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Another fan clutch option, ElectroMag type.

Will be late June-early July if all gos to plan.

{Summon a Veruca Salt voice}: But I want it *nooowwww*!!!!

What is the game plan for cooling the A/C coils? Just run the fan at 100% when the A/C is on?

Looked into a Horton and the limiting factor is that I want a pusher fan in front (in addition to the Horton) so that I do not load the motor just to run the A/C. Challenge in the Burb is that there is very little space for a pusher fan in front of the aux coolers.

EVANS had done tests and found that running higher temps in diesels equate a 2.04 to 4.04 increase in mpgs on big rigs while the coolant alone made no difference.

Read the EVANS literature as well and my take-away was that the the waterless coolant did not actually allow the motor to run hotter (increase the redline), but rather EVANS provided guidance that the operators should re-tune their cooling methodology to let the motors run warmer for better efficiency. So it is basically a marketing gimmick where EVANS is stating what is necessary for better fuel economy (which is common knowledge) and implying that their product is the cure as it improves cooling by minimizing cavitation.
 
{Summon a Veruca Salt voice}: But I want it *nooowwww*!!!!

What is the game plan for cooling the A/C coils? Just run the fan at 100% when the A/C is on?

Looked into a Horton and the limiting factor is that I want a pusher fan in front (in addition to the Horton) so that I do not load the motor just to run the A/C. Challenge in the Burb is that there is very little space for a pusher fan in front of the aux coolers.



Read the EVANS literature as well and my take-away was that the the waterless coolant did not actually allow the motor to run hotter (increase the redline), but rather EVANS provided guidance that the operators should re-tune their cooling methodology to let the motors run warmer for better efficiency. So it is basically a marketing gimmick where EVANS is stating what is necessary for better fuel economy (which is common knowledge) and implying that their product is the cure as it improves cooling by minimizing cavitation.

Did you read the 'PAVE' report from Auburn University on the EVANS test, or?

Nowadays everything is a marketing ploy one way or the other 'hotter/warmer' semantics aside elimination of steaming/cavitation by removing HO2 from the equation is not a gimmick.

In reality pressurized EGW cooling systems allow for different boiling temps for the water period and it still steams and causes cavitation around valves and cylinder galleys because of the HO2 content no matter what the system pressure is "it has been as still is such a big problem GM runs steam lines on the later 6.5TD and LS series gassers."

I suspect your not happy with the EVANS you are using, or?
 
That looks like it's 1/2" - 3/4" closer to the radiator. My fan sticks out from the shroud.

View attachment 45333

View attachment 45334
You could be right, it looks like it. I'll meassure to confirm.
With my set up the clutch is completely behind the fan (to engine side) so there may be more clearance after all?
The stock clutch is in front of fan.
 
I read the literature that EVANS had available when I started to convert over to waterless which covered (at the time) municipal vehicle experiences. In short, it backed up common knowledge that vehicles prefer to run in their temperature sweet-spot.

In reviewing EVANS current information, am noticing that the guidance to drill a 3/16" hole in the pressure cap is no longer present and there is narrative to let the system pressurize due to the coolant attracting moisture. In addition to the relief hole, am noticing that there is new guidance on maximum water content and purge procedures if it is too high. So it looks like I need to go out and buy some new pressure caps now.

In terms of my own use, still plan to continue using waterless coolant for its many benefits. Moving the operating temperature upward while limited to a viscous fan clutch is not one of them (to me). Especially when EVANS states that the operating temperature might naturally move upward (implication that it does not do heat exchange as well as 50/50). Naturally, we are free to follow our own paths and decide what is the best for our rigs. :happy:


Seeing as this thread is for the electro clutch fan, we are probably better off by moving any coolant discussions over to the waterless coolant thread (http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/waterless-coolant.43923/). ;)
 
Yes.

I looked at many "big rig" clutches to see if anything would work. In the end there were to many things wrong with each one that made it very difficult to apply to the 6.5
I ended up making my own.
 
Leroy I have wanted to figure out a big-rig electric fan clutch for years. Do you have an arm that reaches over to hold the clutch body still?

The big rigs I drive have a air clutch and are 100% lock up, and the parts are toooo large for our motors.. I have seen the electric ones but haven't tested them at all....
 
Isn't that a vented oil fill cap, or?

That's the valved oil fill cap from 1986 era 6.2's that had the CDR attached to the oil fill. The Factory 6.5's had a vented oil fill cap as well that let pressure off. Their exact function I am not 100% clear on.
 
Here are a couple pics. Not much to see. If I recall the distance in just alittle bit shorter than the stock fan clutch set up, so you should have more clearance from fan to radiator. Maybe 1/2-3/4" IIRC
I'll get a tape out tomorrow and measure.

View attachment 45331 View attachment 45332

Leroy, when you get around to it, I would like to see a video of it being turned on & off, would like to see if a difference in fan "sound" can be seen or hear the air flow....
 
Didn't Missy Goodwrench adapt a Horton clutch? to one of her 6.5's?

I thought she had some problems with how hard it engaged and sudden loading on the serp belt ??????? I am not sure what she said and if she ever solved it and/or if was a weak rubber drive pulley????
 
Last I was aware of Missy's setup (from threads and PM's) was that she got as far as parts identification and did not actually get to the point of installation.
 
{Summon a Veruca Salt voice}: But I want it *nooowwww*!!!!

What is the game plan for cooling the A/C coils? Just run the fan at 100% when the A/C is on?

Looked into a Horton and the limiting factor is that I want a pusher fan in front (in addition to the Horton) so that I do not load the motor just to run the A/C. Challenge in the Burb is that there is very little space for a pusher fan in front of the aux coolers.

That is the way our 2006 Jeep Liberty CRD is set up. That would be a good combo for the electric clutch. I've always wanted to do something different for fans.
Always wished there was an electric fan that would do the job for these vehicles. Especially since ours are just kid haulers or daily drivers anymore.

Maybe a custom stainless grill would be thinner and allow for a pusher fan.
 
I am super swamped with things right now, but I'll try to get a video of it in operation soon.
Until about late June I won't be able to produce anymore of these.

Customer had a question for me, but maybe you guys have a solid answer? He wants a fan on while a/c is on. His concern is loading the engine with the mechanical fan and wants to put pusher/s electrical fans on. I said he would just be loading the engine via the Alternator with the load then. Witch would be less load?
Also fan for a/c should only be needed at low mph speeds right?
I talked to WW and he suggested a control to turn on a fan based on high side pressure of a/c.
 
Our 2006 Jeep Liberty CRD has an AC cooling fan. As far as I know, it comes on whenever the Ac is on. It could be switched with a relay sourced of the hot wire to the AC. compressor
 
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