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6.5 starter issues

I believe the powermaster 9052 fits auto and manual- 6.2/6.5. Buy once, cry once. It will crank fast like a gas engine and start much easier in any weather. Worth the extra $.

You can call powermaster to verify the different trans,their customer support is top notch.
When needing an alternator their engineers will even spec one out for you based on your electrical load which helps extend alternator and battery life if running extras.

I would also invest $20 into new starter bolts. The old 6.2 had a direct drive starter which required the shimming (hence “no shims” on newer starters) and sometimes wont let any modern starter seat right, allowing 1/16” of free play.

A common error with new flexplate installs is putting them on backwards and that creates havoc- not really an issue on manual trans flywheel, unless you have mad skills! Haha.
My son asked me yesterday why I ever liked working on rigs- it’s like banging your head against a wall. I said- the head vs wall gets blood in my eyes from the forehead, this way my knuckles, wrists, elbows, etc can bleed too!
 
@Will L.

Holy Cr@p, that wall vid made me cringe!!!

You must drive that thing like you stole it!
I've had past hated vehicles that I've seriously contemplated setting on fire, but still wouldn't of done that to 'em.

Forgive my ignorance, but doesn't the hmmwv have front frame horns (hvy duty of course)? What do you have that tubular bumper fastened with, 1" grade 8 bolts? If that bumper was puchased, you should point the mfg towards that vid - that's one hell of a customer testimonial.

I'm going to take it was one of those "hey, hold my beer" kind of days wasn't it? Happens to the best of us from time to time - LOL!
 
@ the OP,

Not sure if you resolved the binding crank issue yet? Think you said the #3 thrust bearing was too tight?

Just to cover all the bases - what others have coined as "select fit" bearings is a rather significant point in regards to the 6.2/6.5 engine! These blocks are machined green (IE, still glowing hot after being cast)!

The main bearing saddled's center to center, center to deck, and concentric dimensions are all over the place after the blocks cool down. So the craptacular engineering solution gm came up with is using different under/over-sized bearing shells.

Not only between journals, but also between upper and lower shells on the same bearing! GEP applied color coded paint dots on the block's oil pan walls to help identify the sh!tshow of mix & match parts. Otherwise, you have to meticulously write down each bearing's location shell numbers (top & bottom), per main and rod journals to ensure getting the right replacements!!!!!
 
@94DieselSub if you have any info on the exact meaning of the paint markings it would be most welcome in the reference section.

@Rogerhsr any updates after talking to Powermaster?
 
Good you got the binding issue out of the way. Get something in there to support that torque load before starting again though. I’ve seen one too many pics and in person of the broken off ear with the question “How do I fix this?”

@94DieselSub it is straight plate through to the frame. Hmmwvs smack down gates and walls often. No damage there. The common term for those is a brush, cattle, or push guard. Building them strong enough for that is a breach guard. I built that one as a mockup out of sectional pipe to decide how I want the forever one. Still haven’t decided so sticking with that one for now.

They’ve been built for regular pickups, suburbans, etc- but the factory bumper mounts don’t cut it. Notice I smacked it easy a few times. In real situations ya usually come in at 15-20 mph. Knowing how hard to hit before messing up the rig is important. Dad taught me how to pop small trees with a jeep when needed as a kid. A little too fast is a lot of damage- haha
 
@Rogerhsr,
Glad you got the starter issue fixed, was it somehow also the source of your crank being hard to rotate too? Maybe ring gear on the flex/flywheel sightly out of round?

@WarWagon,
I wish I could say I can metally keep all of the details straight - but. So in talking with Peninsular, they explained GEP's bearing color dots scheme to me years ago, but those brain cells are long gone. I went the hard route an wrote down each shells #'s as I removed them from the Optimizer. Sorry I couldn't further assist the info pool.

@Will L,
Man nice fab skills on that bumper!
You might want to cad it up and sell 'em to the hmmvw crowd. As that vid was rather impressive! I don't own a vehicle that would've servived that with out damage.
 
Will L. said:
Notice I smacked it easy a few times. In real situations ya usually come in at 15-20 mph. Knowing how hard to hit before messing up the rig is important. Dad taught me how to pop small trees with a jeep when needed as a kid. A little too fast is a lot of damage- haha
Click to expand...
Back in the "good ol' days" I would have said, "Driver. Advance directly ahead" from the Commander's Seat in my M60A3, followed by a barely noticeable thump and jiggle as we rolled through the wall and over the rubble.
 
@Will L. My ONLY critique of that video is that whomever shot it should have held the phone in Landscape (horizontal) not Portrait (vertical) so that the entire vehicle in approach and then contact could be in one frame without moving the phone back and forth as you backed up, then contacted/drove over the wall.

That rebar up from the footing and through the blocks was the only thing that kept you from dropping the wall on 'first contact'. Very creative solution to 'Where the hell did I leave my sledgehammer?'
 
I think over the years I have greatly under estimated the structural strength of a real hmmwv! This was based on the underwhelming performance of the consumer H1's in that department!

Bam Margera from the "Jackass" MTV crew used to beat on all of his vehicles on his show, including a H1. On a small jump stunt ( +/- 6Ft of air), that H1's suspension grossly bottomed-out and broke, the windshield completely shattered, and the frame/body bent like a banana between the cab & front-clip. So seeing a real hmmwv not even flinch being used as a wrecking ball was enlightening!
 
For the color chart see the attached PDF, page 2-5 ---- well the file is toooooo large and won't load, this info is in the "6.5 diesel student hand book" it might be in the sticky's somewhere...

I attempted to copy and past the page here but it didn't work so well...1578525273474.png



1578525273474.png
 
@TSP,

Thanks for sharing the data sheets!
Although, I did notice the over/under sized options were very small deviation from the std spec. For new builds perhaps GEP tries to adhere to only those? But for mil reman's, I could if sworn I seen p/n's for +/- 1 & 2 thousands and possibly even larger.

Also I believe there was more than just four color codes. The select fit sets Peninsular threw together for me had all kinds of different sizes (all GM p/n's). And this was for a 2005 Ted's-cores pullout Optimizer.
 
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