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6.5 grounds

I used stainless steel carraige bolts... The key is to have threads long enough to thread a nut up there, then the contact is from the NUT squeezing in. You aren't relying on that easily strippable stock design.
 
I never thought of those. They would be easier to work with than the Allen screws I've been using. I also use a special sized washer that fits inside the rubber of the side post connector. It takes 3 washers per connector to make the 3/8 nut easily accessible by wrench.

racedaymechanic said:
Old Header bolts work great
Click to expand...

I add grounds as I go. I use 10 ga black stranded wire. I learned a long time ago to use the proper colored wires for the application. When I was younger and doing a project i would be positive that I would remember What I had done. 25 years later I have to trace the wires back because I don't remember and the color tells me nothing.

I run a ground from the battery to the ground studs at the back of the intake. I've seen the studs themselves lose contact several times. Running the extra wire limits the possible problem to losing contact between the eyelets. Always use your https://www.tessco.com/products/displayProductInfo.do?sku=437469&eventPage=1 Kopr-Shield.

I also run a ground to the battery box bolt on the passenger side. It's necessary to remove the battery to do this. While I have the battery out, I always sprinkle baking powder on the bottom of the battery box.
I have had the cheesy little screw to the inner fender strip out or lose contact on several vehicles

I continue this ground from the battery box to the ground on the frame by the starter. I do not cut the wire. I strip a spot, fold it over and stick it in the eyelet, crimp and solder it. I use a 5/16, 6 or 8 ga eyelet to accommodate the folded over 10 ga wire. I continue on to the groundson the frame by the starter.

I also add a ground from the dash mount to the blower motor ground just a few inches away. I make something to accommodate 2 spade connectors. This helps with the ground on the blower and helps out with the ground to the ECM

I have not so good pics of the added ground to the blower motor and the studs at the back of the engine. This is on a 1998 odysseys 002.jpgodysseys 001.jpgodysseys 005.jpgodysseys 007.jpgodysseys 008.jpg there were wires going to 2 studs at the back of the engine
 
My truck, the 2000 K3500 threw the P0236 code again, after a good long speel after I cleaned the terminals at the back of the engine.
I went after the grounds at the back right side of the intake manifold.
here is what I found. They were plenty durtee all right, but as I was inspecting the terminals, one of them seemed a little frail so I finished breaking it off, soldered on a new terminal. I hope that this will fix the issue. I`ll report back.
The pic does not show just how bad durtee the ring of the terminal really is.

IMG_3389.jpg
 
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