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'95 Engine build

As a follow-up to the above photo, I went back and got a closer look to find they don't actually touch but are just extremely close.

Moving on...
After the Donaldson cobra head adapters proved to be too big in the bell portion, I found these which are fairly sharp on the inner radius. The 90 degree elbows are rubber rather than silicone. As I understand it, silicone isn't recommended for suction side although I know it's done regularly. The clamps I bought were for 4" silicone and the rubber is thicker so those were a real challenge to get in place. I'll plan to buy bigger clamps and will likely reposition them.

The A/C line touches but it isn't distorting the rubber to where I believe it will rub a hole in it. The vacuum line on the turbo doesn't rub either - both were issues with the cobra heads I had tried initially. The downside is that those were VERY tight on the radius so I wouldn't have had any sort of battery connection issue.
20240713_190323.jpg
The side post battery doesn't fit due to the positive post location. @DieselAmateur told me this would be an issue so it's no surprise, but just another setback. I think my options are to relocate the battery and air filter, get a top post battery or see if I can find a connector to relocate the side post around the corner of the battery.

The airbox gave me even less space so I've left it off for now but if it stays in this configuration, I'll have to wiggle that down in there also.
 
I cut the silicone elbows shorter on the ends that connect to the air filter and the end that connects to the turbo to give me just enough room to fit against the side post battery. Granted where the clamps join the two elbows together was touching the positive terminal so I had wrapped some thin rubber around the clamp just to keep it from being conductive. But it can fit!

I also thought you were planning on doing an intercooler? or is that down the road.
 
is that hard plastic where the double clamps are on the boots? heat it up and shape it into an egg. that might give you some clearance for the battery post.
 
The silicone on prefilter side issue is they can collapse. So test for it is all.

Fitting extra parts and larger parts means sometimes parts gotta go elsewhere.
Batteries on a drop down enclosure under the passenger side bed outside the frame is a well proven location.
Snorkle intake means the filter can be against the turbo somlong as the air feeding the filter comes from outside. One idiot you all know mounted my -umm his- airfilter atop the roof open air and 4” painted pvc down the a pillar before coming into the engine compartment through the fender. It made a lot of room between that and the batteries gone. Had I known of water to air in them days…

Oh, and as for turning the turbo around so air comes in the back from the through fender inlet and straight out to the inner cooler- idk nothing about that either. And it surely wasn’t done on the twin turbo set up explaining the two airfilters, one at the bottom of both a pillars. The two to one ic that had three ports was fun to figure out.
 
DieselAmateur said:
I cut the silicone elbows shorter on the ends that connect to the air filter and the end that connects to the turbo to give me just enough room to fit against the side post battery. Granted where the clamps join the two elbows together was touching the positive terminal so I had wrapped some thin rubber around the clamp just to keep it from being conductive. But it can fit!

I also thought you were planning on doing an intercooler? or is that down the road.
Click to expand...
I/C has to be down the road. This truck needs some road time. It was actually supposed to be my DD this summer and that hasn't happened yet. The time to focus on it is limited so the 5 hours I had yesterday got me some major progress, relatively speaking.
dbrannon79 said:
is that hard plastic where the double clamps are on the boots? heat it up and shape it into an egg. that might give you some clearance for the battery post.
Click to expand...
Rubber.
Twisted Steel Performance said:
You think it's tight now Just wait till you attempt a cac....
Click to expand...
I was thinking that yesterday when I was looking down at the slowly diminishing open space.
Will L. said:
The silicone on prefilter side issue is they can collapse. So test for it is all.

Fitting extra parts and larger parts means sometimes parts gotta go elsewhere.
Batteries on a drop down enclosure under the passenger side bed outside the frame is a well proven location.
Snorkle intake means the filter can be against the turbo somlong as the air feeding the filter comes from outside. One idiot you all know mounted my -umm his- airfilter atop the roof open air and 4” painted pvc down the a pillar before coming into the engine compartment through the fender. It made a lot of room between that and the batteries gone. Had I known of water to air in them days…

Oh, and as for turning the turbo around so air comes in the back from the through fender inlet and straight out to the inner cooler- idk nothing about that either. And it surely wasn’t done on the twin turbo set up explaining the two airfilters, one at the bottom of both a pillars. The two to one ic that had three ports was fun to figure out.
Click to expand...
I'm coming to grips with the need to possibly drill holes in the inner fender to mount a different battery mount to move it up toward the overflow bottle. Then I will turn the filter toward the front and hope there is room for it once I remove the plastic duct from the factory behind the core support. It was pretty tight when I measured that area yesterday. That 46441 filter is huge. I think there is another version which is 46440 that's a smaller in roundth. That might help if it's angled downward.
 
