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6.2 vs 6.5 belt drive

1994ch

1994ch

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Location
South Carolina
I have a 6.2 that I am looking at rebuilding and putting in a currently 5.7 gas 96 tahoe. I am curious if it is possible to change the v belt drive pulley on the crank out for a 6.5 wide belt so I can use the accessories already it the tahoe (ac, alternator, steering pump, etc) Also will be planning on putting a turbo on it. It is my understanding that a 6.5 intake and exhaust manifold will bolt on correct? I also know I will need the brake booster, and either a manual trans or a trans controller... anything else big that I am missing? Thanks.
 
yes it is 4X4.... the 6.2 does have a big vertical oil filter now that I think about it... so is the 6.2 oil pan bigger than the 6.5? I had assumed it would fit cause I know they made 6.5 tahoes.
 
Well it seems to be easier to get the accessories of the 6.5 engines (found a self serve junk yard with two of them) so I could get everything I need fairly easy as opposed to trying to dig up something for an older 6.2. it would be nice if the AC compressor would work that I already have in the tahoe. Which ever way I go I need to get a new crank pulley so I was wondering if anyone had every heard of putting a 6.5 pulley on it instead of the 6.2 V belt style.
 
it is the same as far as crank bolt.
acc mounting locations might not be present in the 6.2 heads depending on age.
will need a hydroboost brake system.
 
What's the cost of this vs. buying a 6.5 Tahoe used? Emissions, you may not care, will limit your resale ability period.

The 6.2 and 6.5 have nearly the same bolt holes differing only in oil cooler line size. (I have swapped as far back as 1985 6.2's heads and all to 1993/1995 6.5 serp drive with all 6.5 bolts and brackets) Throw whatever belt drive you want on it making sure you get all the brackets - there is a setup for sale on here (link) now. IMO the wide belts the 6.2 V belt drives used are not available anymore and new v-belts stretch out quick. (YUCK!!!)

The PS pump needs the proper diesel relief valve if there is even a difference. Variable assist if equipped needs to go out the window even if diesel equipped OEM due to being a PIA. Diesel tach's, if you are changing the cluster, require a larger alternator pulley.

Wiring harness, ECM, transmission, transmission control... Just getting the speedometer and cruise working will be fun. Air bag, ABS, etc, etc. More weight in the front mean you have to crank up the torsion bars - really have the wrong ones in there for the diesel weight so ride suffers as you are out of the sweet spot they were designed for weight wise.

Add a second battery and slow down the alternator appears dumb... IMO it's done because the diesel vibrations snap off alternator mounts and/or split alternators in half now. So slowing them down reduces the speed up slow down multiplied vibration from the engine on them. The faster you drive the alternator the more stress slowing down and speeding up has on it and it's mounts. Each compression and power stroke on a 21:1 compression diesel is an exciting slow down and explosion speed up at idle...
 
The more I look at it you are right about it being more cost effective to buy a 6.5 tahoe. Two reasons I am still thinking about doing this swap 1: fun project/challenge (got to put that in writing cause I'm sure if I go through with it there will be many points where I won't be thinking "fun") 2: Availability of a 6.5 tahoe...... I have been watching, but have not been seeing any good ones come up for sale.
 
On the no good ones for sale, I would say compared to the conversion, look for a good body. Bad engine,trans, interior is a better project than a good body and interior having to swap everything else.

Having to go with rebuilding an engine and trans is good long term because you know you'll get the mileage out of it. Rusted / crashed frame and body is all to avoid if you have time for a project.
 
Will L. said:
On the no good ones for sale, I would say compared to the conversion, look for a good body. Bad engine,trans, interior is a better project than a good body and interior having to swap everything else.

Having to go with rebuilding an engine and trans is good long term because you know you'll get the mileage out of it. Rusted / crashed frame and body is all to avoid if you have time for a project.
Click to expand...

Well I have been watching c-list and I have only found two diesel tahoes listed (searched from here in SC to Dallas, Atlanta, El Paso, Phoenix, and all their nearby areas.... one of them was wrecked, and both of them were two door and I am kinda set on a four door. I am not dead set on doing the swap yet... I want to.... but I know I will probably come out saying something like what Ferm said about his duramax swap. Not really sad I did it but would probably not do it again.
 
1994ch said:
Well I have been watching c-list and I have only found two diesel tahoes listed (searched from here in SC to Dallas, Atlanta, El Paso, Phoenix, and all their nearby areas.... one of them was wrecked, and both of them were two door and I am kinda set on a four door. I am not dead set on doing the swap yet... I want to.... but I know I will probably come out saying something like what Ferm said about his duramax swap. Not really sad I did it but would probably not do it again.
Click to expand...
They only offered the 6.5 in 2 door Tahoes unfortunately. I would have loved a 4 door but GM just didn't do it. So that may be a deciding factor for you right there. Why not get a Sub? That's what I wanted but my garage is too short for one. Tell you what though, the 2 door diesel Tahoe gets a lot of looks and questions if that interests you.
 
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