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6.5 No start, Chevy Dealer and Stanadyne Dealer Cant Figure It Out

WTS light is the GP light. How long was the glow?

How did you test the LP if you cannot even start? It needs steady flow when engine is running.

Have you put 12V direct source to LP and see if you can start?
 
Have you unpluged the shut off solenoid with the key on to hear the solenoid click on or off as you make or open connection?
 
Yeah I got the model off the old pump. Havent gotten to check under the manifold on the new one yet.

Model # DB2831-5288
Serial # 27090 12558156

Shouldnt the model number start with DS4?
For starters,the pump is the wrong model for your year (5068 is the correct one)unless the Eprom has been swapped from a 95,Altough it should still run.
There is no such thing as a DB2 5288,all electronic pumps start with DS4

I would inspect the entire engine harnass back to the firewall for chafed,pinched and broke wires.+ all connectors and pins meticulously.
The optical harness may be a culprit,as might be the ECM.
Have a look at the FSD 2 wire connection behind the boot on the back of the IP for tight.
Have a good look at the grounds at the back of pass side head stud for broke inside the insulation,(ECM/PCM grounds there)

Its got to be electrical seeying you got fuel at the IP. Either that!, or the IP is faulty

What tranny code is there?,write it down and delete it.
 
checklist says the is fuel flow at the IP inlet. So if you have fuel pressure there, then try unplugging the return hose on the IP.

You should not have any air come out of the fuel filter after cranking unless the LP is not supplying enough pressure while cranking.

The IP rebuilders make their own plates on the IPs so they just screwed up the number on it. Pull the PCM out from behind the glove box and open up the access hatch on the back of it to see what the 4 letters are on the PROM chip inside. Then I can look up what IP is supposed to be in there, or if you need to change the PROM chip.

If you have an SES light and get the GP light, (most 94s had a GP light, 95s had WTS light) then the PCM has power. And if they could connect a scanner then it is powered fine.

I would do the steps I posted on the first page, and if nothing works then perhaps verify through the oil fill tube hole that the IP dowel thing was put into the correct hole in the timing gear. It goes in the slightly oblong one.

I also assume when you replaced the CPS that it had a hard plastic body and mount. If it was the tpye with a metal mounting tab and it came off you can physically mount the tab 90-270 degrees off and CPS wont work right.

If you still have that OS filter on the engine harness to the IP's OS, then remove it.

All that info is in the file I posted as well.
 
The IP timing pin fits only in the slotted gear hole.

I missed the part that he replaced the CPS,i thought he said CTS.
It could wel be the problem if it had a loose bracket and was rotated 180
 
Thank you guys for the info. I havent had time in the last few days to do much work on the truck. I am hopefully going to get some time to work on it before the weekend but if not then definatly saturday I can report back. That write up is pretty in depth buddy, thanks for sharing the knowledge.
 
Kinked fuel line? Behind the Fuel Filter Manager one caused me all kinds of grief.
 
Did you ever figure out what was wrong with this no start issue?
Because mine is doing the same thing. Im thinking its a leaking o ring in the FFM. My truck was doing the same thing, so I replaced the FSU and the fuel line from the FSU put a shut off valve in before my pre filter and then a raptor 100 LP and bled the line to the FFM and it fired rite up. Took the truck camping and parked it on a hill facing up hill and closed the shut off for the weekend.After the weekend was over, I opened the shut off and it fired right up. Went back the next weekend and parked the truck the same way but didnt use the shut off, and couldnt fire up the truck even after bleeding the fuel line to the FFM and t-valve. Had the truck towed by a friend next to me to the top of the hill. I turned the key and cycled the GP and it fired up. There is air getting in the line somewhere, I dont see any leaks but that doesnt mean its there. Going to relocate the FFM and run all new lines today and see if there is any change. I hope you Found your issue. I know first hand how frustrating it can be.
 

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