Woody35
Active Member
thats what she said!!!! lol
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Big Blue gets parked... For her buildup
- Thread starter BigBlueChevy
- Start date
thats what she said!!!! lol
BigBlueChevy
Compression Ignition Addict
I knew someone was going to crack a "shaft" joke there :rofl: That didn't take much. Wait till the front and rear drive-shafts come in. Seeing as there about 5ft long, I'm sure there will be plenty of room(or not :hihi: ) for shaft jokes.
To much snow on the ground today so after resting off the latest plowing blizzard I got to work cramming some numbers for my brake system. The dodge axle originally used 3/16" lines with 7/16" double flared ends and an M10 x 1 banjo bolt. The flex line that Tee's off at the axle has 3/8" fittings. Aside from the fact that the brakes lines where all banged up anyway, I wasn't about to mess around trying to get the old setup to work. I scrapped everything on the axle and put an order in from jegs.
It starts out at the caliper running a 10mm banjo with a -4AN stub. Then into a -4an braided stainless flex hose at 14" long(short as they come sadly). That will go to the axle where a -4an to 3/8" adapter will connect to the stainless steel brake hard brake lines. That will then go right into the T-fitting mounted on the axle.
Should see all of that either Tuesday or Wednesday, which gives time to get the new pinion yoke on the T-case and get the driveshaft mounted.
To much snow on the ground today so after resting off the latest plowing blizzard I got to work cramming some numbers for my brake system. The dodge axle originally used 3/16" lines with 7/16" double flared ends and an M10 x 1 banjo bolt. The flex line that Tee's off at the axle has 3/8" fittings. Aside from the fact that the brakes lines where all banged up anyway, I wasn't about to mess around trying to get the old setup to work. I scrapped everything on the axle and put an order in from jegs.
It starts out at the caliper running a 10mm banjo with a -4AN stub. Then into a -4an braided stainless flex hose at 14" long(short as they come sadly). That will go to the axle where a -4an to 3/8" adapter will connect to the stainless steel brake hard brake lines. That will then go right into the T-fitting mounted on the axle.
Should see all of that either Tuesday or Wednesday, which gives time to get the new pinion yoke on the T-case and get the driveshaft mounted.
BigBlueChevy
Compression Ignition Addict
Nothing beats some great progress on a day of overcast. Though it was warm enough to not warrant needing a jacket so no complaints. I can finally feel this thing really coming together now 
The new input yoke is in on the T-case, and the intermediate shaft is in. Not to mention I got surprised this morning by fedex, who decided to deliver my order from Jegs before I was even awake. And on that note, my rear brakes are plumbed. Just have too tack some mounts onto the axle to keep the lines in place. Needless to say, I'm really pleased with how well everything is coming together:agreed:
Even fired up the old girl and let the new driveshaft spin for a little bit. If I wasn't low on fuel I could have sat down there for a while watching the shaft spinning away:hihi:
The new input yoke is in on the T-case, and the intermediate shaft is in. Not to mention I got surprised this morning by fedex, who decided to deliver my order from Jegs before I was even awake. And on that note, my rear brakes are plumbed. Just have too tack some mounts onto the axle to keep the lines in place. Needless to say, I'm really pleased with how well everything is coming together:agreed:Even fired up the old girl and let the new driveshaft spin for a little bit. If I wasn't low on fuel I could have sat down there for a while watching the shaft spinning away:hihi:
iamdave0887
Here Comes Chaos.....
Looks awesome so far jamie! The only thing that would bug me if this was my setup would be the u-bolt style hold-downs for the u-joints. I'd personally probably end up over-tightening them and damaging the U-joint cap/bearings. With the straps there no way for an idiot like me to overtighten them. :hihi:
I've been tossing around the idea of sticking an NP205 in my blazer in place of the NP208. What'd that driveshaft run you? It looks great.
I've been tossing around the idea of sticking an NP205 in my blazer in place of the NP208. What'd that driveshaft run you? It looks great.
Slim Shady
DEATH BEFORE DISHONOR
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Very Very Nice Jamie, Excellent work.
BigBlueChevy
Compression Ignition Addict
Why thank you gentlemen :tiphat
You know I was worried about damaging the bearing caps too with torquing them down to much, but you will know when there are tight. I just don't recommend using anything other than a wrench to tighten them(no air ratchets or impact guns). I think that would be what utimatly prevents damaging them. That and adding a little lockttie on the threads to make sure everything stays where it is. I'll wind up driving the truck around for a day or so to break everything in, the go back and re torque everything to make sure nothing wiggles its way loose.
The intermediate shaft ran me $375. That includes the yoke(which ran about $70 on its own), and the straps. So for a short shaft like that around $300 depending on length and what size U joints you are running. I know my rear driveshaft will run a little more only because the AAM rear I believe runs a 1410 series U-joint, the T-case output is a 1350. I'm also not set on going with either a double cardan or standard 2 yoke shaft... I'm going to call up Tom Woods and see what he recommends.
Dave if you haven't found one yet I can recommend a great place for transfer cases where I got my divorced 205. The guy rebuilds them all really well and his prices are very reasonable.
You know I was worried about damaging the bearing caps too with torquing them down to much, but you will know when there are tight. I just don't recommend using anything other than a wrench to tighten them(no air ratchets or impact guns). I think that would be what utimatly prevents damaging them. That and adding a little lockttie on the threads to make sure everything stays where it is. I'll wind up driving the truck around for a day or so to break everything in, the go back and re torque everything to make sure nothing wiggles its way loose.
The intermediate shaft ran me $375. That includes the yoke(which ran about $70 on its own), and the straps. So for a short shaft like that around $300 depending on length and what size U joints you are running. I know my rear driveshaft will run a little more only because the AAM rear I believe runs a 1410 series U-joint, the T-case output is a 1350. I'm also not set on going with either a double cardan or standard 2 yoke shaft... I'm going to call up Tom Woods and see what he recommends.
Dave if you haven't found one yet I can recommend a great place for transfer cases where I got my divorced 205. The guy rebuilds them all really well and his prices are very reasonable.
tanman_2006
Just a farm kid...
This thread has been "Dead" for awhile but I have a few questions that I didnt see mentioned in your thread.
What front leaf kit (Mounts, leafs, crossover, ect) did you use and what mods did that take? What rear leafs did you use?
Awesome build btw!
What front leaf kit (Mounts, leafs, crossover, ect) did you use and what mods did that take? What rear leafs did you use?
Awesome build btw!
btfarm
America First!
Jamie hasn't been on here since last April. Don't know what happened to him.
tanman_2006
Just a farm kid...
In April he posted a pic of a furd 7.3l
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