but I can find no reason why I should not reuse it. The person said they reuse them on the bw4401 so think I will use the one I have.
Nice that You got it dismantled.
Yeah, no reason to not reuse the old tone ring. If You installed a new tone ring, it might change the gear boxes tone and create a whole new batch of problems.
For example, I on e told the wifey to SHUT UP ! ! ! !
That changed Her tone, then, thats when the fight started. 🤷‍♂️😵‍💫😹😹😹
 
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