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Awsome 6.2 sucks air cleaner bolt, ate head but have a 6.5 set of heads

gmctrucksrock

gmctrucksrock

gmctrucksrock
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Location
Anchor Point, Alaska
best running 6.2 i ever owned got 18 miles per gallon with three drums of oil in bed, 1983 three speed with Ganny gear, 4;11 gears 3/4 ton ate air cleaner bolt and lost head i have 6.5 heads with diamond pre cups to replace and stock turbo and all hardware to possibly put on it came of a 93 . Should I? can it be ran on v belt system?I would like to keep vbelt system. can I use air pump in distributor hole? or better off running n/a any tips or advice
 
heads should bolt right on. turbo should be a bolt on as well. I'd probably TM it rather than use the vac pump Hmmmm this isn't the burb in your sig is it? if it's the old body style AC box would be in the way of the turbo
 
The stock turbo is restrictive at higher rpm. You will have more power to accelerate up to speed, but can reportedly loose mpg on the highway. especially with 4.11s. So the story goes...

That said my Hummer was n/a with a soft rod knock when I bought it. engine went boom , and in goes a new optimizer long block, rebuilt db2 Ip factory settings, while it was out and used same injectors. SAME MPG. Then a few years later I just put on a gm6 with homemade turbo master, and restricted the exhaust worse than it was after the turbo for the down pipe being 1/2" smaller for about 3' long. put in used turbo injectors with approx. 80,000 miles on them and turned up fuel screw 1/2 turn + to supply the turbo (only needed 1/4 turn for turbo factory settings) and much faster acceleration I can still do same speed highway, but it is more prone to overheating, from higher egts. SAME EXACT MPG. A 4" exhaust will help the restriction some and will drop egt's, I just have not had time yet.

I think it is simply the engine does not have to work as hard to produce the required power to get it up to speed, or to keep it there. If you do a lot of highway driving there is a bit to consider-- maybe different results with your way more aerodynamic and lighter truck? If you keep your rpm at 2200 or under most of the time then it is a no brainer. If you put a ton of miles on it get the ATT, it increases efficiency so much it will pay for itself in fuel savings in no time. I would, I just can't fit it in my rig.

You will need to reset the pop pressure of your injectors, or get different ones for the turbo. If you go n/a, I would question which precups to run.

The belt system does not have to change iirc, not sure, but more torque from the engine could cause more slippage / chirping. A fd balancer would off set that I believe.

I would pick up the arp studs from Leroy instead of buying new tty head bolts. Victor Reinz or Felpro gaskets.

If he doesn't respond here, pm WarWagon this sounds like his favorite world of changes.

Les--3 drums in the bed heck of a suburban...:hihi:
 
its a 83 old school pickup I pulled out of junk yard and put a 6.5 n/a pump on and holy cow what a motor, wasnt a cummins but i had never had one run better, but no ac on firewall, so turbo will fit but use serpentine system? and also where can i run a tach wire to old school 6.2
 
Use oil pump drive with the 2 wire output, or you can pick up kits that use external pulley pick up sensors (somebody jump in wtf is the name?) What alternator are you running, and any plans to change style? Some alts have signal output to tach.
 
have a aftermarket tack was wondering how to get signal and have old school alternator, and a air pump so not a big deal just was hoping for quick fix like 350 distrbutor output spot, so what im getting from the comments stock turbo will hinder fuel economy and since im all time and no money to buy a att or such i should just throw heads on keep n/a and run her its just a work truck, wood, coal, occasionally tow something rusty but been a great rig for the 400 bucks I have in it.
 
For a tach signal use the oil pump drive as Will suggested. you'll find it from 91 up to 93 before the DB4 setup. it was used for the 4l80E.
 
gmctrucksrock said:
have a aftermarket tack was wondering how to get signal and have old school alternator, and a air pump so not a big deal just was hoping for quick fix like 350 distrbutor output spot, so what im getting from the comments stock turbo will hinder fuel economy and since im all time and no money to buy a att or such i should just throw heads on keep n/a and run her its just a work truck, wood, coal, occasionally tow something rusty but been a great rig for the 400 bucks I have in it.
Click to expand...

you might lose a lil bit of mileage but it is mainly controlled by your right foot
 
You might not loose mpg, I didn't. Just some extra work if it doesn't get you what ya need. Gaskets and injectors are about the only thing wasted if you put on the turbo then decide to change it back. Even at that if you can adjust the pop pressures yourself even less of a loss. I would try it.



The engine speed sensor/oil pump drive ,that can be used to send signal to a tach Drops in the spot you mentioned. Check ebay or one of the guys here that may have one from a hmmwv take out.

I tried to load picture but cant, sorry -google"engine speed sensor/oil pump drive 6.5". You would also need the gasket, hold down clamp.
 

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heater controls? meh, It's Alaska just wire them suckers on high all the time! Or maybe I forgot about that.
 
might be on what level of options you got then. most of the ones I had/used have been the lower/work editions
 
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I have set of gaskets left over from by burban I ordered whole gasket set then tore it down to find my head gaskets were 10 over so have set laying around but thanks for offer I think Ill go turbo just cause I haven't done it in old body style kinda like having the extra power of a turbo, I need To replace front clip too so seems like the time to yank it and work on it with all the extra room I have a nice one in back yard just begging to be put on something, my fenders are starting to pull out like airplane wings lol
 
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