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95 SUBURBAN to a 01 DURAMAX/ALLISON

When can I drop my dually off for you to put a Duramax in it for me? :D
 
DEERE3594 said:
When can I drop my dually off for you to put a Duramax in it for me? :D
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I don't think there is enough money in the world to pay me to do another swap like this one. This thing has kicked my but more times than I want to even think about. In hinesight I would have done several things differently though to have made it an easier swap, but it's too late now.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
I don't think there is enough money in the world to pay me to do another swap like this one. This thing has kicked my but more times than I want to even think about. In hinesight I would have done several things differently though to have made it an easier swap, but it's too late now.
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Well.. if you ever change you mind.. :smile5:
GREAT job on the swap btw :thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
First I would do a 2" body lift and raise the engine up 1". Second I would move the torsion bar crossmember back 1" like the guys who do CUMMINS swaps do and then slide the assembly back 1". After doing this swap I would do the dash swap with it if I ever did another. The custom TCM and other hassles isn't worth it. If somebody could make an interface box to allow tow/haul mode like the factory did with the BCM then I would go this route like I did. The DURAMAX intercooler does fit after MASSIVE amounts of radiator support work, but I think a modified CUMMINS IC would be a better option like BIGLEY did with his. Any way you slice it this is NOT an easy swap, and you WILL encounter MANY hurdles and challenges. And don't try to always take what seems like the easy way out as in the end it could bite you in the but. I encountered this with the power steering lines, fuel lines, and trans cooler lines. I ended up going with AN lines for the tranny, and the good hard nylon cored with cotton wrapped fuel lines, and mixing and matching the power steering lines.

And a donor vehicle is a MUST in my opinion. You will be pulling your hair out trying to piece evrything together from one of the EBAY deals. Also a newer SUBURBAN would be a MUCH better option to do this swap as the wiring is almost plug and play for most everything in it.
 
Got one more bug figured out this morning. WONDERFUL ALLDATA got me again. I charged the A/C but the compressor wouldn't turn on. I dug up everything I could from ALLDATA about the A/C trigger and it clearly said that it looks for a ground from the A/C control head to trigger the compressor, THIS IS FALSE! It looks for a 12V+ signal to trigger the compressor to come on. So now I have to go back into my PDC and remove the A/C request relay and hook the A/C sense wire up to my A/C request wire from the 95 head since it powers the circuit on.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
Got one more bug figured out this morning. WONDERFUL ALLDATA got me again. I charged the A/C but the compressor wouldn't turn on. I dug up everything I could from ALLDATA about the A/C trigger and it clearly said that it looks for a ground from the A/C control head to trigger the compressor, THIS IS FALSE! It looks for a 12V+ signal to trigger the compressor to come on. So now I have to go back into my PDC and remove the A/C request relay and hook the A/C sense wire up to my A/C request wire from the 95 head since it powers the circuit on.
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Thanks for sharing this with us. As you stated earlier, I would not do this swap either, seems like laot of swearing and hair pulling gets done.

Just how easy would it be to do on a newer truck, like the 04 in my sig?
 
Does your TCM have power? I had a problem with that. It ran like crap like you were describing, it makes the engine and trans roll over hard. The fuse goes in the drivers fuse box. I would check the circuits that go inside the truck. I'll look at my helms tomorrow, i have it highlighted....
 
The Killing Road said:
Does your TCM have power? I had a problem with that. It ran like crap like you were describing, it makes the engine and trans roll over hard. The fuse goes in the drivers fuse box. I would check the circuits that go inside the truck. I'll look at my helms tomorrow, i have it highlighted....
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I did have power to em when I checked em, and the TCM does scan now with EFILIVE. I'm on my honeymoon right now though, so i won't be back till the 21st or 22nd. I'm pretty sure I got 2 bad injectors though as 7 was a little high for the balance rate, and #1 is right on the edge to going over. When I shut those 2 down the engine ran fine except for the miss from the 3 cylinders being shut off. All the fun of doing a big project like this one I guess.
 
I believe the problem is in fact the #1 injector, I'll know for certain tommorrow though. It took about 2 hours to tear the passenger side down and get #1 and #7 injectors out, and my replacements are out on the UPS truck for delivery today. When I got em out I could see right away that they looked like SHIT! They only have about 20 miles and 3 hours of runtime, but the 2 injectors were both caked over already and rusty on the tips. I could also see on #1 where fuel was leaking between the nozzle and the threaded on retaining cap which is probably why it was flooding whenever I hit the go pedal. When rail pressure went up, it was dumping fuel in around the nozzle instead of through the tip. And I SERIOUSLY doubt that these things are BOSCH like PENSACOLA says they are. The part number I found on them is NOTHING like the part number that was on my old ones, these ones are obviously made of a low grade steel that easily rusts, and the needle valves in these is NOT treated like the old ones were. I'm pretty dissapointed in these remans after all that PENSACOLA played them up to be. I probably could take some fine lapping compound and lap the nozzles into the bodies and run these injectors, but hopefully my replacements are better.
 
Aftermarket injectors = bad news. That's good to know for everyone but you! You didn't really need that...
 
WilliamBos said:
Genuine GM stuff can be worth the price!! :)
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I'm about ready to go down to the local BOSCH dealer and get a set from them and fight with PENSACOLA to refund these. The 2 replacements are both off almost the same amount, so I wonder if there test machine is off that much or not. It went from running bad to HORRIBLE now.
 
96 OILBURNER said:
Have you tried swapping them with another "hole" to see if it is the injectors.
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I'm gonna do that next. I still think it's injectors though because #7 went from a high positive to now a high negative balance and I now have over twice as much smokeing.
 
GM injectors took care of all of my engine problems, and even smoothed out the transmission shifts. I had a fairly harsh 3-4 shift before that I thought was just my built tranny, but not no more. Although I need to reset the TAPS in the tranny now as it is shifting super soft now with the new injectors. Now I can finish it up and load in a good tune in it.
 
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