whats so bad about factory dash?More Engine weight= more suspension.
Diesel tank requires return line submerged to height of pickup.
2 batteries (still 12 volt net) for starter.
If you need obd1 or2 for smog or emmisions- its a can of worms.
Required engine oil cooler
Do power steering/booster cooler also.
This engine should never be over 210, best at 195 ect. Big happy radiator. Even the factory bumper had the holes for more air. Install what you have, and be careful. Expect to upgrade ($$).
I would ditch factory dash and do all aftermarket gauges if you don’t understand how to bypass and rig factory gauges
This engine has it’s good and bad things. If you have not spent hours reading and learning, I suggest you do.
Don’t hesitate to start your own thread to hit all the details you may need to learn.
Full stop. You need to do a teardown on the engine given to you. Unlike gas engines these engines crack heads and the mains. Cheap throw away engine. You need to know if it's scrap metal before starting a project like this. Normally you can just do rings as not much else wears aside of a stretched timing chain.I pretty much had a 6.5 given to me ...
There's a bunch of 4l60e's out there with 250k still going strong. The owner and how they treat it is the biggest problem with the 4l60e.Friend of mine said the 4L60e would routinely go out at 100K miles in his 1500 Suburbans. He still can't believe I've got 220K on my 4l80e.
There was in 98 with the fuel gauge. In 98 GM changed the sender in the tank from the old 0-90 ohm to a 30-240 ohm for gassers, but even then the cluster itself stayed the same. The only other difference is the tach of ignotiin triggerred vs alternator triggerred.Sorry I was off. I was thinking there was a difference in the gasser gauges ohm range . Awesome it’ll work.