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6.5l injection timing

Word: ARP's stuff is krap, likely what's in there now, and leaks.

Blue threadlocker works. I have had it in since 2011, 60K+ miles, heads off several times for not head gasket problems, pounded a worm clamp into a head... Others suggested it before me, but, 2 engines later under the worst abuse and hot rodding... Until something better comes along blue or red works, period.
 
They used permatex thread sealer in it. My next issue is am i going to get the passenger side head off cause one stud is close to firewall? Ima have to install studs with heads on only hand tight maybe a snug to insure they are seated now with the blue lock tite do i cover all the threads or just a small line?
 
The hang up is, that works in most engines. There is something about these engines that it fails, consistently. Idk why.

Whatever you choose to do threads with, they need to be fully coated liberally.
 
no I mean to close to the firewall to pull just the one. If you can get it out I would try resealing just that one, first, before I pulled the head. Hence the guncleaning brush so you can reach down thru the head to clean the threads
 
no I mean to close to the firewall to pull just the one. If you can get it out I would try resealing just that one, first, before I pulled the head. Hence the guncleaning brush so you can reach down thru the head to clean the threads
No thats not leaking the only one i see leaking is on driver side outside by injectors the 2nd one from the front ima just pull passenger side cover and pressurize tge system to make sure nomore are leaking
 
Do oil samples to check for coolant. This will let you know if another one starts leaking.
 
You get a kit that your take a sample of the engine oil, put it in a bottle, and send it to a lab. The lab will test the oil, tell you what wear metals are in it, if coolant is present, and how much, if any, diesel fuel.

Some kits have a vampire with a hose the sucks oil out the dipstick. Most pull a sample when changing the oil from the drain plug. In your case checking for coolant can't wait till an oil change. Coolant in oil eats bearings too fast to wait.

Here is a Blackstone video 'Sampling with a pump':

 
You get a kit that your take a sample of the engine oil, put it in a bottle, and send it to a lab. The lab will test the oil, tell you what wear metals are in it, if coolant is present, and how much, if any, diesel fuel.

Some kits have a vampire with a hose the sucks oil out the dipstick. Most pull a sample when changing the oil from the drain plug. In your case checking for coolant can't wait till an oil change. Coolant in oil eats bearings too fast to wait.

Here is a Blackstone video 'Sampling with a pump':

I gotcha ima wait till next weekend to go in to it and change the oil with a little luck none under valve cover are leaking
 
Ok im going into it today now i know its 30 60 90 on torque but i seen some where 100 ft lb with arp assembly lube and 120 with out? When i just checked the torque on the studs i had 120 does that sound right?
 
Blue thread locker in block side only. The goal is to seal the stud in the block. Tighten the studs best you can after putting thread locker in. I went overkill and double nutted to get extreme torque on them to tighten the studs, but, all you need is tight so the threadlocker cures. Then use the ARP lube on the nuts - 3 steps to 100 Ft Lbs. If you only have 30 weight oil: 3 steps to 130 Ft Lbs.

You see the new thread where better products to seal studs are coming to our attention.
 
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