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92 buildup and questions

3500GMC said:
I like how they are still using the OEM damper in the pic.... What?

That is the ideal setup however if it were CAST IRON...(maybe it is?) But way better than nothing. Or angle iron.

The rear cap should be a part of the assembly too IMO.

That is the general idea of a P400.

Add a steel crank and never look back.
Click to expand...

it is more likely that AMG used his idea as that was made in 2004 i believe....i dont think it is cast iron, but it does not matter, as it is coated to mimic the properties of cast, in fact all the inside of it is coated.... it is done by swain tech....
 
Hey Turbonator(s)

I was wondering if this is a depth perception thing, or did they get the material closer to the crank counterweights, or are the forged crank counterweights shorter to allow them to get material a little further up to the outside bolts? Or are yours about the same?
P400girdleThick.jpg
 
buddy said:
Hey Turbonator(s)

I was wondering if this is a depth perception thing, or did they get the material closer to the crank counterweights, or are the forged crank counterweights shorter to allow them to get material a little further up to the outside bolts? Or are yours about the same?
View attachment 24853
Click to expand...

That girdle is a lot thicker than ours, it looks to me that their girdle is radius machined to clear the counter weights.

After seeing all of these different set-ups, still figure that basic rail girdles, and, or short filling the block are the most cost effective means to strengthen bottom end right now.
These have been used for years now,countless miles, from drag racing to daily drivers.

IMO as long as the girdle is not more than .375" thick, should not require align honing, and block distortion will be at a minimum

When building ours originally, we discussed going 16 or 18 bolt girdle, but was not feasible. This being due to time constraints. Ours was all hand fabricated and measured to be within .002" tolerances. Next one will have studs instead of bolts, about $245.00 is the best price we found so far for all 20 ARP studs, nuts and washers.

When next the oil pan is removed from this motor we will inspect the webs and the cylinder walls for cracks and unusual wear.... and yes to previous poster, we will post up the results.

This truck weighs in at 17,600lbs, and we have pulled 14,000lbs with it in the Laurentian mountains. Not the fastest on the road, but seems to still be holding together.


jim. (6th post in last 2 months, due to my inability to tolerate some posters belligerent attitudes....CRAP, CRAP, CRAP). The posts that I have been reading here since, have been very informative and enjoyable..... thanks guys keep the good info flowing.
 
Yes I am enjoying this great conversation as well!!

Anyways some of those girdles would be SO NICE haha, but as I mentioned, I am on a tight budget. Getting all the exhaust components for my VGT is getting more and more expensive lol.

I would like to do a girdle, but I am nervous about getting mine to fit right (aka drilling the holes exactly right). I also don't want to do a girdle w/o upgrading the bolts or doing studs. Maybe I could get some angle iron, do the grinding and shaping myself, and have a shop drill the holes so I know they are exactly right. Turbonator, is that price for you up in Canada?? That's a hefty amount for sure. Could you tell me what size you would need? Maybe I will talk to them as well.

you guys bring up a good point about the shear force on the bolts. This also seems to support doing studs, assuming ARP studs can take alot more shear force than a factory bolt. It also supports the girdle idea as well.

So after all this great discussion, I still don't know what I am going to do lol, but thats perfectly fine. I think I have pretty much have my heart set on doing studs, but whether to do block filler or girdle is still up in the air at this point. I am looking forward to hear about your teardown turbonator, see how that beast has fared internally.

Thanks again guys keep it going!!
 
Hey guys quick question. So I finally got the truck running after installing the HE351VE on Friday. Definitely still need to work some bugs out. I definitely noticed an improvement in the low end snap, but it still isn't performing where I want it, although my custom upper intake I made really sucks and is leaking boost, so I need to redo it. The EGTs aren't what I want. In fact they are a bit higher than my GM-3. I must not be controlling the VGT quite right. Yesterday I took it on my "performance test" which is starting at 55mph on a hill near my house and seeing how fast I could go at the top. With the GM-3 my record was 64 mph at about 850 degrees EGT. When I did the test yesterday it fell on its face. Hardly 60 mph at 900 degrees. I couldn't get it to reach 10 psi. So I have some things to work out.

Anyways, here is the big question. Yesterday my water pump went out, so the truck sits again :( so I am going to do my cooling upgrades now. 2000 year pump and fan clutch. Here are my questions....

