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2005 Honda Accord Noise Confirmation Video

I can put that bearing in a vice and put a variable speed grinder to it to simulate it slamming into a clutch. See if the sound can overwhelm the grinder sound, but I doubt it. Really not the source of the problem. But the clutch disc was worn down to the rivets, so it was time. It is much quieter, but still…
 
I talked to Anaheim Gear which specializes in Manual Transmissions. They said if it goes silent when the clutch is depressed while in neutral, it’s in the transmission.

$1550 to rebuild, and they don’t pull them. They only work on the repair and rebuild of the transmission. So I have to pull it and bring it to them. Time to look up that video on pulling the subframe.

On a positive note, pretty much the entire engine and transmission have been scrubbed and pressure washed clean. I am not seeing the oil leak reappear. Just this transmission issue to deal with.
 
ak diesel driver said:
Biggest issue is supporting the car high enough. Much nicer job on a lift. Plus you might have to break open the ac if you pull it all the way out.
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www.driveaccord.net

Dropping the Sub Frame for Clutch replacement

We're in the process of replacing the clutch on my sons 2006 2.4 5 speed and have run into a roadblock. Things have gone pretty smoothly disconnecting everything up to this point but now we evidently have to remove the entire subframe to lower the engine in order to take off the tranny. How...
www.driveaccord.net www.driveaccord.net

Apparently there are 35 pages covering this in AllData. The mechanic we use in Montana has an AllData subscription. I’ll see him next week and barter firewood for a print out. He has a wood burning stove to heat his garage.
 
Just when I thought I had to remove the subframe to pull the transmission from the bottom, I find a video on pulling the transmission from the top on a V6 Accord with 6 spd manual. I traded messages with the video creator and he says I should be able to do it on the 2.4L 4 cylinder and it should be even easier because the engine is smaller. Basically same approach as last time, but need to remove additional cooling lines and harness up top. This can be done without a lift. I do have an engine hoist. 90% I’ve already done, so I get the benefit of the learning curve. I should be able to pull this in 5 to 6 hours.

 
Will L. said:
That is 100% the throughout bearing. If it is a sealed one- it got built dry. Otherwise grease it. If you already greased it- warranty time.

You could jack it up, and put in gear and let wheels spin. If the sound is still there with foot off clutch pedal then you could say inside transmission.
But since sound is only when the throughout bearing is spinning- that is the bearing you hear.
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Transmission shop called and one bearing was shot and the others were on their way. All the gears are fine, so it’s a good rebuildable unit. May be done by end of the week.

This had nothing to do with the throw out bearing.
 
Big T said:
Transmission shop called and one bearing was shot and the others were on their way. All the gears are fine, so it’s a good rebuildable unit. May be done by end of the week.

This had nothing to do with the throw out bearing.
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The throw out bearing is commonly toasted when the input bearing is gone.
Figure that input shaft starts with free play and the throw out bearing is only ridding in contact occasionally.

You mentioned being much wuieter & showed in the video that it was definitely quieter after the new throw out bearing. So don’t take it that bearing was good and the trans one was the only problem.
Having fixed that and then having some noise remaining to then find the input bearing isn’t surprising but does suck to pull things apart twice.
 
Will L. said:
The throw out bearing is commonly toasted when the input bearing is gone.
Figure that input shaft starts with free play and the throw out bearing is only ridding in contact occasionally.

You mentioned being much wuieter & showed in the video that it was definitely quieter after the new throw out bearing. So don’t take it that bearing was good and the trans one was the only problem.
Having fixed that and then having some noise remaining to then find the input bearing isn’t surprising but does suck to pull things apart twice.
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Just another challenge. It’s diversion from my day job.

Almost done with fixes and soon I can get onto restoration work.
 
Picked up the transmission yesterday. $1250 plus $100 tax for Newscum.

Replaced all the bearings and seals, gears were fine. Asked what happened and they said just age and miles (157K). I spun the input shaft before and it was sloppy and loose with some sound. Spun it afterward and it was buttery tight and silent.
 
That's interesting that the bearings had that much wear with only 157k miles. makes me wonder if the bearings in it are lubed by the gear oil in the trans or if they are sealed bearings.
 
I wondered and asked the same. Shop dismissed it as normal. I always used the specified Honda Manual Transmission oil. Honda Manual says you can use 10w30 on a temporary basis. Shop said to simply use 30w oil. I have the Honda manual transmission oil ready to go in.

Bottom line, I did not drive through it until it failed.
 
Big T said:
I’ve got the oil leaks stopped on the engine. Now this transmission fixed and this car should be good for another 150K miles, which is long enough to cover my work commute until I decide to retire.
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Sorry- you might need some new amps, and 15” speakers first so your sound system survives the commute.
 
Big T said:
I wondered and asked the same. Shop dismissed it as normal. I always used the specified Honda Manual Transmission oil. Honda Manual says you can use 10w30 on a temporary basis. Shop said to simply use 30w oil. I have the Honda manual transmission oil ready to go in.

Bottom line, I did not drive through it until it failed.
Click to expand...
Makes Me wonder about the oil viscosity.
If that is a lubed bearing.
There is a reason that GM went from suggesting 10-W30 oil to 5-W30 oil.
The 10 was too stiff on cool/cold mornings and GM was replacing a lot of engines due to rod/main bearing failure.
The oil pump it seemed was unable to pump the 10 to the bearings fast enough on cold starts and a lot of bearing failure was the result.
 
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