• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

1995 K2500 - $1k Facebook Find

Got it assembled, drained a gallon or more of oil, and still no start. It hiccuped a couple times, but never started.

I think I had tried jumping the truck with the new PMd, so maybe that's fried?

Maybe fuel filter not letting enough fuel in?
 

Attachments

  • 20200329_180416.jpg
    20200329_180416.jpg
    206.3 KB · Views: 5
  • 20200329_180420.jpg
    20200329_180420.jpg
    194.5 KB · Views: 5
  • 20200329_180426.jpg
    20200329_180426.jpg
    152.3 KB · Views: 5
  • 20200329_180430.jpg
    20200329_180430.jpg
    142.3 KB · Views: 5
  • 20200329_180545.jpg
    20200329_180545.jpg
    104.2 KB · Views: 5
Ok, will do.

Also, while I was cranking, the oil cap was off and there was significant puffs coming out.

I had also opened up the filter vent and tried to see if there was fuel in it, and fluid started pushing out, so I believe the filter housing was full.
 
The "puffs" coming out of the oil fill is NOT a good sign. That is compression (see my post above, @treegump, about cylinder wash down from bad injector(s), cylinder wear and blow by) blow by past the rings. You keep describing how, on several attempts, the engine seems to try to "catch" but not fire off. I am going to go so far as to say that what you think is the engine trying to fire is instead the engine hitting the cylinder(s) that have (more) normal compression than the others as you're cranking it over.

Again, before you start throwing money/time/labor at this critter, remember the three things you need for a diesel to run, 1) Fuel (you seem to have plenty and it is getting to the injectors, whether the injectors are any good and they are spraying, not pissing, is another issue in itself) 2) Air 3) COMPRESSION!!!

Pull all eight glow plugs, get a DIESEL compression tester (gauge goes to at least 400 psi) with an adapter for the glow plug holes. Do NOT put any oil into the cylinders when testing the compression! You should have a "normal" reading of about 325 psi per hole with no more than about 25 psi variance between the high and low cylinders with a healthy engine.

Cylinders below about 230 psi won't make enough compression to fire off on their own when cranking it over and indicate either very worn rings/cylinders or valve(s) not seating and sealing.

Before you start chasing rabbits down holes, you MUST have all three for a diesel to start/run, fuel, air and compression.

You may be discovering why this was such a cheap find. The PO had worn out injectors in it, they washed down the cylinder walls, compression went bye-bye, beastie wouldn't start, PO threw some money at it in diagnosis/parts, still wouldn't start/run, PO decided to dump it on Craig's List and make it someone else's headache/money pit.
 
@Husker6.5 - Probably right. That would explain why when it started when I first got it, it ran so rough. It was probably not running on all 8 cylinders.

@Will L. - I'll also try yours as well.

Thank you all for all your assistance. I know it can be frustrating when a guy just doesn't seem to listen, but I was hopeful.

Do you have a recommendation on a compression tester? I used to have one somewhere, but it had no adapters. I'd like to stay below $150, if that's possible.

My wife was asking me if I was stressed or anxious last night because I had a migraine after working on this truck - And I'm wondering if it's because I purchased a $1k paperweight, haha. (I can either laugh or cry.) - but definitely not my worst investment, unfortunately..
 
If the engine turns out to be toast and

If the ttuck is in good condition you may be able to salvage it with a used engine. I've seen decent 6.5s for as little as $500. Mostly state trucks. Maybe keep an eye on government auction sites
 
Oriellys might have a diesel compression tester You can borrow.
If compression is bad on any or all cylinders. You could try changing the oil, then, give each cylinder a few squirts of oil, before installing glow plugs, then crank the engine over a dozen or more times to get rid of access oil, rerun comp test and see where the numbers are at, then, install GPs and retry starting the engine. Might be able to gain enough comp to get it to start.
By cranking over the engine, after adding oil to the cylinders, then running another comp test should get rid of enough of the excessive oil to prevent a run away if it would start. Might want to have the intake manifold back on and be ready to slam a piece of plywood over the intake hole for the just in case.
 
@jrsavoie - I considered maybe even doing an engine transplant, but I'm afraid that might be not as worth it, since I don't know how good the transmission is either.