It looks like my 6 blade fan will not fit the new clutch, so I need to get a fan ASAP. I found a place where I can get a fan for 2002 duramax for $50. Buddy, you mentioned, it can be "coerced" onto the 2000 year clutch. How hard is it to do?? I don't mind having to do some "coercing".

I am looking at an online catalog for the clutches. One says "reverse rotation severe duty" Will it work??

The 2000 year pump will bolt right on my truck correct?? I kinda need to figure this out quickly so I can get the stuff ordered today, as I need the truck on Saturday. Thanks guys!!! I will also be ordering a 190 degree AC Delco T-stat.
 
vdb11 said:
Hey guys quick question. So I finally got the truck running after installing the HE351VE on Friday. Definitely still need to work some bugs out. I definitely noticed an improvement in the low end snap, but it still isn't performing where I want it, although my custom upper intake I made really sucks and is leaking boost, so I need to redo it. The EGTs aren't what I want. In fact they are a bit higher than my GM-3. I must not be controlling the VGT quite right. Yesterday I took it on my "performance test" which is starting at 55mph on a hill near my house and seeing how fast I could go at the top. With the GM-3 my record was 64 mph at about 850 degrees EGT. When I did the test yesterday it fell on its face. Hardly 60 mph at 900 degrees. I couldn't get it to reach 10 psi. So I have some things to work out.

Anyways, here is the big question. Yesterday my water pump went out, so the truck sits again :( so I am going to do my cooling upgrades now. 2000 year pump and fan clutch. Here are my questions....

It looks like my 6 blade fan will not fit the new clutch, so I need to get a fan ASAP. I found a place where I can get a fan for 2002 duramax for $50. Buddy, you mentioned, it can be "coerced" onto the 2000 year clutch. How hard is it to do?? I don't mind having to do some "coercing".

I am looking at an online catalog for the clutches. One says "reverse rotation severe duty" Will it work??

The 2000 year pump will bolt right on my truck correct?? I kinda need to figure this out quickly so I can get the stuff ordered today, as I need the truck on Saturday. Thanks guys!!! I will also be ordering a 190 degree AC Delco T-stat.
Click to expand...

i think that the backing plates are different for the 2 pumps so you will need to get the newer style backing plate to bolt it up... did you turn up your pump a little bit more? did you have smoke when you accelerated? how are you controlling your vgt? post up some pics of your setup....
 
turbonator said:
i think that the backing plates are different for the 2 pumps so you will need to get the newer style backing plate to bolt it up... did you turn up your pump a little bit more? did you have smoke when you accelerated? how are you controlling your vgt? post up some pics of your setup....
Click to expand...

for sure if you are losing boost that will kill the performance big-time.....
 
The Dmax fan will fit onto the 2000 year clutch, confirmed by other members, they just wont fit onto our old 6 blade fan clutches.

I would get that Dmax fan for $50.
 
Yeah when I made my custom upper intake I used plate steel that was too thin so when I welded the elbow onto it the whole thing kinda warped and now it doesn't sit perfectly flat on the lower intake. My fault. Anyways turbonator I will try to get some pics up this week. I basically welded an extension arm on the factory gear arm and then made a rod with a piece of all-thread and a washer, and basically made a TM. Its pretty simple but my spring may not be strong enough. I do have the pump turned up about 3/16 of a turn. Virtually no smoke at acceleration so it could used turned up more. I don't wanna go too high without some more bottom end work. It will just be on the back burner until I get the water pump done.

So I need a different backing plate for the 2000 water pump?? So it goes on top of the timing cover?I thought they were just bolt on, I will look it up. Thanks turbonator! Ok so I will be getting the Dmax fan and 2000 clutch.

Thanks guys!
 
vdb11 said:
Yeah when I made my custom upper intake I used plate steel that was too thin so when I welded the elbow onto it the whole thing kinda warped and now it doesn't sit perfectly flat on the lower intake. My fault. Anyways turbonator I will try to get some pics up this week. I basically welded an extension arm on the factory gear arm and then made a rod with a piece of all-thread and a washer, and basically made a TM. Its pretty simple but my spring may not be strong enough. I do have the pump turned up about 3/16 of a turn. Virtually no smoke at acceleration so it could used turned up more. I don't wanna go too high without some more bottom end work. It will just be on the back burner until I get the water pump done.

