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506 which i found from ebay

Definitly the REAL DEAL GEP.Does it have the 60 degree heads for center mount turbo?
 
This far everything looks great :thumbsup: (except valve covers, oil pan and oil filter which vere got some damage)

It was last summer when i bought it, but it was $1225 including shipping in us (i had to pay more to get it shipped here, but it is different story)

It has Non turbo hummer or aka truck style heads, so it hasn't been turbocharged. Precups has square marks..
 
Nice score. At least I'm not the only one that buys stuff and doesn't look at it for a long time:thumbsup:
 
Just came back from garage measuring main bearing clearances..
1-4 was just slightly over 0,038mm and '
5 was approx 0,051mm
I used plastigage to measure those so i dont have better accuracy, but they are on tight side of limits :smile5:
 
kojo said:
Just came back from garage measuring main bearing clearances..
1-4 was just slightly over 0,038mm and '
5 was approx 0,051mm
I used plastigage to measure those so i dont have better accuracy, but they are on tight side of limits :smile5:
Click to expand...

Plastigage is actually quite accurate.
 
Yep, but it is hard to say how much clarance is exactly if it isn't exactly same wide as lines on paper.

Feels like using set of new bearings to this would be only waste of money, they won't be tighter? any other opinions?
 
Nice score. Sounds to me like that could be a good candidate to put through the paces on the dyno playin with your tunes......................:drool5:
 
For bearing journals in steam turbine, and generator bearings we measure crush of lead wire, sort of like plasti-gage (which is good), but with lead wire (fuse wire, solder could work as well) of a known diameter put the bearing caps on and torque to spec.

Then remove the bearing cap, and measure with a dial caliper or outside micrometer, the flatness of the wire after being crushed, subtract that from the original OD and you have the true clearance.

Start your wire close to expected gap 1st so if the design gap is .010 start with a .015 wire, you want it to crush flat and not mar journal/bearing, if you need larger diameter fold over and twist together so now you have approx. .030" wire (measure to confirm), and repeat the wire crush check.

I haven't tried it but plasti-gage could be used similarly, usually the flatness of the plastic vs the paper that comes with it is sufficient, just offering up the lead wire crush check as an alternative method.
 
Tim you cannot really use plastigage like we use lead wire it does not really lend itself to being removed/peeled off and then measured with calipers/mic's. Seems to me the width method is well calibrated and accurate enough for the required tolerances on this sort of application. I have often pondered screwing around with lead wire and calibrating by width in the same way.

Why would you want to go tighter you need some clearance. If the bearings look good then with figures like those there is no need to spend the money.

Tim FYI I use lead wire used for fly tying it comes in different sizes 10 - 35 thou and saves on buggering around with one size.
http://www.jsflyfishing.com/cgi-bin/item/TW-000610-0000/62000/Hareline-Lead-Wire-Spooled.html

Cheers
Nobby
 
if you have a uniformly round rod and crush it it won't matter if you measure height or width. The ratio of squish will be the same. Plastiguage is just way easier to measure the width then the height.
 
On Duetz Diesel you use lead solder ontop of the piston to check clearence to head. Head's get shimmed on them. The lead solder worked fine.
 
Ok, finally got time to work on this.. just cleaned shafts and block and was going to install crankshaft, but i noticed there is oil sqquirters in block, but bearings dont have oil holes for them, so maybe i have to put new bearings anyway.. i just checked and at least federal mogul 7370M has those holes for squirters...
 
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