• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

A-Team Turbo VS CKO-40(hx-40 knock-off)

turbonator

Member
Messages
758
Reaction score
29
Location
Lac Superieur, Quebec
well, about a month has passed since the big controversy between the ATT and the CKO-40.... now that the dust has settled, i would like to compare the 2 from what I have seen in regards to the two....

A-Team Turbo: for starters, the ATT is a complete kit,custom ordered and modified by dennis/slimshady... i will put aside the fact that the install involves cutting the upper( things like this are the norm when modifying) and focus more on what is needed, and i hope dennis will come and verify and clarify certain things i might miss...
1# down-pipe: included in the kit is a custom built 90* down-pipe adapter, i believe that it comes with an extra v-clamp to complete install
2# oil supply line: i am not sure if the ATT comes with a machine boss, (or is machined by dennis) to accept the gm-x oil supply fitting, but does reuse the stock oil line
3# intake tube: the kit comes with a new and improved silicone? coupler to attach to the upper, after some minor modification
4# oil drain: i believe that the drain needs to be modified as well, i think it is just cut and the kit includes a silicone coupler and clamps
5# flange to flange mounting: the ATT comes as a t-4 flange, but is disassembled for the machining of the t-3 flange/holes, and reassembled and inspected.

now the CKO-40..... the purchaser must be aware that this turbo is not a direct fit-bolt on and requires mods as well to work..and that there is no support available to do so..
1# down-pipe: a person must source out the pieces to build the adapter(90* elbow,2 v-clamp flanges, and one v-clamp, welder) to attach the turbo to a gm down pipe(buddy has already built one and if he chooses may post the pics here)
2# oil supply: the boss on the turbo either needs to have an adapter sourced, or be re-threaded, to accept the gm-x adapter.
3# intake: i am not sure if there is modify/trimming involved, all we can say is that to use the H1C non-gated turbo on our build, there was a fair bit of trimming grinding needed to the cool-side outlet to slip a coupler over it as it was set-up for a holset elbow to go to an intercooler....
4# oil drain: i am not sure if the oil drain needs to be modified in any way to mount the CKO, although with our H1C we had to cut it and use a coupler for it to work... and i do not find any info with RZ's install in that department...
5# flange to flange mounting: the CKO( depending on where/who it is sourced through) is a t-3 flange, but i have seen them with the t-4 as well...

to be totally honest here, we give the advantage to the ATT, as dennis & co. put much time, money into the development of the kit and offer good after sale tech/info... and it is sold as just that, a kit... keep in mind here as well that the ATT is a copy of a mitsu turbo, which is a pretty rare turbo to start with, and as such has much better quality control coming off the line... as for the CKO40, there are at least 4 different companies, offering 4 different turbos, which are copies of the same turbo( Holset HX-40) i have already heard of one of these turbos arriving straight out of the box with out of tolerance shaft play... maybe the buyer will post up here and share his experiences.... this type of problem is a quality control issue, and not a factory error like the change in housing size that the ATT had....

after watching videos of the 2 different turbos, i can say that I do not see much difference in the over-all performance of the 2, although i will say that the CKO-40 is not recommended by me for a motor that is not built to handle 18-30psi boost, and is a waste of time to use below 15psi. the ATT is offered for both modified and stock motors, and boosts according to the amount of fuel available and thats it. in our opinion, we are more likely to stick with the non-gated turbos as we have enjoyed great results with our H1C(very comparable to a ATT i would guess) anyways we are not trying to start an emotional debate here, just stating what we have seen/heard to help keep everyone better informed... thanks, jeff&jim
 
I would be interested in CKO-40 info:
1) What RPM does the boost start to 'come on' ? I see the ATT generates boost at 1700 RPM and 'wakes up' around 2000 RPM although the tach is moving up too fast to really pin it down.
2) Any MPG results?
3) What are the IAT's seen with it?
4) Any kitty equipped emissions tests done? (ATT will pass with a 4" converter.)

