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A military rebuilt 6.5

It finally feels really good. I'm still not happy with the tune, but the switch to a mechanical Moose will take care of that.

I'm working on a bunch of projects I'm trying to get done before snow flies, but once that is done I'll get back to Tahoe projects. Next up: installing the boost controller, fixing the passenger side header so it fits and making the driver side header.
 
n8in8or said:
It finally feels really good. I'm still not happy with the tune, but the switch to a mechanical Moose will take care of that.

I'm working on a bunch of projects I'm trying to get done before snow flies, but once that is done I'll get back to Tahoe projects. Next up: installing the boost controller, fixing the passenger side header so it fits and making the driver side header.
Click to expand...
Yep, they have a pump that rocks for fuel delivery.
I have some info for using the fly by wire fuel pedal you have now on a DB2/DB4 I'll post the link in a little while, however the cable fuel control is still a much better option.
I've been known to flatten header pipes a little for clearance as long as it is like a transition (spintech) it will still flow like it was round.
 
FellowTraveler said:
Yep, they have a pump that rocks for fuel delivery.
I have some info for using the fly by wire fuel pedal you have now on a DB2/DB4 I'll post the link in a little while, however the cable fuel control is still a much better option.
I've been known to flatten header pipes a little for clearance as long as it is like a transition (spintech) it will still flow like it was round.
Click to expand...
I already grabbed a gasser pedal and cables for my swap. I also grabbed the cruise control unit so I can keep that working too. I'm going to go to the junkyard and grab a second coolant crossover/thermostat housing so I can mockup the cable brackets on the old engine, which will decrease my downtime while doing the conversion.

The unit they're building for me is supposed to put out 120mm^3 of fuel at 3500 rpm, so yeah, it's gonna rock!

Unfortunately I had about an inch of interference with the firewall, so it's going to take a complete reconfigure of the crossover tube section of the header and not just a little tweak. I pretty much know how I'm going to do it, I just need to get the time to do it. It will be better this time having the engine in the truck so I can see all of my interference points while doing the fab work.
 
n8in8or said:
I already grabbed a gasser pedal and cables for my swap. I also grabbed the cruise control unit so I can keep that working too. I'm going to go to the junkyard and grab a second coolant crossover/thermostat housing so I can mockup the cable brackets on the old engine, which will decrease my downtime while doing the conversion.

The unit they're building for me is supposed to put out 120mm^3 of fuel at 3500 rpm, so yeah, it's gonna rock!

Unfortunately I had about an inch of interference with the firewall, so it's going to take a complete reconfigure of the crossover tube section of the header and not just a little tweak. I pretty much know how I'm going to do it, I just need to get the time to do it. It will be better this time having the engine in the truck so I can see all of my interference points while doing the fab work.
Click to expand...
I see they are advertising one for gm that does 130mm^3.
Good idea for cruise control.
Well, sorry to hear you have more than a little tweak for the exhaust since you have been so deeply involved in two rebuilds recently however I know whatever you decide will rock and I can hardly wait for the results too.
 
FellowTraveler said:
I see they are advertising one for gm that does 130mm^3.
Good idea for cruise control.
Well, sorry to hear you have more than a little tweak for the exhaust since you have been so deeply involved in two rebuilds recently however I know whatever you decide will rock and I can hardly wait for the results too.
Click to expand...

Ah, I see they have updated their website since my inquiry this summer. I'm pretty sure the 130mm number they are referencing is max output, which would be at lower rpm. What they are building me is an Omega build, but using a Marine DB2 core as a base. He says it should be around 150mm max and still putting out 120 at 3500rpm. They can also do a custom Super Moose that he rated at a max of 200-210mm, but he didn't tell me how much it would put out at higher rpm. I've really enjoyed talking to Joel at Conestoga, he's very helpful and knowledgeable.

It's not a big deal having to redo the header, that's what happens when you do custom stuff....and the fab work is fun!
 
Well, it's been awhile and I'm sure others as well as I miss what has been going on after this fantastic build. So, any updates to feed our addiction, or?
 
Hi FT, yeah it has been a while..... both the holidays and the cleanup/reorganization of my barn have kept me from doing anything really great lately. I hope to have the barn back in working condition in about a week or so and then I should be back at it.

Here are the next upgrades, but I'm not sure in which order I will do them:
Modify passenger side header so it actually fits
Make driver side header
Make a new upper intake so the intercooler sits lower (it rubs on the hood right now)
Upgrade turbo wheels
Convert to mechanical and install Marine Omega Moose pump

Anyone have a suggested order that I should do these upgrades in? The upper intake mod will be a change from a central 4" tube to an offset 3" tube. The intercooler has a 3" inlet and outlet, so I don't expect this to affect performance, but I'm entertaining the idea of doing this independent of other changes just to check for sure.

One thing I have done is had my oil analyzed for the first time. As you'll see in the report, they recommended my next change at 2500 miles. I was planning on doing my next change at 1000 miles - at first I thought about doing the 2500 mile change, but I have decided to stick with my plan and do the 1000 mile change, which is in 60 miles.

So that's it for now...hopefully there will be new updates soon. Cheers!
 

