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Blow by

Bison’s idea of a banjo fitting on the drain pan bolt really is a good idea for automatic return. Maybe a line retainer clip on one of the oil pan bolts swapped for a studded bolt. Just having a descent drain pan setup for it during oil changes is the only detail.
 
Will L. said:
Bison’s idea of a banjo fitting on the drain pan bolt really is a good idea for automatic return. Maybe a line retainer clip on one of the oil pan bolts swapped for a studded bolt. Just having a descent drain pan setup for it during oil changes is the only detail.
Click to expand...

Can you post in English?
 
I honestly would be afraid of a tube or hose connected to the oil drain plug. The thought of snagging it on something might lead to a sad situation
 
Ok. The oil return line cant just drop oil into the engine free air. That would allow crankcase pressure to flow backwards into the canister and defeat it.

Post #145, watch the top video of the provent, time 3:00-3:40. The most effective method is when the return line goes into the oil pan sump, into the liquid oil.

Adding a fitting into the oil pan would obviously be a pain in the neck. So if the drain hose ran down to the drain plug and could connect there- that solves this problem. But being able to unscrew the hose fitting from the drain plug hole would be hard at oil change time, and if it is a bulky hose sweeping into it- easily damaged.

So if a banjo fitting was in the end of the return hose, and the banjo bolt used as the drain plug bolt, this would allow the oil to return into the oil pan and the drain hose lug location.

The new bolt head would only stick out 1” more than factory.


Maybe you aren’t familiar with banjo fitting?
22AF18AC-B4E7-4A6E-BD59-29D3EAAA33F0.jpeg
So the barbed part on the right would be in the return oil hose. The hollow bolt would replace the factory drain plug.
I will try to find a video...
 
Ignore how this guy says to clean them. Only showing this so you can see how the hollow bolt uses crush washer on each side of the banjo fitting.

To clean, just treat like any crush washer. Brake cleaner and rag.

The replacement washers are pennies. But many people just put sand paper on anything flat and rub the washer on it to clean it up for reuse.

Getting the banjo bolt proper size to the drain plug would be the hardest part.

I would go to a hydraulic shop and bring drainplug. Take measurement for length of return hose and have them make a hose, just be sure to shoe the top of the hose attaches with a hose clamp.
 
@dbrannon79 I was reading through the new comments to this thread since Tuesday and you asked the question of using cotton inside of a catch can instead of stainless steel wool. ABSOLUTELY NOT!! Oily cotton is very susceptible to something known as Spontaneous Combustion at only room temperatures. Add underhood heat and you would have an almost certain unstoppable conflagration under your hood fed by the oil in the catch can and whatever engine grime, plastic/rubber parts nearby, etc. Ask our resident retired firefighter, Jody, about spontaneous combustion fires or what an engine fire can do to a vehicle driving down the road (remember his motorhome earlier this summer).
 
A good example of banjo bolts and fittings is front disk brake calipers. Most all of those are fed through banjo fittings.
They use copper washers on those. Most people dont know, even brand new copper washers should be annealed before using them. Getting them to red hot then letting them cool, or douse them. Use scotch brite to remove the crusties and scale. That process softens the copper so it will properly seal.
I have always just stuck them on then cinched down the bolts, without a problem.
 
When you buy crush washers they are ready to use, just install and tighten the bolt. They are annealed when they are made.

If you make one from a sheet of copper or old penny or something- yes anneal it.
 
Only you can't anneal a penny, the inner material will melt out like solder before the outer copper gets hot enough. here at work we keep assortments of those aluminum washers that have a rubber seal on the inside. they get used on all sorts of banjo bolts to the engines on the road trucks. I think those would work wonders since the pan plug doesn't need to be tightened like a brake line does. Though "some" think they need to use an impact on them! (quickie oil change places)
 
though I'm still skidish about the thought of it getting hit or snagged by something. I was thinking a person could drill and tap the lower cross member on the 2x4 trucks, fasten a flat plate to it that would extend back over the pan area back there for extra piece of mind.
 
I didnt open the hood on My truck to see what kind of clearance issues there would be.
I looked at the engine side cover plate that I have in the garage.
If the turbo drain back tube was to be cut out of that side plate cover, then a new hole the same size drilled into the cover and the turbo drain back tube welded into the new hole and another drain back tube welded into the old lower hole, the CC drain back could be routed into that new tube.
If someone has the hood on their truck open, probably have to crawl under to check it out to see if it would even be possible for the drain back for the turbo to fit between the block and the manifold if it were to be routed from farther up on the plate.
The next thing would be, if there would be room for another drain back if it were to be run straight out from the plate.
Just thinking about what someone else had posted about using that possibility.
 
Will L. said:
Ok. The oil return line cant just drop oil into the engine free air. That would allow crankcase pressure to flow backwards into the canister and defeat it.

Post #145, watch the top video of the provent, time 3:00-3:40. The most effective method is when the return line goes into the oil pan sump, into the liquid oil.

Adding a fitting into the oil pan would obviously be a pain in the neck. So if the drain hose ran down to the drain plug and could connect there- that solves this problem. But being able to unscrew the hose fitting from the drain plug hole would be hard at oil change time, and if it is a bulky hose sweeping into it- easily damaged.

So if a banjo fitting was in the end of the return hose, and the banjo bolt used as the drain plug bolt, this would allow the oil to return into the oil pan and the drain hose lug location.

The new bolt head would only stick out 1” more than factory.


Maybe you aren’t familiar with banjo fitting?
View attachment 67752
So the barbed part on the right would be in the return oil hose. The hollow bolt would replace the factory drain plug.
I will try to find a video...
Click to expand...

Could you run the return hose over the transmission and down to oil pan drain? Where can I get the correct size Banjo Bolt set-up. Need to do this install on the '94 Suburban as it has substantial blowby.
 
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Big T said:
Could you run the return hose over the transmission and down to oil pan drain? Where can I get the correct size Banjo Bolt set-up. Need to do this install on the '94 Suburban as it has substantial blowby.
Click to expand...

Yes you can. Idk pan bolt size- my suggestion would be taking it to a hydraulic shop to determine best option. You definitely don’t want some cheap hose for this- if the hose fails the engine is scrap metal. I would think about braided high heat hydraulic hose being made with a straight threaded piece on the other end, then a screw on barb fitting for a tiny piece of regular hose with hose clamps right where it connects to the CC.
 
Just out of curiosity, is there a plug or cover that can be accessed on the engine valley under the intake that would go into the cam / lifter area that's not pressurized by the oil pump? maybe something that can be used for a drain?
 
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