IMO anything is better than the GMx and I have had very good results with the ATT on both my DS4 and DB2.

The ATT requires you to supply 2 turbo drain clamps and 2 intake clamps. 2 cuts, one to the intake and one to the turbo drain. Everything else is true kit form including the grin the first time you stomp it. (Both turbo's need the usual support of 4" exhaust and a good tune or turn of the screws...)
 
I would be interested in CKO-40 info:
1) What RPM does the boost start to 'come on' ? I see the ATT generates boost at 1700 RPM and 'wakes up' around 2000 RPM although the tach is moving up too fast to really pin it down.
2) Any MPG results?
3) What are the IAT's seen with it?
4) Any kitty equipped emissions tests done? (ATT will pass with a 4" converter.)

IMO anything is better than the GMx and I have had very good results with the ATT on both my DS4 and DB2.

The ATT requires you to supply 2 turbo drain clamps and 2 intake clamps. 2 cuts, one to the intake and one to the turbo drain. Everything else is true kit form including the grin the first time you stomp it. (Both turbo's need the usual support of 4" exhaust and a good tune or turn of the screws...)
IAT's and EGT'S were kind of hinted too and half offered on the other site, but nothing concrete or certain.... the last time Rob posted over there, he had the waste gate wired shut... good or bad? sounds bad too me, why buy a waste-gated unit, only to tie it shut... seems like a bigger, free-flowing turbo might have been better for him....
 
So, you have run both an ATT and a 40 knock off or you're just reposting what others have said?

If reposting, the "claimed performance" is suspect....as opposed to someone like WW who has actually run an ATT hard and presents his data.

Honestly, if this is ever going to be put to bed, someone needs to bolt up and ATT, run it through a testing loop, then bolt on a HX40 (or whatever they're calling them these days) and run the same test loop.

On the same truck.

By an impartial party.

Anything else is pretty "speculative".

Need quantifiable data and minimizing variables here or it's just gonna be the same ol' blah, blah, blah again....
 
On a technical note, I would love to see turbo maps for the mitsu based ATT, the 40 and it's knock off, and maybe a he 351 ve.

I'd also like to see one for a GM8, Although the closest map I can find for it seems to be the RCH6....
 
U boys just wait till I get my new project done :p , gonna be neat comparing it to these turbos.
 
LLY turbo, still pondering how to run the exhaust. I got the turbo and a set of 6.2 headers. Might just use the drivers side 6.2 header and build new on passenger side. I can just cut new flanges with the water jet at work.
 
I've never seen one, but it's center mount right?

Maybe swap the headers left to right which will point the exhausts up and then into a collector for a center mount?

Is the lly vvt? If yes, how do you intend to activate it?
 
So, you have run both an ATT and a 40 knock off or you're just reposting what others have said?

If reposting, the "claimed performance" is suspect....as opposed to someone like WW who has actually run an ATT hard and presents his data.

Honestly, if this is ever going to be put to bed, someone needs to bolt up and ATT, run it through a testing loop, then bolt on a HX40 (or whatever they're calling them these days) and run the same test loop.

On the same truck.

By an impartial party.

Anything else is pretty "speculative".

Need quantifiable data and minimizing variables here or it's just gonna be the same ol' blah, blah, blah again....

Thats exactly what I have up my sleeve apples to apples, The HX40WII that I sent back at my request was sent to a Turbo shop in Indy to be rebuilt and rebalanced I have the name of the rebuilder and am in the process of contacting him but the Turbo will be in my hands by Wednesday next week (Its in Transit) and I will Install it as soon as I can, I will do a number of test runs with it towing 0-60 ect. Then I will put on a A team and do the exact same tests and will see once and for all which way is the better way to go, I will start a new thread with Pics. I also have a battery and airbox relocation kit in the works that will free up alot of room for the Turbo and plumbing but keep the Batteries under the hood
 
Thats exactly what I have up my sleeve apples to apples, The HX40WII that I sent back at my request was sent to a Turbo shop in Indy to be rebuilt and rebalanced I have the name of the rebuilder and am in the process of contacting him but the Turbo will be in my hands by Wednesday next week (Its in Transit) and I will Install it as soon as I can, I will do a number of test runs with it towing 0-60 ect. Then I will put on a A team and do the exact same tests and will see once and for all which way is the better way to go, I will start a new thread with Pics. I also have a battery and airbox relocation kit in the works that will free up alot of room for the Turbo and plumbing but keep the Batteries under the hood

Sounds good!