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n8in8or said:
Hi FT, yeah it has been a while..... both the holidays and the cleanup/reorganization of my barn have kept me from doing anything really great lately. I hope to have the barn back in working condition in about a week or so and then I should be back at it.

Here are the next upgrades, but I'm not sure in which order I will do them:
Modify passenger side header so it actually fits
Make driver side header
Make a new upper intake so the intercooler sits lower (it rubs on the hood right now)
Upgrade turbo wheels
Convert to mechanical and install Marine Omega Moose pump

Anyone have a suggested order that I should do these upgrades in? The upper intake mod will be a change from a central 4" tube to an offset 3" tube. The intercooler has a 3" inlet and outlet, so I don't expect this to affect performance, but I'm entertaining the idea of doing this independent of other changes just to check for sure.

One thing I have done is had my oil analyzed for the first time. As you'll see in the report, they recommended my next change at 2500 miles. I was planning on doing my next change at 1000 miles - at first I thought about doing the 2500 mile change, but I have decided to stick with my plan and do the 1000 mile change, which is in 60 miles.

So that's it for now...hopefully there will be new updates soon. Cheers!
Click to expand...

I must admit the CKO HX40W Super Drag JDM-3-4 18cm2 specs are not what I had read they were when I decided to buy it and you confirmed there is a wheel and compressor difference between the CKO's w/same part number we have, now I find the JMD-3-8 is the correct one that replaces Holset Super 40 however with 18cm2 turbine housing too not really too concerned as price was very good, I'm considering the real Holset Super 40 so I know exactly what the specs are across the board while gong all out to increase air charge density to best I can get w/aftermarket 2nd gen Cummins CAC/IC.

As for your CAC/IC tube change you should expect less pressure drop with what you plan however avoid any sharp turns if you cant then get the cobra-head connectors as opposed to round for turns to reduce frictional flow loss the same goes for the air filter to compressor fittings too cobra-head in turns out flows round hands down as does a cobra-head down-pipe.

I have run my synthetic out to 25k just change out filters for the most part using AMSOIL and their dual bypass filtration, I will be doing the centrifuge too.

I like your project...........
 
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FellowTraveler said:
I must admit the CKO HX40W Super Drag JDM-3-4 18cm2 specs are not what I had read they were when I decided to buy it and you confirmed there is a wheel and compressor difference between the CKO's w/same part number we have, now I find the JMD-3-8 is the correct one that replaces Holset Super 40 however with 18cm2 turbine housing too not really too concerned as price was very good, I'm considering the real Holset Super 40 so I know exactly what the specs are across the board while gong all out to increase air charge density to best I can get w/aftermarket 2nd gen Cummins CAC/IC.

As for your CAC/IC tube change you should expect less pressure drop with what you plan however avoid any sharp turns if you cant then get the cobra-head connectors as opposed to round for turns to reduce frictional flow loss the same goes for the air filter to compressor fittings too cobra-head in turns out flows round hands down as does a cobra-head down-pipe.

I have run my synthetic out to 25k just change out filters for the most part using AMSOIL and their dual bypass filtration, I will be doing the centrifuge too.

I like your project...........
Click to expand...
I plan on using a standard 3" silicone elbow after the IC instead of the 3"-4" elbow I am using right now. This will gain me an extra inch to move the IC over which should allow me drop the IC down enough to get it down and away from the hood. My original thought with the 4" upper intake was that it allowed a more consistent or gradual flow path from the IC outlet to the individual intake runners. I think that might be true if this was a naturally aspirated application, but since this is forced induction I think it becomes a moot point. Now if I could find a 3"-4" cobra-head coupler I might be able to accomplish this goal without redoing my upper intake. If you find one please share it with me because it would save me some fab work potentially.

As far as oil change durations, I absolutely hope to extend them further in the future, I'm just trying to keep flushing the engine while it's still breaking in by doing more frequent oil and filter changes. It will be interesting to see how the oil analysis results turn out during my next couple changes. I think when I do the driver side header I will also do a remote oil filter setup so access to the filter doesn't constrict my header design.
 
snarl95 said:
Going from the 4" to 3" will get you only half an inch.
Click to expand...
I'm going to offset the tube in the opening so the outside opposite the IC is at the same location so that I will gain the full 1" reduction in diameter. Here's a picture of 2 hole saws to illustrate what I'm trying to say. image.jpeg
 
FellowTraveler said:
What size is the pressure side could a cobra-head fit or?
Click to expand...
The IC outlet is 3" and my intake is 4" currently. The one I found will physically fit, but the black rubber won't stand up to the pressure side of the system - it's designed for the intake side (pre-turbo).
 
n8in8or said:
The IC outlet is 3" and my intake is 4" currently. The one I found will physically fit, but the black rubber won't stand up to the pressure side of the system - it's designed for the intake side (pre-turbo).
Click to expand...
Why not? Here is one using a 3" adapter at either end: http://www.intakehoses.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=I&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=90CB40

This on comes in two different turn tightness configurations for 4":
http://www.purosil.com/product.php?category=epdm_elbows&id=3
 
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