@MrMarty51 - I hadn't considered a rental tool, but I'll look into that. I figured a compression tester probably would be a useful tool to keep handy and this would be a prime reason to purchase one. (been eyeing part number "Tiger Tool 10105" but been putting it off also, haha)

Even if I did an oil drain, refill, and lubricate - wouldn't the compression go back to the sour numbers after a few runs?
 
Maybe not quite as bad on compression, if the oil that is in it now is fuel contaminated.
I once bough an old C10 real cheap because the oil and cylinders was washed down real bad with gasoline, engine would not even fire it was so bad. Fuel pump, carb kit, fresh oil, few squirts down the plug holes, fired it up, talk about smoke. LOL
That engine would use a quart of oil in 25 miles. I kept adding new oil to it. The state was using a recycled oil at the time and changing oil every 1000 miles. I started saving the oil and using it in that old 292 six, after several quarts, it totally died up and quit using oil. I once thought it needed a treat and changed the oil with new oil, right back to a quart every 25, dumped used oil in it and dried it up once again. LOL
 
Do NOT put ANY oil into the cylinders when doing a compression test! That DEFEATS the whole purpose of doing a compression test! You want to see which cylinder(s) are having ring sealing issues and you can NOT accurately tell which one(s) are bad if you've sealed the compression leak with oil in the cylinder!

Think of it like this: Would you put Fix-A-Flat in a tire with a slow leak, drive it for a bit, THEN try to see if you can find that slow leak to repair it? No, that would defeat the whole purpose of finding and repairing the leak, now wouldn't it?

Check compression with "dry" cylinders to see if any of them are low.

Do NOT use an automotive compression tester, they can NOT handle the compression pressures of a diesel, you WILL ruin the compression tester!
You MUST use a diesel-specific compression tester. PERIOD! Why? Because a healthy 10:1 compression gasser will make about 150-155 psi (gauges on gasser compression testers usually go to 180-200 psi max). A 22:1 compression IDI diesel will make about 330 psi when healthy! If you want to dig the shrapnel out of your face and body when the gasser tester/gauge explodes trying to do a diesel with it, be my guest!

If you rent one from your local auto parts store, make SURE it is diesel rated.
 
@Husker6.5 - From my understanding - @MrMarty51 was suggesting to add the oil to the cylinders ONLY after I do the initial compression test. I did not take his advice to counter yours, but to extend past your suggestion - if/when I find low compression and decide I'm done sinking money into a busted motor.

Also - I wasn't planning on purchasing or renting a lesser pressured gauge. Also - there are a lot of diesel gauge choices out there ranging from $30 (harbor freight guess) to $$$$, and that is why I asked about a recommendation on a gauge.

I have worked on enough stuff to know that sometimes it's best to ask for recommendations before purchasing. (If time allows.)
 
Yes 400 psi.
Doing a wet test after a dry test is only done to see if you have to pull the block, of can get away with pulling heads only.

wet test diesel by cycling after spray and before installing gauge Is still unsafe- don’t hold the gauge if you ever do it. It’s risk like using starting fluid in a idi engine.

a leakdown test is safer but doesn’t always tell you what’s happening. Very rarely do I recommend it.
 
treegump said:
@jrsavoie - I considered maybe even doing an engine transplant, but I'm afraid that might be not as worth it, since I don't know how good the transmission is either.

@MrMarty51 - I hadn't considered a rental tool, but I'll look into that. I figured a compression tester probably would be a useful tool to keep handy and this would be a prime reason to purchase one. (been eyeing part number "Tiger Tool 10105" but been putting it off also, haha)

Even if I did an oil drain, refill, and lubricate - wouldn't the compression go back to the sour numbers after a few runs?
Click to expand...
If you find a donor it may even come with a trans. I bought a neighbors wreck several years ago. It was T boned hard. But would still move in front wheel drive. The rear drive shaft was off. Might have sold it to somebody from here. Don't remember.
 
Just a heads up - I've posted the truck up for sale/trade for $1500 or whatever catches my eye.

I've started a thread on the farming group about some potential trades - but a guy with 2 AC B's is rather promising.

I'll continue working on this truck as I have time, while I have it - but it's at the low-middle of my project list, so probably won't get to it quickly.

However - I'm thankful for the next steps that have been recommended, just in case I am able to work on it some more.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top