1994 Flair 32HD Motorhome

[lrpierce]

Hello, Just recently purchased a 1994 Flair motorhome, 32hd, with a 6.5 diesel engine. I will probably regret it, but I like it, and so does my wife. I'm an old VW bus guy and this thing is like a 32 foot VW bus. I think the Oshkosh chassis sticker shows the chassis to be a 1993, although the VIN says 94. My first question is how do I know which version of the 6.5 this is? According to the VIN decoder site it is an L6, 6.5L 190HP. Of course, I received no manuals or anything with it. How do I identify which engine this is, as there seem to have been a big difference between the 93 and 94 engines. I drove about 230 miles home from the dealer and it ran great, no smoke, gauges all normal but it is very underpowered. I know 190 horses won't do a lot, and maybe at 15000 lbs it is doing all it can, but what can I check to make sure all is working? I haven't had a chance to do anything yet, but I'm sure I can find all the resources I need right here just as soon as I figure out what I am looking for Thanks all, Les.

 

[WarWagon]

Welcome!

Regret would be like this:
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/6-5l-td-motorhome-repair-repower.42729/

Snap a picture of your engine and especially the Injection Pump on the front of the engine. 1993 is mechanical and 1994 has the troublesome PMD. EPA made the emissions rules so if it is a Vin 1994 after Jan 1, 1994 (1994.5) it should have a PMD. Prior to Jan 1st it could be a 1993 setup for 1994 MY.

Plenty of ways to make power here starting with getting rid of the asthma attack factory turbo that is sucking your MPG down.
http://www.maxxtorque.com/2012/07/the-65l-diesel-factory-equipped-asthma.html

 

[lrpierce]

Welcome!

Regret would be like this:
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/6-5l-td-motorhome-repair-repower.42729/

Snap a picture of your engine and especially the Injection Pump on the front of the engine. 1993 is mechanical and 1994 has the troublesome PMD. EPA made the emissions rules so if it is a Vin 1994 after Jan 1, 1994 (1994.5) it should have a PMD. Prior to Jan 1st it could be a 1993 setup for 1994 MY.

Plenty of ways to make power here starting with getting rid of the asthma attack factory turbo that is sucking your MPG down.
http://www.maxxtorque.com/2012/07/the-65l-diesel-factory-equipped-asthma.html

Thanks, I have been reading that first post. That and many others before I bought the thing. Almost scared me off, but not quite. Where can I find a quick primer on posting pics?

 

[WarWagon]

With the power and MPG you can get with mods to the 6.5 that hardly no one knows about you got a good price I bet. Of course they aren't a Industrial engine like the Cummins, but, they don't have the parts price tag the Cummins has. Keeping ECT in mind they do ok.

Use "upload a file". Then browse on second screen. You may need some posts before you can upload pictures.

 

[Will L.]

Welcome
WarWagon started you in the right direction.

 

[BIGR]

Welcome to The Truck Stop. Looks like these guys have already provided you with some valuable information.

 

[btfarm]

Welcome to the The Truck Stop Les!

 

[Burning oil]

An easy way to know if you have a mechanical IP is to look at your throttle pedal. If it has a cable running to IP its a mechanical IP. If you have a wire connector (known as an APPS) it has a electronic IP.

Welcome.

 

[lrpierce]

Thanks all. I called the dealer and found the manuals, so that was good. I am going to post some pictures of the engine from the bottom up as well as down through the access door. Is there an easy way to check the turbo? Where would I hook up a gauge. Anyway, thanks everyone.

Just wanted to add that the fan does not appear to use a clutch and is solid, even though the Oshkosh manual shows a place to add hydraulic fluid for the fan.

 

[WarWagon]

Fan is likely a hydraulic on/off unit.

That's a 1993 engine setup with no PMD to F up. Mechanical Injection all it needs is +12v at the solenoid. If you get it started it will run till it's out of fuel or the engine blows up. (Done both. )

So start with an A Team Turbo and make sure the exhaust is 4" all the way back. (Better MPG that will pay for the turbo w/o selling the old turbo.) Then 1/4 to 1/2 turn on the pump to use the extra power a better turbo has.

 

[lrpierce]

Thanks, WarWagon. I'll check into a new turbo and the exhaust upgrade. Pardon my ignorance, but 1/4 to 1/2 inch turn on which pump. I'll keep cruising the net and learning what I can. Just watched a video from LeroyDiesel.com demonstrating the bolt for taping into the turbo inlet. I'll learn

 

[WarWagon]

Turn up Injection pump for more fuel:

http://www.flashoffroad.com/Diesel/injectionpump/mechanicalpump.htm

Two ways to go about it. Through the side is the safest. Through the top you need to make sure the pump clicks and is not jammed wide open by misassembling the throttle stop.

 

[Will L.]

Couple questions. Going down the highway at speed, what is your rpm, and what temperature is the coolant?

 

[Burning oil]

Link for you to refer back to if needed http://leroydiesel.com/product-category/accessories/

One of the pics looks like a brand new exhaust bolt? I would remove it and get some antiseeze on the threads.

 

[lrpierce]

Couple questions. Going down the highway at speed, what is your rpm, and what temperature is the coolant?

When it shifted into "passing" gear, RPM would go slightly above 3000 and top out. Once it was on the decline it shifted back to around 2200, if I remember right, which was around 55 or 60 mph. It only has the factory temperature gauge and it stayed about center of the gauge. Always in the green zone. I am definitely going to put a boost pressure, coolant temp and exhaust temp gauges on there when I can. Previous owner had some exhaust work done. I seriously think the turbo does not work as you have to put the accelerator pedal to the floor to take off from a start and keep it there to barely keep up with the traffic. Like I said, I don't expect a lot of power and if that's the way it is, I can live with it. Don't bother me.

 

[lrpierce]

This engine has around 78,000 miles on it, and this makes me hesitate on HP mods putting too much strain on these old engine components. My main concern right now is to make sure it is behaving as designed and then tweak it. Thanks guys, much appreciated. Les

 

[WarWagon]

78,000 is low miles. (Most of the stuff on here is 200K or so. Least my stuff is.) Get the restrictive turbo off there so it can pull hard to redline and not fight / strain to get the hot exhaust gas out of the engine. The engine won't work as hard and thus will last longer. Don't turn up the fuel if you don't want to add strain and you will still have more power and MPG.

As you noticed anything over 2200 RPM the engine falls over. From factory turbo restriction more than the IP fuel delivery drop off.

These engines are good till overheated or average 200K where the HG's pop. Some reach 300K+. Overheating is anything over 210 ECT. The castings/block/head crack. Over 230 and the ring tension goes away causing instant blowby.

 

[Will L.]

Get the gauges on there asap. WarWagon is on the money. Don't take lack of a bunch of other responses as no one is hearing you, it's that his responses are perfect for you. Changing the turbo and exhaust will increase acceleration, improve top end power, increase mpg, and extend engine life.
Upgrading to a newer water pump that balances the flow between heads better (GM old design was poor) is one of the few things for you to look at currently.

Inspect the harmonic balanced for cracking rubber or the outside weight shifting out of position, that is an engine killer, your miles are low enough it should be ok, but time damages rubber.

There are a few little modifications that will help you out in the future: ops relay, clear ip return line, Oil cooler line replacement, etc. but your not in bad shape by the sounds of it.

 

[lrpierce]

Thanks again, all. I am feeling better about my purchase all the time. For future reference, what is the name usually used to reference this particular engine? BTW, my birthday's tomorrow. Hope I get a new Turbo!

 

[Will L.]

Happy birthday!