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'13 needs brakes

tanman_2006

tanman_2006

Just a farm kid...
Messages
5,694
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Location
Seiling, Oklahoma
I know the truck has higher hours and low average speed so I'm surprised they are squeaking, just glad they aren't warped lol.

On rockauto they have raybestos ATD 1411c ceramic in their fleet/towing section, highest quality available raybestos. Now what concerns me, says the pads can fit front and rear (insert mind blown smiley). Is this true or is the rock pulling my leg?
 
I would look for semi-metallic vs. ceramic (Yuck!).
 
Used ceramic on my 06 with good luck and long life.

How is rotor/pad life with semi metallic? I assume they bite harder than a ceramic?

Semi metallic is actually listed as a grade down from ceramic by price and listing.
 
Wagner Quiet Stop is what I have been using. Raybestos is also very good. The Ceramic - Semi metallic info is here and in depth posting below that. Sure the newer stuff has way better brakes, but, even the 2008 Duramax we had would give us some brake noise on the grapevine when pushed hard. Not sure what the factory puts on them.

I fail to understand the marketing on ceramics as they simply don't stop as well as Semi Metallic.

http://www.hendonpub.com/resources/article_archive/results/details?id=1569

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/th...-parts-for-gmt-400-88-00-obs-and-94-99-dodge-
2500-3500.44950/#post-513153
 
They don't have a quiet stop semi metallic Wagner. Just quick stop semi metallic.

They only have one set of semi metallic raybestos for the '13
 
Ceramics are generally a little quieter and less dust, which markets well, due to keeping wheels clean and being quiet, and to be honest, most people never push their brakes to the point where they'd need/notice the difference...
 
I'm typically on flat ground and leave myself plenty of time to engine brake down to 30-40mph. I may tow heavy but I'm not in the mountains. My 06's brakes made it to 250k miles.
 
The ceramics are harder and give a longer life. Problem is it is worse on the rotors and more likely to warp them.
 
GM switched to ceramics starting in 99 with the new body style trucks. They are known to last over 100K miles, so why switch. For a truck that came with semi metalics, or if you tow extreme, sure go with semi metalics. Otherwise go with what came stock. For the newer trucks I run cerqamics on them all. Only time I reccomend semi metalics for the new style trucks is if they tow overweight ALL the time, or push them hard ALL the time.

I like the RAYBESTOS advanced technology pads myself. I also see ACDELCO lists teh same pads for frotn and rear if you go with there durastops.
 
300 k? Yowza! Factory rotors?
The new truck rotors are harder metal than the old ones. You can tell the new ones when you cut them on the lathe.
I'm thinking that's why, to handle the ceramic pads better. I'm not familiar with the 800 trucks warping and heating rotors, afaik it was the gmt 400 doing that. I should have been more clear.

If you are running hiway mileage after the hard braking it will cool the rotor good and your ok. Hard braking city traffic is what tore them up bad in our fleets. like WarWagon says- brake hard and keeping pad on rotor -adds up to me.
We ended up getting best results with factory rotors and pads. Tried a ton of combinations. But not towing heavy loads, just empty to medium loads.
 
My miles are pasture to pasture sometimes loaded sometimes just a #12k truck. Sometimes it's 20 miles of winding back roads to the next field, sometimes black top, and sometimes a mix. I always know where I'm going and scope out the rt, typically go 50-55mph and leave plenty of stopping room.
 
Oh, in other words you drive responsibly. Yeah, that does happen to many fleet trucks around here.

I was never impressed by the brakes in my truck- that is until I bought the hummer. I miss my old brakes...
 
I've always been good on brakes. Even 30 years ago with the 2wd 69 C10 I went 80k+ on shoes or 83 Scottsdale I easily went over 100k on a set of semi metallic shoes and pads.
 
It's funny, I don't remember doing brakes on our 02 Suburban, and that went to 170k (may have done pads once, I was younger then...), I know the 05 has never had brakes and our 00 K1500 with 360+k has had brakes twice, but both the '11 Suburban and my '09 Denali needed front pads around 80k. Rotors are great, just pads. It probably doesn't help that Ubering with them is lots of city driving and braking. Interesting data we collect, lol.
 
Carnage alert!

So I need at least 1 caliper and rotor, once I get done with the fronts I will check the other side. I just had all of the wheels off 6k ago.

I'm thinking of replacing both rears with slotted rotors.

Does anyone think I need a caliper bracket? What brand of caliper is recommended?
 

Attachments

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AC 1722438 left rear dual caliper no bracket listed

Raybestos DD quality 580895R rear rotor

Raybestos Long Life 580895 Coated Rotor (what kind of coating)

Cemtric 12666075SL(R) Slotted rear duals

Feel free to tell me what you think, I've never had to buy rotors.

I ordered Raybestos Ceramic Pads BTW. The old front pads were almost to the squeaker on the inners, the outers were maybe 25% so not 100% even wear.
 
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