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'95 with no power to LP

I just know how my 95 works from diagnosing LP problems in the past. The schematic is from the 1995 factory service manuals that you can order from Helm. IIRC SIR is "Supplemental Inflatable Restraint" - airbags, which I do not have. I have a tech II and it can turn the LP on and off through the DLC. When setting up the tech II you do have to tell it what year the truck is.
 
D2, if you get a minute check out my web site. I do have an OPS hose (Like Buddy said, thanks) and some LP bypass fittings.
Also your fuel gauge reading past full and bouncing is most likely the sending unit in the tank.
Welcome to DTR.
 
Desert, you are absolutely correct. I put 12 volts from the battery to the "F" terminal and the LP came to life.

I then removed that wire, removed the connector to the OPS and used the mentioned paper clip to connect the Gray and Orange wires----LP runs.

Next, since I still had the Fuel Monitor removed, I cleans the area under the intake the best I could. Then I inserted a bolt in the fuel line coming up to the FM and clamped it good. Used the paperclip connector, and got pressure built up, I thought. To confirm the pressure I installed a gauge where the bolt was. It shows 9 PSI. I have to wonder if my gauge is really accurate though if the pumps are rated 5 PSI. It did hold the pressure though. I went back 1/2 hour later and pressure still the same.

QUESTION: Under the intake, to the back, on the driver's side there appears to be a sensor of some sort screwed in. It's in a vertical position, it come straight up. Looks like there might be a connector to go into it. I couldn't see it real good and I have no book. What is that gizzmo?

I have not reinstalled the fuel monitor because of this question. If I can proceed w/o concern over that item next thing to do is connect the fuel lines to the IP and drain, bleed system, and see what happens. How many injectors do I need to crack open to effectively bleed enough to get it to fire?

All advise is welcome, thanks for info. so far. len
 
Sounds like your new OPS is not functioning and the LP works.

I don't think you need to open the the injector one at a time unless you just change the IP. Just have to have good batteries to crank.

I am not sure what gizzmo you are talking about. Under the intake should be the IP.
 
I'm confused on the OPS. How can I determine it is not functioning if it's not receiving pressure from the oil---the engine is not running to develop pressure? What am I missing here.

OK, this gizzmo is a few inches towards the front of the engine from the OPS hole in the block. It stands up 1 1/2". It kinda looks like it should have a couple of wires to plug into it. There are no wires in the harness (that I could see) to plug in. Just seemed odd.
 
You cannot determine if the ops is good without pressure to it. But you should be able to get it run with a hot wire to the lp and then when you have pressure you can tell if ops works.If you set up your hot wire correctly you can cut power to it and have the ops take over if it dies then you know ops is bad
 
actually it might not die the ip can pull fuel thru the lp but you can put your guage on the drain tee and see what pressure it reads with hot wire to ops disconnected.
 
D2, I think the gizzmo you are refering to IS the OPS. The OPS is a black plastic tower with a metal base for a 1 1/16" socket, it has 1/4" threads that screw into the engine valley/block. Has a 3 pin connector.
BTW: I have an extention hose for the OPS on the web site that makes that job alot easier the next time.
 
"OK, this gizzmo is a few inches towards the front of the engine from the OPS hole in the block. It stands up 1 1/2". It kinda looks like it should have a couple of wires to plug into it. There are no wires in the harness (that I could see) to plug in. Just seemed odd."


No---it's a few inches towards the front of the engine from the OP hole..."

I replaced the OPS. I know where it it/goes. It's something else!!
 
Got pictures?
You have a 95, so ops should be more to rear of engine just outside valley at appox 45 degree angle, Right?
What you discribe sounds just like a 96&^ ops location.
 
I did my best to send a couple pictures to Burning oil. If he retrieves them or not is another question. Just be glad I'm not directing a capsule to the moon. If we ever got off the ground we'd probably end up in South America!!

I'm pretty sure you guys got this thing nailed. The PO did tell me the engine had been replaced 40,000 miles ago. Probably telling the truth then, and the replacement was a '96. And the gizzmo is the OPS. What seems odd is the OPS is coming out the back also. Well, maybe the pictures can be posted.

Anyways an update. I still had pressure in the line this afternoon. The gauge stayed "put" all night and half the day. I removed the gauge, installed the fuel manager, connected the 1/4" lines to the drain valve and the IP. I cracked open the injector lines on the driver side and the front one on the pass. Cranked for 15 seconds or so, waited a min. and repeated 3 or 4 times. Tightened up lines. Cranked again. waited. About the 5th time she bellowed black smoke and rumbled to life. I looked for signs of problems, but let it keep purring for 20-25 minutes.

When I shut it off everything seemed OK. About 10 minutes latter I came back by and noticed something wetting the ground in front of the truck. It was diesel. After some crawling around I determined the return line on the drivers side was split right at the injector.

So the story begins to make sense. The PO was frustrated. It was leaking fuel and they couldn't find it and was tired of messing with it. They must have, or the PO before them, replaced the engine, they replaced the fuel filter, the LP and the PMD (maybe not new, i don't know- but replaced). Still leaking, sucking air, engine dies---they give up!

Since I have to replace the return lines and it looks like the pass side is a bear would it make good sense to replace the GP and injectors when I'm there. Or is it not THAT big of a job?

Guys, thanks for all your coaching. The little bits of info. from here and there together makes it all come together. I still got a lot to do, but it is running.
 
I was at NAPA today and asked for some 1/8" hose for fuel. They had some by Gates, part # H-174. I asked the temperature rating. He said it rated for.... and in the list was fuel return line for diesel...

So is the adequate for what I need or do I need to get some from an injection shop?
 
From the DP thread recently, the 1/8" seems to be too small. They have been using 3/16" tubes. I am not sure if that is valid for rubber type or just tygon fuel tubing.
 
If I short the wires at the OPS to get the engine started, does this have an effect on the GP's? I looked for a write up on the GP's but I have found anything specific, is there one I'm missing? Thanks.

The return line hose I got I have been installing. I'm slow and it's been winter outside! The old return lines are leaking real bad. If I tug on them just a little bit they break and usually right at the end of the injector nipple. I notice the hose is saturated with diesel down near the injectors also.

What's the simple/easy way to do the pass. side return lines?
 
Why would you short the wires at the OPS? Are you just trying to get the LP to run?

I have pulled the turbo off and put it back on in less than an hour, so consider that if you want a lot of space. I just used some bent wrenches and a stubby one.
 
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