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4x4 with ignition off?

Warwagon have you ever tried to increase slippage to see what might be going on. Maybe wet the parking area and see if its doing something weird like slipping one wheel????
 
Is it the super hot Arizona temps softening the tires and letting it slip. No sympathy as its tolerable its a dry tire slipping heat.

I am starting to think its one of those mystic things like stones "crawling" in the dessert.
 
If BOTH tires were sliding, then the parking brake wouldn't help. If ONE is sliding, that means the other is rolling through the diff. The parking brake stops both from rolling. And it will cost him $0 to prove me (us) wrong.
 
I'll say it one more time: parking brake.

For clarity and helping others think Safety First while parking on a extreme grade I will explain this again. This is better known with commercial trucks and big rigs and especially accidents while loading the trailer and loosing rear wheel traction on any hill/grade due to the trailer lifting the rear of the tow vehicle. (Sometimes you need an operator in the cab holding all the brakes on while loading.)

Parking Brake was on. I adjust the rear brakes every other oil change and the parking/emergency brake works well. As the truck in also in park and looking at the flat spots on the rear tires I assure you they didn't rotate on the way down.

In the picture you see both wheels were skidding leaving rubber trails down the driveway.

Several factors at work here.
Extreme grade on the driveway shifting weight to the wheels on the downhill side. (This is the biggest factor. I suggest it's over 18%.)
New tires.
Over inflated new tires with only 2/3 of the tread touching/wearing.
High temps actually improve traction over cold tires.
Weight of the rear vs. front like pickups with a light rear end and heavy front.

My Dodge Cummins also slipped some in wet weather with new tires. It's a MT left in gear with the parking brake on.

Note if I loose inertia in reverse going up the drive way I have to go down and start again otherwise all it does is burn out. Yeah it's an extreme slope apparently beyond the design limits of vehicles.

So the solutions to the problem I have so far:

Park nose up always. (This works 100%)

Locking the front wheels that have traction. Parking brakes for front wheels are unheard of. FWD cars would have park locking the front wheels and risk jamming the park pawl.

4X4 locking the front wheels through the drive line and hope a drive shaft doesn't fall out or fail. (Big trucks do have a parking brake on the end of the transmission.)

Adding a new section of the driveway that curves and is flatter for parking.

Getting a 1992 project truck out of the garage so I can back in where it's flatter to unload.


18a.jpg
 
Managed to have a used "new style actuator" arrive at my place while cleaning up a yard that had a front diff being scrapped.

So the motor needs a 15002405 spacer included in the 88959465 wiring kit?

I have the 9.25 IFS front axle from an '04 2500HD. And planned to swap the electronic actuator over to my truck's original, thermal activated front axle.

Did the axles that came OEM with electronic actuators use the metal spacer? Or is the spacer just necessary to retrofit into the older, thermal actuator axles?

I've got the adaptor harness, but can't recall if it came with the spacer,...so wondering if I'll need to get the spacer? Or do I already have it with the intact used axle.
 
Thanks. Just found a Youtube video on replacing the actuator on a GMT800 - both original & replacement actuators looked like they didn't have that spacer. Suppose it could be remaining stuck inside, but not a biggie either way, as wouldn't fit with two.

Good to know so can source the spacer & do swap directly instead of figuring it out after pulling the actuator's out.
 
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