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2005 Honda Accord Noise Confirmation Video

Big T

Big T

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Over in the “What did you do on your GMT-400 Today” thread, I mentioned that I had fixed an oil leak, but was chasing down a noise. While sitting with it running, I noted the rattle noise and also noted it disappearing every time I depressed the clutch. I don’t feel anything in the clutch, but I’m think this is from the throw-out bearing.

So with the help of my son, I took a video:

What do you all think?
 
Here’s a video of the current state after replacing flywheel, clutch and throw-out bearding:


Notice the difference in sound when the clutch is depressed. This points towards the transmission. Probably a bearing and/or synchro gear going out. There is a a shop nearby in Anaheim that specializes in Manual Transmissions and Transfer Cases. Had them rebuild the 3 spd manual in the ‘73 Ford Bronco years ago and it’s still going strong. I’ll check what their turnaround time is. I will pull and deliver it to them. I don’t believe this is urgent given my short commute. Need to do this after dealing with wife and her knee surgery. Probably convince her to leave the 2014 4Runner down here with me.
 
That is 100% the throughout bearing. If it is a sealed one- it got built dry. Otherwise grease it. If you already greased it- warranty time.

You could jack it up, and put in gear and let wheels spin. If the sound is still there with foot off clutch pedal then you could say inside transmission.
But since sound is only when the throughout bearing is spinning- that is the bearing you hear.
 
Will L. said:
That is 100% the throughout bearing. If it is a sealed one- it got built dry. Otherwise grease it. If you already greased it- warranty time.

You could jack it up, and put in gear and let wheels spin. If the sound is still there with foot off clutch pedal then you could say inside transmission.
But since sound is only when the throughout bearing is spinning- that is the bearing you hear.
Click to expand...
Brand new bearing. In addition to that sound, when I downshift into 1st, clutch still depressed, you can hear it buzz down.
 
I understand.
New parts does not mean good parts. Aggravating for sure- but is what it is.


Is it a sealed bearing? Usually import 4 bangers are.
Verify that is your source- I don’t wager often but would bet a burger on that one.
If it is sealed and you don’t care about the $20 warranty value- this is where the greasing needle come into play. The drawback is the needle hole will loose grease you add in and you will have to grease through that hole a few times before replacing the clutch next go around.
Otherwise it becomes do all the labor and see how hard the parts supplier laughs when you ask for labor restitution besides just the new part.
 
Will L. said:
I understand.
New parts does not mean good parts. Aggravating for sure- but is what it is.


Is it a sealed bearing? Usually import 4 bangers are.
Verify that is your source- I don’t wager often but would bet a burger on that one.
If it is sealed and you don’t care about the $20 warranty value- this is where the greasing needle come into play. The drawback is the needle hole will loose grease you add in and you will have to grease through that hole a few times before replacing the clutch next go around.
Otherwise it becomes do all the labor and see how hard the parts supplier laughs when you ask for labor restitution besides just the new part.
Click to expand...
Sealed bearing. Manufactured by Sachs. Clutch manufactured by Valeo.
 
Big T said:
Sealed bearing. Manufactured by Sachs. Clutch manufactured by Valeo.
Click to expand...
Found this on an Accord forum:

“As another test, have the engine idling, with the transmission in neutral, & the clutch pedal NOT pressed down. Then suddenly & quickly press the clutch pedal all the way down. The transmission shaft has some momentum, & you'll hear it coast to a stop over a coupleseconds. A noisy TO bearing would get quiet immediately.”

This is as I described in the downshift to 1st. Transmission has momentum from being in second and you can hear it buzz down.
 
Search Sach new parts failure and you will find multiple hits.

Put it in neutral- start and let clutch out. If the noise is when foot off clutch pedal- then transmission bearing.
If noise only happens when stepping on clutch pedal- it is the through out bearing.
 
Will L. said:
Search Sach new parts failure and you will find multiple hits.

Put it in neutral- start and let clutch out. If the noise is when foot off clutch pedal- then transmission bearing.
If noise only happens when stepping on clutch pedal- it is the through out bearing.
Click to expand...
It is the exact opposite when the sound is happening.
 
Big T said:
Here’s a video of the current state after replacing flywheel, clutch and throw-out bearding:


Notice the difference in sound when the clutch is depressed. This points towards the transmission. Probably a bearing and/or synchro gear going out. There is a a shop nearby in Anaheim that specializes in Manual Transmissions and Transfer Cases. Had them rebuild the 3 spd manual in the ‘73 Ford Bronco years ago and it’s still going strong. I’ll check what their turnaround time is. I will pull and deliver it to them. I don’t believe this is urgent given my short commute. Need to do this after dealing with wife and her knee surgery. Probably convince her to leave the 2014 4Runner down here with me.
Click to expand...
Might check and see what they charge for removal and installation.
One place only charged me $200 for the Suburban
 
jrsavoie said:
Might check and see what they charge for removal and installation.
One place only charged me $200 for the Suburban
Click to expand...
I just did removal and installl, so I’m down that learning curve. It’s a 10 hour book job, so easily $1500 on top of the rebuild. And the f’n car is worth about $3,500.
 
jrsavoie said:
Apparently the shop I used didn't charge book time for the Suburban.
Click to expand...
It’s a different job on the Honda. The book says you need to pull the subframe to do the job. A number of YouTube videos suggest that you can slide/push out the transmission onto the subframe to create enough access to replace the clutch and do all the other work in there, which is what I did. To actually pull and remove the transmission, you have to remove the subframe.
 
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