So I need a different backing plate for the 2000 water pump?? So it goes on top of the timing cover?I thought they were just bolt on, I will look it up. Thanks turbonator! Ok so I will be getting the Dmax fan and 2000 clutch.

Thanks guys!
Click to expand...

its really no problem at all, you have been accepting of everybodies ideas and open to all sorts of stuff, so it is a pleasure...:thumbsup:
 
I think the spring does have a lot to do with it for sure. I bought the spring at Lowes and I think its too weak. I will get a pic up this week.

Thanks turbonator I really do appreciate how much you guys help me. I never see any reason to fight or not try new things and be open to all ideas.

So I looked on both the advance website and rock auto and I cannot find anything like you mentioned about a backing plate for the water pump. Do you know where I would get/look up info for one?? Thanks again. The sooner I can get the parts ordered, the more likely they will be here next weekend. Thanks!!
 
A few months ago I replaced my stock 94 water pump with a 2000 HO balanced flow pump. I didn't have to change the backing plate. It all bolted up without a hitch.

Wasn't the change in backing plate when the change in pump rotation and change from V-belt to serpentine belt came about?
Not sure about this, just something nagging at me way back in my feeble memory.

Don
 
I thought they were interchangeable but hey I could definitely be wrong, wouldn't be the first time! :)

If I do need one you are probably right ak, it seems to be the same situation with the actual fans too, I can't find them anywhere except at a junk yard, unless I buy a Dmax fan..

Thanks again guys let me know what you think about this backing plate if anyone else has any thoughts on that.
 
handcannon said:
A few months ago I replaced my stock 94 water pump with a 2000 HO balanced flow pump. I didn't have to change the backing plate. It all bolted up without a hitch.

Wasn't the change in backing plate when the change in pump rotation and change from V-belt to serpentine belt came about?
Not sure about this, just something nagging at me way back in my feeble memory.

Don
Click to expand...

i think you are right, i remembered it kinda like you... was just nagging in the back of my head...LOL
 
Thanks again guys.

So I just ordered a fan clutch, 2000 year water pump, a 190 degree ACDelco t-stat, and a fan for a 2001 duramax. I also bought a balancer and pulley for my build in the summer. Ugh this money spending thing is getting out of hand ha.

Anyways hopefully it all arrives before the weekend.

Turbonator, do you have the specs for the main studs?? You had said before that I should have this info before I talk to them. I would like to contact ARP and see what it is gonna cost soon so I can go from there. I will try to get some pics up of my VGT set up on here soon as well.

Thanks!

Vance
 
Hey guys so after a LONG weekend, the truck is running again. The water pump installation went pretty smoothly, except the coolant mess all over the shop floor ha. The fan for the 2001 duramax is a nine blade plastic fan and bolted up to the 2000 6.5 fan clutch perfectly. I just had to take a grinder and grind a 1/4 inch around the fan shroud so it all fit in there.

I took out that massive AC condenser thing in front of the radiator too and put the 190 degree ACDelco t-stat in when I finished the project. Of course, I have a problem, like always.

The truck seems to be running too cool now. I didn't get to drive it much but long enough to notice the issue. It warms up quick like the t-stat is working and then it stalls at like 150-160 and it stays there. With my cheap Stant 195 in there it warmed up to about 180 and stayed there. Any thoughts??

Like I said I got a reman 2000 pump, a new 2000 fan clutch, it is a severe duty thread on type, the only one Advance has, the Dmax fan, and the ACDelco 190 t-stat. Any ideas?? I mean I know I should be flowing coolant better but the t-stat should be keeping that coolant in the motor until it reaches 190 right??

Thanks guys.

I tightened down the spring a bit on the VGT set-up, and the thing still seems to dog when I mash the throttle, My spring may not be strong enough, it almost seems to accelerate better with lighter pedal force. EGTs seem to be lower cruising for sure, but still scare me a bit when I hit the throttle hard, they fly up fast to pretty much the same levels as before. I noticed a growling/resonating sound as well, especially during low rpms and deceleration, maybe exhaust touching somewhere. Ha always a work in progress....

Anyways thanks again guys for all your help!
 
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