I will take a better look today but I'm leaning toward something like this:
www.summitracing.com

OER 3893882 OER Authorized Battery Trays | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - OER Authorized Battery Trays with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Battery Boxes and Trays at Summit Racing.
www.summitracing.com www.summitracing.com

As a last resort, maybe this:
www.summitracing.com

Summit Racing SUM-430023 Summit Racing™ Adjustable Battery Mounts | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Summit Racing™ Adjustable Battery Mounts with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Battery Boxes and Trays at Summit Racing.
www.summitracing.com www.summitracing.com
 
so where the two boots are joined, it's another rubber coupling underneath? maybe replace the coupling with something rigid like PVC coupling. heat and make it egg shape. also the rubber 90 that connects to the air filter you can swap out with a PVC 90 ether water PVC or conduit PVC. heat and reshape to get you a tighter 90 and give some clearance. paint the PVC with some rubberized black paint and only you will know it's plumbing parts LOL
 
dbrannon79 said:
so where the two boots are joined, it's another rubber coupling underneath? maybe replace the coupling with something rigid like PVC coupling. heat and make it egg shape. also the rubber 90 that connects to the air filter you can swap out with a PVC 90 ether water PVC or conduit PVC. heat and reshape to get you a tighter 90 and give some clearance. paint the PVC with some rubberized black paint and only you will know it's plumbing parts LOL
Click to expand...
Stainless steel joiner for the two.
 
I would not recommend using Sch. 40 pvc for intake plumbing. At least when I tried to use it it got too hot and deformed and uncoupled from everything. Too much underhood air. Only time I ever had to pull over from the ECT being too high and it was because the turbo was pulling in unfiltered underhood air from the pvc coming apart.

You can relocate the battery tray to by the surge tank and fab up a custom cold air intake that sits where the battery is now. I think @n8in8or did something like that on one of his many builds, maybe it was the '94 dually. I've thought about doing something similar but making a prototype out of just plexiglass and sheet metal screws since I don't have the equipment or fab skills to create what Nate did.
 
I think the battery relocation is the way I'll end up going. It just seems more feasible at this point although I'm unsure if the hood will close once the battery is up there. It's really close. I moved one of the elbows to direct the smaller version of the K47 type air filter and it seems to fit decent after removing the factory plastic ductwork. Does anyone know a part number for a paper cone type filter similar to what is in the S&B airbox? I'd like to get some specs. on it.
20240714_171738.jpg
 
There appears to be plenty of flat real estate on the inside of the fender to mount a battery tray. I suppose I'll put some "fat-lady" rubber between the tray and the inner fender to keep it from rubbing and rusting.20240714_171800.jpg
 
DieselAmateur said:
I would not recommend using Sch. 40 pvc for intake plumbing. At least when I tried to use it it got too hot and deformed and uncoupled from everything. Too much underhood air. Only time I ever had to pull over from the ECT being too high and it was because the turbo was pulling in unfiltered underhood air from the pvc coming apart.

You can relocate the battery tray to by the surge tank and fab up a custom cold air intake that sits where the battery is now. I think @n8in8or did something like that on one of his many builds, maybe it was the '94 dually. I've thought about doing something similar but making a prototype out of just plexiglass and sheet metal screws since I don't have the equipment or fab skills to create what Nate did.
Click to expand...
This is my thread for the cold air intake I made for the Hoe. It worked well, but took up a lot of room and sucked to disassemble when something needed to be serviced.

Thread 'My HX40 Cold Air Intake'
https://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/my-hx40-cold-air-intake.44283/
 
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