I look forward to your post when it's time.

Merry Xmas.
 
I talked to fleece about the stand alone controller they sell, getting it to work on my 6.5 won't be an issue. Center mount probley won't work the turbo is huge. But I can double check. Flipping the headers is a great idea though.

Merry Xmas.
 
Thinking about it now with a slight body lift and a cowl hood might just work. Thanks for the idea GW :)
 
I didn't think the LLY turbo was a VVT? If it is that would explain why my friends 05 DMAX feels so much different then our 01 DMAX
 
LLY was the first year of it and lets just say it gave the LLY lots of heat problems. Yes, I would be interested to see what it does, but, not my first choice. I think GM used bigger turbo's on later years. And GM has a rough time keeping that cool (towing) with 25" fans, overdriven fans etc... And they all have inter coolers and generate 30 PSI of boost on 18:1 or less. Maybe it will work better with lower boost?

There is never a best choice once and for all as automotive is a collection of compromises. Some VW people have to empty the water out of their inter coolers from light foot driving. Others like me are pushing the limit of full load, altitude, high temp, etc. The extra wires and complexity may be a disadvantage for some. Yet a wider boost range may be worth it. So there is a best choice for intended use, cost (of install and MPG), and complexity including reliability.
 
LLY was the first year of it and lets just say it gave the LLY lots of heat problems. Yes, I would be interested to see what it does, but, not my first choice. I think GM used bigger turbo's on later years. And GM has a rough time keeping that cool (towing) with 25" fans, overdriven fans etc... And they all have inter coolers and generate 30 PSI of boost on 18:1 or less. Maybe it will work better with lower boost?

There is never a best choice once and for all as automotive is a collection of compromises. Some VW people have to empty the water out of their inter coolers from light foot driving. Others like me are pushing the limit of full load, altitude, high temp, etc. The extra wires and complexity may be a disadvantage for some. Yet a wider boost range may be worth it. So there is a best choice for intended use, cost (of install and MPG), and complexity including reliability.

The LLY's VVT turbo did not cause or lead to there overheating. GM used the same cooling system on the LLY that they did for the LB7 which is a 6.5 radiator core and an intercooler out in front of it. The LLY sufferred from added emissions controls like the EGR cooler that added heat that needed to be rejected, a choked down turbo mouthpiece that fed air to the turbo, added in a cat converter that caused more heat to be retained in the engine since the exhaust flowed less, and highly changed engine tuning for emissions as well. An LBZ mouthpiece, EGR delete, cat delete and full exhaust, seal the stack, and change the tuning some and the overheaters can be fixed. And not all of them overheated. Also I believe in stock trim at sea level the LLY held about 22 pounds of boost at WOT, but being a computer controlled VVT system it controlled boost off of absolute pressure so boost went up as you went up in altitude. Also I believe the LLY VVT was the larger of the VVT's as the LBZ's was downsized slightly to reduce lag and improve emissions. I doubt the LLY VVT will be a good match to a 6.5 as I just don't see a 6.5 producing the airflow to need what it can put out.
 
The veins on the LBZ and LMM are smaller. The LLY has the most flow out of them.that's why danville uses LLY chargers as cores.Fleece uses LBZ. the over heating problem is not from that specific turbo. The stock radiator is not big enough for the engine. The MP is to small. The stock air box sucks over the LBZ.
 
Back
Top