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87 land yacht, long term project

WarWagon said:
Get a 3" lift kit for the garage...
Click to expand...

Hahaha if I was planning to stay here that would be a very good option. Want to be in a place with more to do outside of work within the next 2 years. About 4 hours away from everything out here haha.


Have a friend looking for a set of 52" rear leaf springs from a chevy/gmc 1/2 ton, figure pull a few leaves from those packs should get me down to the right height. Then trim the fenders to fit and roll the truck back in the garage. Converting it to single wheel, running the humvee beadlock wheels. Not decided on tires yet
 
To get the truck in the garage as it sits the top of the headache rack needs to be cut off, and tires flat. This is how much clearance it has rolling on 10psi tires. I have an 84" doorway
 
Will L. said:
As in the 2 piece steel wheels?
Click to expand...
Yes, running a flat insert (not the complete run flat, need to be able to air down the tires). Theres a company that makes the flat inserts that will work great for it.


Reason I want it able to drive into the garage is that will keep it safe and out of sight when not in use (keeps the city off my back as well). When I go on a trip I can drive it out, load it on a trailer and go have fun. Get home, drive it off the trailer and back into the garage. For ground clearance the bottom roughly 4" is gone and the drivetrain is tucked up above the bottom of the frame rails, providing fewer clearance issues for me to get caught on rocks or other trail obstacles.
 
That's my rim, w/ 37 x 12.5 x16.5 mt's. I have ctis. I ran without the runflats and aired down to 10 psi. Checked wall deflection and the rolled sidewall traction pattern. Then tried all 4 different styles of the runflats for them. I got the same sidewall deflection and better center of tire traction using the 2 piece all rubber runflat / bead lock combo units made for radial tires. found a guy in Ca. that sells that style for $10 each. No that's not a typo, (Sells the tires for $100 ea.) but haven't checked in last 1 1/2 years to know his stock.

I really wish I could find a set of the goodyear wranglers gsa that size- out of production.:frown2: Those things were amazing. They sucked on lightweight rigs but heavy trucks are the perfect match.
 
Will are you talking about the old style goodyear MT's or the 36" bias ply tires? Found a company in Georgia that claims to have them for 150 each.

Any real difference between the 8, 12, and 24 bolt wheels for offroad only applications?
 
Will did you ever run with a "cut" runflat insert, where basically just the beadlock portion of the insert is left?


I'll still fall into the medium/heavy rig category, 1 ton drivetrain with no interior/tube doors and a stripped down flatbed.
 
yeah, it works, but some headache. First understand I change my own tire with these rims. I have done about 100 of these tires to date, and was a semi tire guy for 1 1/2 years, so I am fairly good at it.

The cut one was easier to go in and out of the tire for sure but more difficult to keep in position while assembling the rim.
When in use it held fine as a beadlock, but with the mt's, and bf Goodrich at's (35" hgh iirc) the center of the tread was cupping when down to 10 psi or more. It pinched the "knobbies" together and created a near solid line of rubber down the middle allowing slipping. My buddy there with a f250 tried them and did quite a burn out about 2" wide until the tire expanded from the centrifugal force and caught. My normal is 28 psi. In the sand it was about the same at 20 psi as it was 10 psi because of the cupping.

When I ran with the runflat as a whole unit, the center rubber supporting the tire in the middle stopped the cupping effect and worked better in the sand and rocks. Not at all what I expected, but it was the same results with Josh's Ford. My weight at the time was 7,200. No clue about his truck's weight.

I talked to a couple guys who are cutting out theirs, but they just didn't know the 2 strap trick for install. After I showed them that they said they would have ran them stock if they knew that in the first place.

I did decide after playing with the cut ones and the balance being harder to deal with than the unit as a whole, that I would just cut some from 1" aluminum or steel on a plasma table if I ever go with that set up. I know the antifreeze in the tire trick for balance, but cant do it with the ctis, if messes with the valves and those suckers are pricey. If you run regular valve stems the definitely ad the liquid.
 
Never knew that about running the run flat inserts with those tires and the center tread issue. I'll be around 5k pounds, will probably have the same situation (still heavy).

Swapped tires/wheels with a coworker (along with some cash my way and a np203 transfercase) for a set of 8 bolt humvee wheels with nearly bald 36" tires. The wheels have the metal run flat insert. Wheels are mounted, should have pics up later tonight
 
I have been thinking about the clearance issues and your garage. I wonder if you just took out the 6" lift blocks in the back and dropped it down just to fit it in and when done, reinstall the lift back in. I bet that would take care of the fitment issues. The back would drop down enough so the cab and everything else would fit in. THEN, you could get back to work on this awesome project. :lmao: :thumbsup:
 
Agreed, the 6" of lift will have to be reduced. Rear blocks are already gone though, did a shackle flip. Planning to remove many of the leaves from the rear packs when my new bolts arrive, better flex and lower it down to about 2-3" of lift. Then to find a set of leaves for the front at thatheight.
 
5ehe9yha.jpg


Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk
 
Sitting on a set of 52" springs from the rear of a k5 blazer with the overload leaf removed

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk
 
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