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'13 LML K3500 Cab and Chassis

tanman_2006

tanman_2006

Just a farm kid...
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Seiling, Oklahoma
It's a '13 crew cab cab and chassis with a 9'6" bale bed. Cloth seats, power windows and locks, turn knob 4x4, steering controls, and my favorite RUBBER FLOORS!

Had 57,900 on it when I got it currently has 59,500, so far I have changed all filters, M1 in the motor, amsoil everywhere else, gets window tint and seat covers next week, floor mats need ordered, has blown front speakers, want running boards, well the list goes on.
 

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Is it an actual cab&chassis model(factory dual tanks), or just a regular 3500 that somebody took the bed off of? Guessing you will be calling Kory Willis or Tony at RIDGERUNNER for some electronic deleting.
 
It's a dual tank narrow rear C&C

I'll get it set up exactly how I want and milk the warranty for bit before I delete but I don't expect to make 70k lol

My lbz would have drug this pig to the moon and back the way it sits, I don't run over 2500rpm enough to feel the extra power
 

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Haven't done the figures but I know its high hrs and bad mpg
 

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My 06 started at 8mph average, the time I had it was 41mph average. Not that worried since it had all service records from the dealer I bought it from. All filters changed 3k or sooner
 
Got a question and I'm pretty sure I already know the answer but I'll ask anyways

Does anyone think it would be beneficial to add a by pass oil filter to a Duramax? For the most part my lbz had decent oil life over 10k miles, up to 20k at times (winter with less/lighter towing). How long do you think oil change intervals can be stretched on a Duramax stock and deleted
 
If you keep it emissions intact, then by all means add a bypass filter as it sure can't hurt when dealing with the added soot loading of the oil. I go 10K miles on mine between oil changes, but I run 5W40 oil, so it is probably overkill. I do alot of short drives at times, so I'd rather play it safe than sorry.
 
I run 5/40 Mobil in my Duramax's with wix xp filters. Does great from what I can tell.

This truck won't be stock for that long. It will very likely be deleted before the next 10k oil change.
 
I run a FS2500 bypass oil filter. I have since it was almost new. One of the first mods that I did, along with the Nicktane setup in the rear.
I personally like having a bypass oil filter. The only way to explain it is the oil still gets black, but when you rub it between your fingers, it feels like smooth honey. No grit in the oil. I did the same without the bypass filter, as I kept about 1 quart of the used drain oil prior to the install of the bypass filter for comparison. You can feel the soot in your fingers when you rubbed them together with a little oil. I didn't like that, hence the bypass oil filter was installed. I only change my oil once a year, every June. I run Mobil Syn 5W-40. I get my oil tested yearly by Blackstone Labs. I do about 14K or so a year. My UOA's always come back stating that I could go another 6K. But I just change the oil and do all of my maintenance once a year. I do check all fluids, etc every so often, but just do the major stuff once a year.
That also includes my fuel filters. I have the Nicktane setup in both the rear and where the OEM filter was. I like running the CAT spin
-ons. They have a really good filter media in my opinion. Also much easier to change.
I personally feel much better with the extra added filters. Piece of mind.
 
Last edited:
Will L. said:
Yowza, what's in those super sacks?
Click to expand...

That's rye seed. 2500# per tote.

I have 30 totes to get for that planting customer. Last year I pulled 14 per load behind the LBZ. It wasn't on the bump stops but the stock LML was after 10, might need to shop for heavier leafs lol.
 
Last edited:
RI Chevy Silveradoman said:
I run a FS2500 bypass oil filter. I have since it was almost new. One of the first mods that I did, along with the Nicktane setup in the rear.
I personally like having a bypass oil filter. The only way to explain it is the oil still gets black, but when you rub it between your fingers, it feels like smooth honey. No grit in the oil. I did the same without the bypass filter, as I kept about 1 quart of the used drain oil prior to the install of the bypass filter for comparison. You can feel the soot in your fingers when you rubbed them together with a little oil. I didn't like that, hence the bypass oil filter was installed. I only change my oil once a year, every June. I run Mobil Syn 5W-40. I get my oil tested yearly by Blackstone Labs. I do about 14K or so a year. My UOA's always come back stating that I could go another 6K. But I just change the oil and do all of my maintenance once a year. I do check all fluids, etc every so often, but just do the major stuff once a year.
That also includes my fuel filters. I have the Nicktane setup in both the rear and where the OEM filter was. I like running the CAT spin
-ons. They have a really good filter media in my opinion. Also much easier to change.
I personally feel much better with the extra added filters. Piece of mind.
Click to expand...

I have a nicktane adapter for the engine (from my lbz) but its a pita changing the filter on an LML, gotta pull the fender liner. Also have the wix kit that Leroy sells that will be mounted pre lift pump when I get a chance to take it in while I'm not using it hard.
 
They packed crap above the filter manager. I couldn't find a good way to get my hands in and only wear MED gloves and once I did I had very little leverage and couldn't fish the filter out from above.

I'm thinking either a door in the liner or Relocate to the frame
 
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